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Showing results for tags 'sealant'.
Found 9 results
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I'm currently gearing up for building a custom suit of veg-tan leather armor to go over another costume. However, I am new to the process of dyeing leather having previously only used paints for coloring projects. So I'm looking for advice on the what materials I should purchase and tips to use them best. The most important part is I need a dye and a sealent that will guarantee that there will be NO bleeding of the dye. The costume underneath is very expensive and difficult to clean and will likely be be rubbing against other equally expensive and difficult to clean costumes and many use white materials including faux fur. Thank you so much. -
Hey All!! I posted this a while ago and got no feedback. Maybe I didn't do it right? Anyway, still need some guidance.... I'm working on a custom wallet project with a splattered dye job on the leather and I need to know the best black dye to use that will stay put on the leather (and not run over time) as well as the best sealant to protect the splatters from running together and/or rubbing off. Since this leather will be used for a wallet, it'll get a lot of use and needs to be well sealed. FYI, the dyes I've tried so far are: 1)Fiebings Black Leather Dye 2) Even tried Fiebings Edge Kote for a more opaque look. The sealants I've tried are: 1) Fiebings Acrylic Resolene (I've tried rubbing this on gently but it makes the splatter spots run) 2) Bowling Alley Wax (I've used this for years on belts and such but it's not protecting the splatter spots over time. They all blend into the leather making it look dirty...) Thank for your help!!
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Hi all. I posted this question on the wrong board.. so I'm trying it here: I'm working on a custom wallet project with a splattered dye job on the leather and I need to know the best black dye to use that will stay put on the leather (and not run over time) as well as the best sealant to protect the splatters from running together and/or rubbing off. Since this leather will be used for a wallet, it'll get a lot of use and needs to be well sealed. FYI, the dyes I've tried so far are: 1)Fiebings Black Leather Dye 2) Even tried Fiebings Edge Kote for a more opaque look. The sealants I've tried are: 1) Fiebings Acrylic Resolene (I've tried rubbing this on gently but it makes the splatter spots run) 2) Bowling Alley Wax (I've used this for years on belts and such but it's not protecting the splatter spots over time. They all blend into the leather making it look dirty...) Thank for your help!! -
Hi all. I'm working on a custom wallet project with a splattered dye job on the leather and I need to know the best black dye to use that will stay put on the leather (and not run over time) as well as the best sealant to protect the splatters from running together and/or rubbing off. Since this leather will be used for a wallet, it'll get a lot of use and needs to be well sealed. FYI, the dyes I've tried so far are: 1)Fiebings Black Leather Dye 2) Even tried Fiebings Edge Kote for a more opaque look. The sealants I've tried are: 1) Fiebings Acrylic Resolene (I've tried rubbing this on gently but it makes the splatter spots run) 2) Bowling Alley Wax (I've used this for years on belts and such but it's not protecting the splatter spots over time. They all blend into the leather making it look dirty...) Thank for your help!!
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Okay, I have quite a few questions in regards to sealants/finishes for acrylic paint! What would you consider to be the most durable sealant/finish to go over acrylic paint on an item that will be used outdoors and must withstand a lot use? Is there a certain sealant you put on the paint prior to using the finish? I've heard that Resolene is the best to use, is that true? If so, how many 50/50 coats do you put on the item? How many coats of sealant prior to Resolene? Thank you for your time!
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I have been using baby food jars for storing batches of mixed dyes but the lids do not tighten well and I have evaporation and storage issues. I usually only mix small batches but if I had a more reliable bottle I might mix more. How do you store your dyes? -
I'm having some major issues sealing a piece I've dyed with the Eco-Flo Scarlet Red color. I made sure to buff between each layer of dying, and buffed before sealing with Satin Sheen, but after 3 coats of Satin Sheen, color is STILL coming off quite a bit. The amount of residual dye on my daubers is not diminishing. This is a piece that will be worn on bare skin, and I certainly don't want to potentially stain skin after sweating or in minor rain! Has anyone else had issues with red in particular? I've never had issues like this with any other color I've dyed with before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!
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Hey everyone, I've done some searching but come up with mixed results. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best combo for painting and sealing on top of Fiebings Pro Oil Dye? I'm cutting, tooling, punching holes and then dying my pieces black — passing them off to a friend to do some painting on them (using a full range of color), and then she's giving them back so I can seal the paint and stitch them up. I haven't done any painting, acrylic or otherwise, on leather yet so I'm wondering if anyone had and product or combo recommendations given that I'm using the pro oil dye... Thanks in advance! -
Anybody know of a product that will permanently seal or finish (weather/stain-proof) 'milled' veg tanned cowhide leather and still keep it's soft feel? I think it's tumbled and so the top grain might be slightly open, almost like suede or nubuck, but it doesn't really have a nap to it...feels kinda like thick deer or elkskin. Products I've tried; Leather balm w/atom wax, tan coat, saddle lac and resolene, and they all left a waxy or clear-coat type finish. I have not tried Eco-Flo's Block Out Resist Finish yet and that claims to dry to a matte finish. .Anybody had any luck with it? I'm thinking at best I'll hafta resort to a Scotch-guard type product like 4 Seasons or Protect-all...do they still make that?... anyways, those are more of a 'treatment' and not a permanent finish. I'm open to all ideas and suggestions, thanks for taking the time to read this, ~confounded cobbler in Traverse City
