Spence

Found this, using a search term of "alphabet conchos" http://www.sbearstradingpost.com/conchos.html#alphabet I was looking for them too.

My rule of thumb over the years, with both rope and now leather, is a 7:1 ratio. I did find, however, that I needed 9 or 10:1 when I was doing a double-loop edge lacing. Sure, you're going to have leftovers, but I usually have enough for any cover knots on my braided items and I never throw anything away (sadly), so I can use the scraps for fillers on bite tugs for my munchers.

I'd have to say less than $20.

Although they are located here in the US, the prices and customer service are excellent. AND, you don't have to buy huge quantities. http://www.cdwplus.com/index.html Can't help you with the rolled leather. I've been doing the braiding for years and recently started on flats. g'luck

I've found that when it comes time to "flair" the posts, I use an appropriately sized Phillips head screwdriver to get the post to split properly. Once the post starts to "flair," I then use the setting tool designed for the job. Works every time, for me. Patience and light tapping is the key.

One place I know of is www.murphywhips.com in Australia I'm sure there are other sources, but I've always dealt with these folks. Great customer services and the prices are right.

Esson, if you've got an REI store near you, pick up some NIKWAX. I've used a homemade soap and it tears up my finger tips. I've heard an old-timer in Australia talk about using regular hand lotion also. Main thing is to keep the thongs supple and they will slide into place easier. I don't wash them - only for fear of having the core rot out - but I do rub them down good after I've rolled them. g'luck and take your time.

The stitching awl has been in my rope kit for about 40+ years. Invaluable when working with canvas. Almost useless with leather. Only because if a stitch is worn through or broken, the whole thing is gonna come undone. A saddle stitch, with 2 needles and a sewing awl is the best way to work with leather. There are other stitches to use, but this is the easiest and fastest - IMHO.

I agree with both replies and I'd like to add that I back braid under at least 3 strands. I saw a lady hook up a cute little 'roo show lead to her 110 lb GSD and before the dog's hind legs cleared the crate, the lead had failed at BOTH ends. I've towed my pickup using a 4 strand 'roo showlead with a para chord core. g'luck

I've been using the Australian Strander, but the inventor's son has come up with something that a lot of people in Australia and beyond, are raving about. The price is right and he also makes a hand stripper also. The neat thing about his strander is that you just feed the hide in without struggling to feed a pre-cut tip into the space between the "fence" and the blade. I'm about to order both. Send these folks an email and they will promptly answer with pictures if you ask. Dene & Maureen Williams The prices are AUD$105 plus postage of at least AUD$15. denewhips@bigpond.com

I agree about keeping tension with both hands while braiding. In-hand braiding of any more than 4 strands is not recommended. No matter how many strands I'm using, I'm only tightening the strand I am working with at that particular time. You'll find your work will go faster and finer. Make sure your core is of a proper diameter to support that many strands. And, as stated before, practice, practice, practice. I've been braiding rope and leather for 50 years and that still holds true. g'luck

I've been braiding leather for about two years now, but have about 50 years doing fancy ropework. I also breed and train German Shepherds so most of my braiding goes into leads and collars. I'm learning to love working with kangaroo leather, but want to branch out into doing flatwork in calfhide, etc., etc. So, in a nutshell, I'm here to learn and so far, in just a few hours, I've sure learned quite a bit. Thank you