dirk87

3D printed templates i’m using. Most of them are not really necessary but its part of the fun for me. i glue my straps complete in 30mm width, then cutout the buckle pin notch on the short strap, then line up and cutout the outer profile 1. 115mm strap cutting outer leather and reinforcement 2. 115mm strap cutting lining and inner layer 3. 115mm strap template 4. Different length gauge for glueing/lining up liner to the folded edge. 5. Gauge to mark fold and skive line at 5/10/20mm 6. 75mm strap template 7. template for glue liner at the fixed keeper side 8. 75mm strap cutting liner 9. 75mm strap cutting inner layer 10. 75mm strap cutting outer layer and reinforcement Glueing jig for outer/inner layer Curved jig to glue liner

Just found this post, really nice work. Very nice colors, construction and stitching. Inspires me to start making bags. Can i ask about your stitching? Which size irons and awl do you use? And which thread size, looks like linen?

Thank you and no problem highjacking, its an interesting discussion. I also agree a watch should be worn and there are always risks. Otherwise take an insurance or keep it in a safe as investment but i think there are better things than watches for that. A well constructed watch strap is a very low risk to fail imo, it should hold up well beyond after the stitches completely fail. I also deconstructed 2 older (~5 years) straps from oris and certina both were still intact but once opened i could see the reinforcement degrading(some kind of cotton weave i think). Not failing. Hard to test but i’m sure velodon will hold up much longer. The whole strength of a strap is based on the reinforcement, if its in the right places the leather will not be stretched and should last a very very long time.

It had more to do with me being unsure and indecisive and didn’t want to mess it up… maybe thats in line with Japanese culture LOL

Thank you! Yes, i’m using allot 3d printed tools like cutting templates and jigs. I like it because i can redesign them on the go and make small improvements or adjustments. For example cutting templates. I like to cut and partially finish edges, then measure and adjust/reprint my template. A few tenths of a mm can be a big difference on the strap width. downside is i have box full of NOK tools LOL. I will post some pictures later of my process and tools. I guess for flat straps i kind of found a structured way to make them. Can also share design files if there is interest

Thank you! Interesting topic because i dont understand mechanically the difference between normal and qr spring bars. I only can imagine the spring bar comes undone due to something catching or moving the lever thingy while wearing. Sounds indeed horrible to lose a watch like that.

Thank you! yes agree, was trying to check which thread size looks the best with my awl. i feel like something in between 0.3mm and meisi M40 would be ideal. Maybe i should try M30 which is supposed to be 0.35mm i also noticed that with a high color contrast thread size looks bigger than with low contrast. Sounds logical but i didn’t realise so far

True, as mentioned i have no intention in selling. However the quality aspect interests me thats why im experimenting with reinforcements. So far i think Velodon is pretty durable. Nice watch! Sound true however i think there are allot of differences in construction which can really influence strap degradation. for example a fully veg tan only folded and stitch at the folds is not gonna last as long as a multi layer strap with reinforcement in between.

Just sharing the buildup of my latest strap. from top to bottom: Buttero leather Velodon (folded over) Salamander salpa Zermatt leather And a quick stitching test. 2.7mm pricking irons opened with 1.8mm flat awl. M40 is meisi linen M40 0.4 is Hua linen 0.4mm 0.4P is Hua poly 0.4mm O.3 is Hia line 0.3mm

Thats a real concern i worried about! But I’m pretty sure a patek comes with normal spring bars i don't see any difference in function and reliability between normal vs quick release bars.

What does seiko size refer to? both quick release and normal spring bars come in d= 1.5 or 1.8mm and 8-25mm length in 1mm increments. Marathon just supplies regular spring bars, looks like 1.8mm https://www.marathonwatch.com/products/shoulderless-spring-bars?srsltid=AfmBOoqUY5KNh_Ra4gNHDbdwtlgY88xI7pJuJ4FuizA-cdtL_XkHKsAN Drilled vs non drilled just refers to the shoulder. Please correct me if I misunderstand. I don't get why anything has to be cut, if the strap cutout is properly sized there is no problem installing/removing. I get your comment on curved spring bars, experimenting on this, will post some images when I make some progress on this. Just to make it clear, I am not making straps commercially, just trying to learn and evolve my craft.

I am trying to learn as much as possible about watch straps. Could you please tell me more about this. why do you have to cut it? Do you mean the leather? I have no problems inserting/removing the QR spring bars. As far as i know the regular oblong hole allows this. Is spring bars failing on drilled lugs a thing? As far as i know drilled lugs are the same diameter drill just extended to the outside. Is there any difference with normal partially drilled? Why would it not work on a damasko DC58, as far as i can see they have normal lugs?

Thanks for your comment. I understand your opinion about the quick release, however i like them for my own watches for swapping straps and i never had issues on normal drilled lugs, regular use on jlc, oris, tudor. something to keep in mind not everyone likes these QR spring bars

Thank you for your comment, Yes hand stitched, it took me about a day and a half for each. Most of the time spend on the edge finish. Leathers are imports from Italy (buttero) and france(alran sully, zermatt). In japan i’m buying from alleather.com for convenience

Hello all, I recently started making watch straps as a hobby. I’m collecting allot of info and trying out different things. I wanted to start a topic where i can share my work and findings in the hope it can be of value to someone else. I intend to randomly post my progress and experiences on construction and finishing. Below are my 2 latest straps 1 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero biscuit 0.9mm Lining: alran sully gold 0.9mm Inner layer: generic veg tan 0.8mm Thread: meisi superfine linenM40 caramel Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 2 20 to 16mm taper Outer: buttero whiskey 0.9mm Lining: zermatt 0.9mm Inner layer: salpa 0.4mm Reinforcement: velodon 0.1mm Thread: meisi superfine linen M40 cream Stitching: CH 2.7mm Edge: uniters sp2000 color mixed 3d printed folding jig i’m using: please leave me any comments, questions or critiques… more to follow

Thank you for the nice words~ yes all hand stitched, im still struggling with punching perfectly straight and the stitching look at the corners bit im making allot of samples and i can feel its improving by making ‘stitching miles’

Hello all, I’m new here, just introduced myself in the members subforum. Started out with craft sha stitching chisels and decided rater soon i wanted to upgrade because I didn’t like the look of my stitches. After reading about all the topics about pricking/stitching irons here i ordered a set of european style 3.0mm from Wuta. i made some stitching samples i wanted to share because these are the things i was looking for when i was deciding on what to buy. leather 2x 1.5mm japanese veg tan glued flesh to flesh. Thread used is as follows: Hua 0.3mm Linen Hua 0.4mm Linen Hua 0.5mm Linen Hua 0.4mm Polyester Hua 0.5mm Polyester Hua 0.4mm Polyester Vinymo MBT #8 Vinymo MBT #5 Vinymo MBT #1 Vinymo MBT #5 Generic Amazon 0.45mm Generic Amazon 0.45mm Only marking the leather with hand pressure: Punching through: backside after punching ( ised soft leather as backing): Stitching:

Hello, Have been reading here for a while and recently signed up. Thank you all for the amount of info and sharing on here! I am from belgium but live in japan and started leatherworking as a hobby a few months ago. Bought some sheap tools and leather to try it and now I’m full in… you know how it goes :) There is so much to learn in the craft but let me share some of my work. The vertical wallet is from http://lefrenchcrafter.com, the key chain from corter leather’s youtube video. The others i designed myself.