nejcek74

I am using something similar, but without the spool stand (I am using the main stand on the table). It works without problems and very fast.

I will just give a few comments on Pfaff 145-H4 6/1c LMNP (as I only know Pfaffs) It's a compound feed, high throw H4 machine, i.e. 14mm under the foot at maximum lift. C is for medium to heavy material (C and D have the same hook). It has a safety clutch. The down size of 145 are small bobbins, the same size as those used in domestic sewing machines. This is not a problem when working on small jobs, but it becomes annoying when working on larger runs or with thicker threads. From the pictures I can see that someone has put some effort into the machine, it has a new upper tension piece and new cover plates around the seam length lever. But looking at the table and the pedal, it looks like it has been sitting in storage for a long time after leaving the factory where it was used hard for many years. But this is just my guessing :))) I have a few old Pfaffs and I service them myself. They usually run incredibly well for 50 or more old machines. The main problems I have are those that have been serviced incorrectly, mainly screws that have been over tightened. Some parts are hard or impossible to find, especially inside the machine. Feet, feeders, tensioners, bobbins, hooks and bobbin cases are still available, and you can get them either as original Pfaff parts, which are very expensive, or from China, which is much cheaper but of varying quality. To my European eyes, where Pfaffs are more common, $900 is a steep price for such a machine. I think the reason is that the H4 version is somehow very famous and sought after. As Kgg said, buying a servo motor would be a good idea and it will add to the final cost. Btw. if you are mainly doing marine vinyl, especially for the larger pieces, I think the flat bed is a good choice.

Bernina 216N service Manual: Bernina 217 service manual C.pdf

You never loop the thread around the pin. Pin is there only to prevent disks from turning.

You can use Pfaff 1245 service manual: link

I hope it will not be too difficult or expensive to find a new hook. Thanks for the follow-up, I am sure someone will find it informative.

If I remember it right, yes, you just take it out. Put some oil around those 2 round holes, hopefully the oil will slowly penetrate the hook. Otherwise, you can remove the whole assembly from bellow: You remove the two big screws that hold the part 91-018 402-45 and than you can wiggle it to the side. Probably you will have to the release the gears also and after you will need to time the machine. I think I have to do it when I was bringing my Pfaff 142 back to life, it was terribly neglected when I got it.

maybe take the hook apart and clean it: you need to take the needle plate and the bobbin, unscrew 3 little screws to remove the hook gib (91-018 439-05), than you can wiggle the moving part of the hook (91-018 346-01) out, unscrew the central screw and take the rest of the hook and washer out. Clean everything, put a little bit of oil. Washer and the base of the hook have only one position how they can be put back. When you finally put he moving part of the hook (91-018 346-01) back, you need to be careful that the little extrusion is caught under the needle plate, it should be rotating only for few millimetres.

Pfaff 1245 Pfaff 1242 Pfaff 142 Are you sure you had the right bobbing case? Or the hook assembly? Maybe something was changed for a wrong or unoriginal part, I don't remember any setting for this, bobbin case just drops into the hook. Check the exploded view of parts for Pfaff 545 and the engineering manual for the Pfaff 1245.

If I remember right the temperature/viscosity dependency this one should be around your values: https://www.tsmoly.com/oils-sewing-machine-p-231.html but better ask them. useful online calculator https://fluidpower.pro/temperature-viscosity-chart/ And I would evaluate what it actually means to use a certain viscosity of sewing machine oil in my application. Because it is very different from industrial production where machines are running 8 hours a day at high speed. I use Spirit2 in all my old Pfaffs, which has lower viscosity, but I guess it's ok as I never run machines on full production speed. (I know, assumption is mother of all f*** ups) https://www.spirit-spray.com/spirit-2-vaseline-oil/cat/k-2002053/

I have a Pfaff 1222. It was my second machine and I fell into the "sturdy old machine" trap. It's a nice running machine with the IDT (Integrated Dual Feed) that excels with all kinds of slippery, soft, extra thin or soft and thick fabrics. But it doesn't work well with thick woven fabrics or leather, which are difficult to punch. I used it to make my first canvas bag. Poor machine, I still feel sorry for it. And it's an old domestic machine, it's slow. Maybe it could work for small pieces, anything else it's no fun. Then I found an used industrial Pfaff 1245 for 400€. Similar numbers but a completely different machine.

could this work? Pfaff 438 is a successor down the line of 138? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272681727610?chn=ps&_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&gQT=2 btw, this are generic Chinese products, price is in line with workmanship. Here is something similar but with different number, and it's written for 4mm zig zag https://planetecouture.com/en/needle-plates/19400-plaque-aiguille-pfaff-138-rfrence-91-026-512-04.html but maybe it's the same on those from your catalogue?

there are many manuals on internet, but I couldn't fine something exactly for 169. Service instruction 69-343 DE-EN language than you have this post on leather worker forum: A German only service manual for Adler 169 and so on

to me it looks exactly like connectors used on computer power supply units and motherboards, this one on my picture is cable from motherboard to hard disk, or the 24 pin PSU ATX cable: you need to find 2 pin connector, sorry I don't know the name of this type, maybe someone else will jump in soon CPU-Power-Cables-4-Pin.webp

Strima use the same socket on their controllers (I use them), but it makes no sense to order only a few items from them (the transport costs are too high). I got something similar from Aliexpress, but the polarity was wrong, so I had to rewire it. You can also get these things on Amazon. The controller and the lights are generic Chinese products, they are all over the place, with different names and hard to know characteristics. So some guess/testing is required. btw. the title of your post is somehow lacking :))))