cazio

I just found my way back to this site and this was one of the first threads I looked at, I'm very happy to have rediscovered this place. I never thought a rig looked complete without the cartridge loops but your rig looks fantastic.

RobDude, Belt looks good, I hand stitch everything and I know how long it can take, did you also cement the leather together? Have you tried using chicago screws instead of line snaps? I switched when I discovered it was easier to just punch the holes and not worry about setting the snaps. It also allows you to change the buckle (nickle,brass) and then just use the same color screws.

I have found that Gum Tragacanth works very well for me, it seals the edges and I've never had a problem. Good luck. Cazio

Great looking rig. We all make mistakes, that's what makes it look homemade but when we do it makes us remember for the next time. Cazio

Smalltown, very nice work. I have a couple of the Tucker HF1s in black cherry both just like the main one shown on his website. Yours looks great I may have to give it a try, I've been wanting one for my kimber pro. Thanks for the picture. Cazio

Thanks for the advice guys. I figured I was stuck so I went ahead and dyed the belt black, I'll do my next belt in the cordovan. I'll post some pics of the gun belt when I finish it, cartridge loop stitching isn't fun. Robert

That's nice work. The stitching and moulding looks as good as any of my sparks, kramer or tucker holsters that I own, I hope to see more of your work. Robert

I did a search and found some info but wanted to ask just to be sure. I have a belt that I have several coats of cordovan colored dye on (tandy pro dye) I wanted to give the belt a bit of a darker finish and used a little bit of black, I then used a leather dye solvent (tandy) to take some of it off. My question is this, is there any other products you folks can recommend for doing this? once dye is applied is there much that can be done to remove it? It isn't that big a deal since the belt is mine and I know I should have experimented on scraps first. I have a holster that I did and the color is just what I wanted on the belt and I wasn't sure how I did it(now I remember) I can always just leave this belt black and do the next one with the color that I wanted now that I remember what I did to get the effects I wanted. Thanks Robert

I agreee about the simple design and think it would not be that difficult to copy. Instead of using a reinforcement inside I personally would use a thicker piece of leather for the lining, I think something like 7-8oz inside and as the body would be ideal in that it would make it firm enough not to collapse and hold up to some abuse. This thinker lining would also hide your chicago screws that hold the belt flap over. These are my simple opinions.

Fantastic looking work. I can tell you've done leather work before.

I understand what your thinking about there but do you think with the weaving of the loops behind it that you would be able to get a uniformed look once you stitch it to the belt? I recently came across a belt with something like your thinking but it actual may have had the loops stitched on and then the whole piece stitched to the belt. I'll try to find it and post a picture.

Yes I use the GB and then use a tandy slicker to smooth it all out and then stitch and mould. I think it works out quite well. If I line the holster then I just dye, stitch and mould.

I use 6x32 in my dot pull the dot fasteners and the fit fine, I will have to try the 8x32 and let you know.

I always dye before stitching and moulding, I also dye the inside and use GT on it to give if a smooth surface. I usually re-dye the piece when I'm done moulding and the leather forms up.

I get the T-nuts from lowe's and they are for the 6/32 screws. As far as the snaps go I buy them from paragear.com, I buy the pull the dot and they are black and are priced at .85 per set with a $25 minimum order. I like the pull the dot because they can only be release by pulling them in one direction. Hope this helps.