Jump to content

BrainTannedKiwi

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    27

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BrainTannedKiwi

  1. BrainTannedKiwi
    i will get some ordered soon then, do you dilute with neatsfoot or alcohol?
  2. BrainTannedKiwi
    yea makes a lot of sense thank you
  3. BrainTannedKiwi
    yea i do two toned effects on all belts with embossing, and i let it fully dry. I will try diluting the black, i am worried that it will bleed more into the pattern because it will be more runny but will give it a go. i am using your exact resolene method too, must be the dye. the cloth i use for buffing is also dirty that probably doesnt help.. do you use pro dye? yea ok sweet will keep that in mind, would that help the black penetrate in more?
  4. BrainTannedKiwi
    I usually buff it a decent amount before finishing maybe not enough, I also dont let the coloured base coat dry over night before putting on the black would that be a problem and you also recommend pro dye instead of alcohol for the rub off?
  5. BrainTannedKiwi
    ok ill get some next time i order dye, will i be able to use usmc coloured dye with the pro black on top or should i not mix them thanks for response
  6. BrainTannedKiwi
    Hey guys I make embossed belts with block dyed two tone patterns, my process is dye base a color say red, then block dye with black. Let dry come back the next day and two coats of resolene with buffing in between, but I've experienced some of the black still rubbing off and fading how should I fix this? I'm using near fiebings leather dye (alchohol) non diluted. I was thinking of dyeing black first maybe so it penetrates then going over with base color, im worried it will still rub off and darken the base color as it seems like the black is the hardest to absorb. is there any way to make it absorb easier, i have tried diluting it but hasnt seemed to help that much.
  7. BrainTannedKiwi
    They both look pretty good, what work is involved in the edge painting technique? sorry for late reply
  8. BrainTannedKiwi
    Going through my burnishing options for belt production, looking for something relatively quick and that I can do on a motor burnisher that holds a good edge over time, ive seen these two products advertise as a wipe and then wait to dry, im a bit skeptical. Any experience appreciated thank you!
  9. BrainTannedKiwi
    i made the burnisher today and its working there is one side with groove and one side flat, the flat side im not so sure about but groove works well. Yea ill see how much freight costs to new zealand how is the moss sealing solution applied?
  10. BrainTannedKiwi
    yea imma try saddle soap just because it might be a bit quicker. yea turning ally is satisfying haha i just turned my own burnisher on the bench grinder that im using, means it turns pretty true to the wonky shaft it has. i still need to find a good way to burnish flesh side as the leather im getting can be quite fluffy
  11. BrainTannedKiwi
    thats very satisfying i could easily make something like that at work aswell, and maybe can be applied to the leather with a power burnisher
  12. BrainTannedKiwi
    Yea right so saddle soap is just a lubricant that makes sense i need to go get some and should have the burnisher made this week. Yea i like the idea of using beeswax also because i think my customers will like the idea of using natural products (as do i). Do you make many belts? or just horsey stuff.
  13. BrainTannedKiwi
    If you have the image i can print it
  14. BrainTannedKiwi
    Thanks for your 3 cents, thats a lot of insight. The leather Im working with isnt too stiff, fit for purpose as I am only doing belts not something a horse could yank off. I will definitely get some saddle soap, and the cloths damp so edge doesnt burn correct? I will test out my theory of a plain cylinder of wood for the flesh side polish then try the canvas sleeve and see how long that lasts me, could beeswax or gumtrag be used as a final sealer rather than tokonole or is tokonole the best?
  15. BrainTannedKiwi
    so is the canvas attached to the burnisher or is that by hand? Lots of people are pointing towards saddle soap, seems like the go there are a few types though haha, paste bar spray, allsorts. Im just trying to think of the best way to have good consistent edges and flesh side using a motor burnisher.
  16. BrainTannedKiwi
    haha yes. a log for simpler terms
  17. BrainTannedKiwi
    I think it should be ok as long as i use plenty of fluids yea thats what ill be doing, i was thinking maybe just a flat round bar of wood would work for burnishing the flesh side what do you think? and yes sanding makes a lot of mess thats why i try to avoid it also probably not very healthy
  18. BrainTannedKiwi
    Hey guys I recently bought a bench grinder that I would like to use to burnish belts, I need to burnish the flesh side and also the edges too, sanding shouldnt be as much of a use. Whats the best way to do this? I was thinking having one side wooden burnisher with grooves and the other side a sleeve of canvas for the flesh side, is that the best way to do it? Thanks heaps!
  19. BrainTannedKiwi
    Wow well done, do you have the drawings for this?
  20. BrainTannedKiwi
    Im an apprentice at a machine shop so keeping it sharp and oiled shouldnt be a problem! Thinking of getting a cheapo one from aliexpress as i dont need much width, splitting it will serve a double purpose because it means i can be a bit messy with antique then just split it off at the end right?
  21. BrainTannedKiwi
    Thats good to know, might be a mission getting it in NZ haha, also Ive been hand dyeing and finishing all my belts so buying natural stuff is always preferable for me, will need to get a glass slicker, what wax do you use?
  22. BrainTannedKiwi
    What thickness do you start off with and what thickness do you split down too, Ive been getting double shoulder 3.5mm place near me sells 3.8 and 4.32mm double butt
  23. BrainTannedKiwi
    Hey guys getting pretty deep into beltmaking with embossing rollers and one thing im stuck on is what to do about the back, first things first id rather not stitch it as i like the look of the flesh side when done nicely. #1 Best way keep backside nice when I'm dyeing and antiquing everything? Ive been putting some masking tape on just wondering if theres a better way. #2 The leather im getting can get quite fluffy and ive been sanding it off with my mini belt sander but its a right mess and makes the back look and feel quite uneven, I was thinking of buying a thicker side and getting a little splitter from china and split it at the end after dyeing so its nice and clean would that be a good idea? #What should I use to finish it? I've been using gum trag and the flat end of my burnisher, it works but wrinkles up a lot and does look to great. Thanks heaps any info will be super useful! Also this was made from a 3d printed roller, quite impressed!
  24. BrainTannedKiwi
    Thats good to know, Ive got a roller machine on the way so I can get a grip on the dyeing techniques then maybe in the future get some plates, could you not make the rollers larger in diameter to make a bigger pattern?
  25. BrainTannedKiwi
    Ah yea that would make sense as they also make wallets and stuff with more square patterns, I'm looking at getting an embossing roller would these plates be the better option? yea cool as i suspected, very useful thank you
×
×
  • Create New...