BlackDragon

I agree with just making one stamp with the info you need. I used leatherstampmaker.com to make my logo stamp and it works great. I think it was like $70, but it's been awhile so I dont recall exactly.

Looks great. You may want to try burnishing your edges, it'll give it a sleekery look.

Can you post a picture of the jar or name on the jar?

Ok, thanks for that. So I need to make the billet side tongue longer so it's about 1/2" shorter than the tip of the billet. Add a keeper for the billet and a keeper for the extra tongue length to stablize the whole belt. This helps a lot. Thanks!

Welcome back It looks great!

The type of leather really depends on a few factors. Chrome tan is a softer material so if you want your bag to to stand up right you would need to add a stiffener to the inside. Chrome tan comes dyed and there are a lot of colors to choose from. You would have to buy multiple pieces if you want more than one color. Veg tan comes in various animals: cow, deer, pig, sheep to name a few. Colors are usually natural, black, or various shades of browns. If you dye your own colors you can buy one piece of leather and dye it the colors you need The amount you need will depend on the size of the bag. It's best to make a pattern so you can get a rough idea of the square footage you need. It's best to get extra for when you cut incorrectly, and you will

Thanks for the critique. I'm not quite sure about the terminology so I'm a little confused. When you say back belt piece are you referring to the billet or buckle or another part? Which part is the tongue? I made a keeper but the buckle end was to short after stitching so it won't fit between the buckle and the stitching properly. I'll correct that in the next build. I just looked up John Bianchi and the dvd looked familiar. I bought a collection of things for someone here when I first came to the boards and John Bianchi's western holster making dvds were a part of it. They were still in my boxes from when I moved to TN. I'll be watching those!

Thanks all. For the patterns I used Al Stohlman's "How to make holsters" and the machine was the Cobra Class 4. I've stitched holsters in the past by hand but my hands don't want to do that anymore. I made a gun belt for my Outlaw in the past and with the loops filled it was heavy. Now I have the Ruger so it's going to be a little heavier but now it's a little more balanced.

Made with W&C 10oz tooling leather. Primary pistol is a Cimarron/Uberti 1875 Outlaw, 7.5" barrel, .45 Colt. Cross draw is a my father's Ruger New Model single six, 5.5" barrel, .22LR

Looks great!

That's the way it's done on the Cobra but if it works it MUST be right lol. The funny thing is that when I saw this thread I found pics of how the Cobra is threaded and mine was totally wrong. I don't know how I was sewing anything with how wrong it was but it worked.

I though the same thing so I looked at a couple youtube videos and for the Cowboy it's different than the Cobra, based on those videos.

On your top tension disk, is your thread seated completely in between the disks. In the picture it looks like it just sitting on top instead of it sandwiched in between. Give a good tug down so it sets in.

Nicely done!!

I've never heard of them before so I can't comment on their state of business. Looking at the sale items, some of the pieces seem to be 2nd or 3rd grade and some may be things that don't normally sell well. Possibly cleaning out things that have been sitting on shelves for too much time.