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About Me

Found 3 results

  1. A lot of my customers are big fans of Red Wing boots so they ask for specific colors... Two recent ones were Gold Russet Sequoia and Briar Oil Slick. The design uses 3 main pieces for the body and is basically a "big Dopp kit" with #10 YKK Zippers:
  2. Howdy folks; New member here, first post. My name is Harvey Haines, I'm from Connecticut, and I've always wanted to try my hand at leatherwork. I'll be taking a hiatus and moving to Minneapolis in October, but for now I run a small glass and steel fabrication company. My current project is crafting banjo and guitar stands, an important feature of which is the intended use of heavy leather as padding at all contact points. It would be best to use leather from the U.S., but I'd go for an English leather if necessary. I've been thinking about getting Buffalo leather instead of cow, but I'm not knowledgable enough in availability, origins of materials, merits of different animals, etc. So, I figure I'll ask the experts here! The framework of each stand will be welded steel, with the leather being bolted on and largely stationary. However, the neck support will be, on at least one model, a 2" or 3" leather strap spanning the 4" or 5" gap between two pieces of steel. Rust, antique, or reddish-brown leather would offer a lovely color contrast against my steel frames, but I'm open to any good earth tones. My questions are these: Where can I reliably get American Buffalo leather in 8-10 oz? Is there a place to purchase S.B. Foot leather online and in small quantities? (My first big commission came from Red Wing Shoes, I've got a soft spot for the company.) Does anyone have an idea about the abrasion resistance of leathers? I've read that Chrome tanned leather has higher tolerances, but I'd like to stick with veg-tanned. Am I being too sentimental about the old-timey nonsense? Most of the cuts will be with a strap cutter, but I'll need to notch each piece of leather a few times. What would the optimum tool be for cutting a few 1"-2" straight lines? Head Knife? Shears? Alright, done babbling for now. I appreciate the help folks! Harvey
  3. So, inspired by the top hat I saw here on Leatherworker that Windrider made, I finally got the kick to make my own. It helped that Nstarleather had just sent me a bunch of SB Foot leather that NEEDED to be worked with. I looked around online for patterns and styles, and decided for my first attempt instead of stitching I'd rivet the hat parts together. Not exactly a mistake, but definitely challenging without having some sort of supporting arm to put inside the hat for the last few rivets. I managed though, and by the time I was finished with them I was definitely getting a slightly different vibe from the more Londonesque Steampunk that I usually envision, especially once I put the "lantern" on. I'm rather proud of the "lantern", it's a flickering candle LED encased inside a bead that I had traded for from Cseeger, I believe it's an African brass cage bead. Added on some crystals and more leather, and bam, steampunky lantern that can be turned on and off from inside the hat! (I actually have plans for the next hat I make in regards to lighting, I think I've started up a new habit... The quetzalcouatl style snake is made from flat and seed beads in a double row, the "head" is made from moulted chicken feathers from my Easter Egger hen and another African brass bead. The crescent indents are scarring on the leather which I thought looked pretty neat, I'll be adding more stuff to that area in the future. The back was something I debated over, should I rivet it as well? I decided to go with a simple x with leather cord and reinforce the area with another strip of leather, keeping the hat size to a maximum since I want it to be a large sized hat and I still need to put a liner in the rim so the rivets inside don't get sweated directly on.
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