nejcek74

here is the old adjustment manual Pfaff 1245 Adjustment 89_09.pdf and parts list Pfaff 1245 Parts 85_07.pdf actually I gave you up the relevant information for the old 1245. If you are unsure which subclass you have please make a photo of the shield with class / subclass and share it here. It's kind of hard guessing things with so little information from your side :))))

Just for info, certain old casting Pfaff 1245 are using needle system 190. OP will have to check his machine, which subtype is and if it was maybe adapted for something else. My Pfaff 1245/48 that I bought used came with needles of the system 134. At that time the needle bar in the lowest position was pressing down on the presser foot if it was raised. I changed it to 134-35 as I had them at the time and it is just barely long enough that the parts are not touching.

If he is using Pfaff parts, maybe this is a copy of Pfaff 335? Which was often sold as a binding machine. Regarding 2-way (only horizontal) vs 4-way (horizontal and vertical) feed dog movement there was already written a lot about it on this forum. Conversion is possible but it's a mayor work because you need to connect the upper shaft with the lower one that moves the feed dog. You also need parts which are often more expensive than an used machine. My Pfaff 1245 has only 2-way feed dog and it works for me perfectly fine, but I am using it mostly for heavy fabric or combination of heavy fabric and leather. I guess certain, very fine surfaces could be scratched by a feed dog dragging back.

I learnt sewing with modern servo motor with needle positioner. I am buying them in Europe from a big reseller, Strima, they are around 300 euros. They start at 100 rpm minimumspeed I think, 750 we. Thanks to needle positioner I don't miss lower speeds. I do needle up, needle down and I can go step by step when I want. And the needle is always in the right position (locked stitch or open tensioner etc) so working is easy and precise. I don't need and don't want a speed reducer under the table. A jog dial would be useful to limit upper speed which I need to do on the controller. I also miss more robust needle positioner with better and easier fixing to different types of machines. For me a middle priced servos with good documentation and support would be interesting. Efkas prices are too steep, the cheapest Chinese imports are undocumented and have often strange quirks that are difficult to solve

Yes, it looks like there is no positioner. One of my similar low cost servos didn't operate without positioner, even when the function was switched off in the menu :))) I checked his video again and actually it looks that the white pin operates as intended. Or so I guess.

Plastic white pin is for back-pedal. for normal sewing you press the pedal down and the motor starts, the more you press the faster it spins for back pedal you press with the heel, pedal moves up. In my case it is used to put the needle in the up position (used togetehr with needle positioner). While starting / sewing the plastic pin should rest in the lower position. Only when you back-pedal the plastic pin is pushed up. I guess here could be your problem. Adjust your pedal and the rod.

Here is the adjusting manual: https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/fileadmin/dag/Media/Downloads/205/S_204_EN.pdf and a previous topic on the forum linking to Uwe's videos about the machine. I guess that was the video you were following for adjustment? If not, check it. My personal experience: I am still learning adjusting the machine, but I found always the best way to meticulously follow the adjustment manual. No shortcuts. Sometimes I need to repeat the adjusting process few times, maybe something slipped, I did something to tight or too loose or I misunderstood the description. But at the end is always fine and after few repetitions I am already efficient.

What is written on the little shield on the machine?

have you read specifications? Needle system: 134-35 LR Needle size: 80 -100 Nm Max. sewing speeds: 2.800 s.p.m Max. stitch length: 8,0 mm Top feed stroke: 7,0 mm Stitch type: 301 (Lockstitch) Thread type: synth. 40/3 Clearance under the sewing foot: max. 15,0 mm it also says max 3/8'' thickens. I am not used to imperial measurements sorry, but I guess you will be better at that. The name 335 suggest it's a clone of Pfaff 335. You can find a lot of info about that here.

you can also check the adler 68 parts list: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/amfile/file/download/file/3091/category/498/

I wrote you a message with details.

Search on the forum, it was already linked here in few topics. Actually if you Google it, the first result leads back to a post from 2021 😀

There is one on ebay https://ebay.us/m/MZBMPe There are also some Chinese for a fraction of price (24$) that could maybe work. They don't have the sliding wheel on the top. I can do it for 70$ (knee lift) + ca 45$ shipping. But you need to wait at least till Friday when I am back home from a short travel. I need to weight it and check if it is really working.

According to Pfaff 545 Spare parts catalogue is the same as on Pfaff 138, 145 etc. I could sell one for a fair price (which I don't know yet :))) but I don't think there is a point sending it from Switzerland to Texas

When I was first cleaning it, I didn't know the know it is from Bakelite, so it broke in half. i glued it together and put it back it still hurts a little bit. But there is no magic behind it, it's just a simple know sitting tightly on that shaft. After you loose that screw nothing is holding it. Except old oil and dirt.