DanaStanley

Yest there is the kit that fits Sailrite fits this! Its wheels and a belt. Contact Us (sailrite.com) Maybe this Speed Reduction Pulley for Ultrafeed® & Leatherwork® (sailrite.com)

It will do upholstery just fine without a servo motor, just break it in good like they tell you to do. I returned mine to original and put the servo on a Juki DDL8700 H.

In the end although it would have cost twice as much, I should have gone with something like the Consew 206rb-5. I only wanted a walking foot that could do thinner thread for wallets, so I could have left my machine alone too! But it will do!

So I nixed the poly belt and got a V belt with cog groves in it as the poly belt stretched too much and didn't want to stay on the cogged pully on the machine. The presser foot is a cross hatched kinda knurled on the bottom foot. Sailright has them.

Clutch Motor Pulley for Industrial Sewing Machine, Diameter 45MM (Amazon) Amazon.com: Clutch Motor Pulley for Industrial Sewing Machine, Diameter 45MM Polyurethane Belt, Green Rough Surface PU Polyurethane Round Belt for Drive Transmission (8mm x 5m) (Amazon) Polyurethane Belt, Green Rough Surface PU Polyurethane Round Belt for Drive Transmission (8mm x 5m): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Adjustable Industrial Sewing Machine T-Leg Assembly (Jacksew)Adjustable Industrial Sewing Machine T-Leg Assembly (jacksew.com) Consew CSM550-1 Sewing Machine Servo Motor, 3450RPM, 110 Volt, Quite Running - Walmart.com (WalMart Knurled Foot for Ultrafeed® LS-1 & Leatherwork® (sailrite.com)

Do you know where I can get a different stitch length adjustment plate? It is kinda hokey. It doesn't drop off evenly, and there is no way to match the forward stitch to the reverse stitch length .

looks like a serial # to me!

I just finished working on my Consew CP206RL. It was a portable machine with a built-in motor. I built a table for it, bought a stand, and servo motor now it runs great, and as slow as I want. I wanted a walking foot flatbed for occasional work, for lighter stuff wallets chaps etc. but I didn't want to spend $1500.00 on one. The machine was $450.00 table $135.00 motor $156.00 belt material $ 14.00 Smaller pully $ 10.00 Knurled walking foot $ 29.00 Plywood for table $15.00 So, $815.00. Better than $1500.00 Maybe not as great of a machine, but for what I need it will be fine. Plus, it was fun building it. The week link is the belt. The reduction pully on the machine is cogged, and the pully on the motor is a v belt type. I used a poly belt that you cut and fuse together. I did slip when I jammed up the thread, but that's probably a good thing. The machine is a Sailrite clone, they get $750.00 for one like what I bought, and 1350.00 plus shipping souped up similar to what I have now. Any comment or suggestions would be welcome! Thanks' Dana

If you are in the market for a CB 3200 call Bob at Toledo Ind! He took good care of me, even set up the table with motor and speed reducer. All I had to do is bolt it onto the machine! The pallet it came on fit exactly in the bed of my ranger. I was able to save some shipping by picking it up at the shipping depot. He was easy to deal with and answered my emails, right away. They hadn't sent some thread and needles that came with it, I emailed and had it within 2 business days! I can't say enough about Bob and his son! The 3200 seems like it will be a great machine, a lifetime investment. He also stocks needles and thread at a reasonable price. I would buy from them again.

So, my CB3200 is on the truck and on the way. Now I need to find a good brand and supplier for thread and needles! Bob from Toledo has A brand made for him under the Cowboy label, I am trying it out, and may be best to just get thread and needles from him. I would however, like to know what else is available. A good thread seems important, and I'm not sure what to look for. Pretty sure I want to stick with bonded nylon! I have some in 138 and 92. Just want to stock tan and black for now. Until I get going. I have, I believe 277 coming with the machine. I want to make Bags/pouches/vests/chaps/wallets/holsters. I do want to use light to medium weight veg-tan 2-9 or 10 oz and some chrome for chap's vests bags and wallets. So, any insight into thread for my needs would be great.

Kinda rough, but amazing how a little stamping can go a long way!

Did you build the outer shell, then build and slip the inner padding part in then stitch it in place around the top? Also did you build the outer shell inside out?

I Ordered some from Zipper Stop but another one that looks promising is Ohio Travel Bag. Well organized site, tons of leather hardware and tools, as well as Zippers and zipper stuff. Whdlesale Hardware for Handbag, Leathercraft & Repair Industries (ohiotravelbag.com) The prices are very reasonable!

Well, I just took a look at Buckle Guy $44.00 for a 3' zipper RiRi! I'm gonna have to adjust my expectations! Zipper Stop on Amazon 3' $10.50 YKK. Ok so the zipper stop site has 144" $27.50 Aluminum YKK! The aluminum is good for chaps as it wont rust. Ta Daaaa That Zipper Stop has 36" #10 Aluminum (Chaps) open zippers $6.99 on their site . I spent 4 hours today looking for this!!

Thank you all for chiming in. I have been doing my homework, and watching videos, looking at manufacturer sites etc. as well as a bunch of retailers, some mentioned here. I think the closed end smaller stuff, Closed end for wallets and bags is simple. It's the open end #10 for chaps that I am having issues with. If you buy just what you need and shorten the top, no issue, but it's $10.00 per leg! If I get 5 yards, I can make them up, but installing the bottom stop and pin isn't recommended, as they use a press at the factory. I believe I can do it as I fabricate metal and can make a small press punch for my button press that would replicate what they do. For me this is the fun stuff. My main issue is the nice metal YKK zipper in a #10 doesn't seem to come in the 3- or 5-yard lengths. I can get it in plastic, but I'm not sure if that would be great for chaps! I'd be happy if I can get it down to $5.00 a leg #10 YKK metal zipper. My own self-imposed parameter! The one in my chaps has lasted 20 years. I think it's aluminum YKK 10! The best catalogue I found is from Ideal. At least it is set up in a comprehendible order, unlike any of the websites that offer zippers. Thanks again for the input! I have learned so much in the last week or so about zippers, snaps, and dies. There is a lot to this leather craft!

I want to stock a couple size zippers for bags/chaps/and wallets. I looked at different sites online and found one common thread. None of them have a simple way of selecting or finding what you need! It is all jumbled, and you need to poke around. You should be able to select size/color/finish/length/lock /no lock/alum/brass/plastic. Pulls/and various parts. I want to make custom lengths, and stock some various parts as buying at specified lengths seems much more expensive. It also limits your choices. What do you do as far as stocking zippers, and where do you buy them? What other advice can you give me about zippers. I don't want to use something that may fall apart. I have chaps I bought 20 years ago, and the zipper is still working fine!

Thanks, this info helps. I think 69 thread is what I may want to use with this for lighter 2-5 oz leather wallets and wallet compartments. Good to know I can use 135 and a 22 needle though! I have a CB3200 Cyl Arm machine on order for the heavier stuff. Thanks for the response, and thank you too Suzelle!

That's great! I wondered if I should put a servo on it down the road! I didn't see the back of the machine, how you hooked up the servo and reducer! What's the heaviest thread and needle that you use on it? That 92 you show in the pic looks sturdy enough!

Seems like I have the tension right now. 2-3 oz veg! what do you all think? I'm not the sewing expert that I want to be!

I have 5 vintage Singer machines, of which I intend to refurbish and sell. 2 are class 66, and today I got one up and running. I tried it on some chrome leather, and it worked great. I hope to use 69 or 92 thread on it, but I have a lighter upholstery thread for now (could be 69 not marked clearly)! I want to use it for lighter wallets, and wallet inner sleeves! I think the overall tension is a little tight, so I need to tinker still, but am encouraged at how well it works! The other class 66 needs rewiring but everything is moving freely! I was on a mission for about a month collecting up machines to repair over the winter, then got covid, and couldn't do much. One other a Class 115 is working fine but has no cabinet! I made a log for each one did an evaluation and got whatever parts I needed, now I just need to do some light refurbishing. It's just busy work so It may have to wait as I get busy spring through fall! From what I have read and seen on YouTube a class 66 is great for light leather projects. Does anyone here use one for wallets etc? Anyone in central Mass area interested in an old singer?

So, I am trying to tool up on the cheap. I spent a bit on a new CB3200, so I need to wait a bit to get any other tools! I made an anvil and with other scraps some blocks for reaching inside to set rivets etc.

Wondering if line 20 and 24 snaps come with different size stems for thicker material? I made a couple magazine pouches with 8-9 oz Veg tan and had to skive around the hole to get a good set on the naps! I had some snaps from Walmart and some from Amazon, and the stem lengths were different! is there a company that offers them in a different lengths? Also do you hand set or use a press?

Thank You all for chiming in! Thank you bob for the valuable info! If you e-mail me before the machine ships, we can see what else I can afford to order with it!

I have ordered a CB3200 and want to get accessories for it. The dealer I got it from seems like a nice guy and all, but $75.00 for a left side presser foot is a lot! So, looking around I found one for $43.00 by a company called Ever Nice (on E-Bay) Has anyone used their presser feet? Are they OK? Am I just being a cheap skate? $30.00 less seems like a lot of money to waste. On the other hand, if it isn't a good fit, or breaks then it would be a waste.