Make stiching holes with a chisel for a collar

[Abelc]

I want to make a collar for my next project. I have been reading, but I have still doubts.

I have some straps around that are 2 mm (5 oz) and 3 mm (~ 8 oz).

I was thinking of putting two 3 mm straps, glued, and a 2,5 cm 5 oz.  strap for the buckle riveted to one of the layers. So the base of the rivet (9 mm single cap rivets) is hidden between the two layers of straps. I have also a big scrap of 1 mm leather, to use as lining that I would glue to the second strap, and  fold over the edges, to the flesh side (then gluing and stitching the straps).

I have also 7 mm rivets (and i think both "height" is 7 & 9 mm), but i could make some 9 mm round piece of leather and put it behind the 2,5 cm strap if the two straps (5 mm) are not of enough weigh to rivet with 9 mm rivets.

I was thinking in, before that, use double-sided tape, to sand the edges, make a line with a wind divider (curving the straps) and use my Japanese chisel to make holes for stitching (in flat). At least, if not all the way through, enough to open then latter with the awl.

But now come my doubts.

I have read that anything like a collar, cuffs etc., you have to glue and sew them in curve, and not flat, because otherwise there will be wrinkles.

The more weigh of the leather, the more wrinkles it seems, but I am quite bad at skiving (I have a sort of curved knife, like a half moon one, but smaller, and I am not sure how to sharpen it, and if I haven't eaten the edge when I tried to sharpen it XD), and I don't want to buy new straps XD

But of course, if I lay it flat, provisionally glued with tape, and use the chisel, would the holes match when gluing permanently on curve and stitching ? Because the inside layer, if I understood, something I have read, will contract and the outside layer will expand, in curve, and would not match.

Is that correct?

It would be better to use the divider, to not only trace the line of the stitching, but also the space between stitches, to make it as uniform as possible (doing all that by putting the collar curved on a pipe, or something of similar diameter).

And make all holes with an awl ?
 

I should trace the stitching lines once burnished the edges (the outside one just slightly) and lined the outside strap and glued to the other (i mean all almost finished but stitching), so the edge to stitching distance accounts the edge already finished, and the 1mm more of the lining for the inside strap?

I was thinking to have the stitches at 3,5 mm from final edge.

The holes for the rivets to rivet the buckle strap to the outside strap, is not problem to make them and rivet in flat, I suppose, I can always mark and make the punch holes once finished all.

[mike02130]

I would punch the holes on the outside piece while it is laying flat.  Cut your inside piece longer then glue them together while wrapping them around something round, such as a bottle or rolling pin.  You could just do it freehand, too.  Trim the piece to length.   Then you could use an awl to complete the holes or use a chunk of wood (2x4 or 2x6 in USA) and position-punch, reposition and punch with your chisels.

[Klara]

Firstly, I have been making a  dozen or so dog collars last year and I have come to the conclusion that the wrinkles don't matter (I asked the same question here). My dog hasn't complained yet...

Secondly, if you use a 2 mm strap on either end, there is not much point in reinforcing the middle (unless you add padding or do it for looks). It's the ends that are stressed most - where the leather bends around the buckle and the holes.

Thirdly, you can watch how a professionally trained UK saddler makes collars in JH Leather's videos on YouTube. That's the instructions I followed and they work really well. 

Have fun!

[Abelc]

17 hours ago, mike02130 said:

I would punch the holes on the outside piece while it is laying flat.  Cut your inside piece longer then glue them together while wrapping them around something round, such as a bottle or rolling pin.  You could just do it freehand, too.  Trim the piece to length.   Then you could use an awl to complete the holes or use a chunk of wood (2x4 or 2x6 in USA) and position-punch, reposition and punch with your chisels.

Would be possible to do it the other way?

Cut the inner strap, based on the dimensions of the neck, measured, to a length longer than the circumference of the neck, put the inner strap, in curve, over something round, on something of similar diameter, and place over it a long strap for the external,  and mark the dimensions, where starts and finish the inner strap, then cut.

That way i can sand, burinish a bit and line al the edges of the inner strap (like a rolled edge).

And also sand edges &  burnish (black tokonole) those of the external one, rivet the buckle strap (previously marking on curve perhaps), and then as you say, glue in curve the 2 straps, make the holes with chisel, in flat, and  then sew it in curve.

Thaks for the wood block idea. I know using bee wax is good, but not the wood trick (i just have seen it in a video, also)

[Abelc]

10 hours ago, Klara said:

Secondly, if you use a 2 mm strap on either end, there is not much point in reinforcing the middle (unless you add padding or do it for looks). It's the ends that are stressed most - where the leather bends around the buckle and the holes.

The lining is just for visual aesthetics and practice, they are 3mm, the 2mm is the buckle one, riveted to the external strap (as i have 2,5 cm 2mm strap and another 4 cm 3 mm one, and i preffer to not buy more XD)

Perhaps wrinkles will not matter, but anyway is good to know ways to do it, and learn more.

Quote

Thirdly, you can watch how a professionally trained UK saddler makes collars in JH Leather's videos on YouTube. That's the instructions I followed and they work really well. 

Thank you I will take a look.

 

[mike02130]

10 hours ago, Klara said:

Firstly, I have been making a  dozen or so dog collars last year and I have come to the conclusion that the wrinkles don't matter (I asked the same question here). My dog hasn't complained yet...

I'm under the impression the collar is not for dogs.  He mentioned cuffs, too.

[mike02130]

11 minutes ago, Abelc said:

Would be possible to do it the other way?

I suppose it would be possible but more difficult, or at least not as convenient(?).  

[Abelc]

9 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

I'm under the impression the collar is not for dogs.  He mentioned cuffs, too.

yes,  is a bdsm collar, but anyway the same process & methods should work.

[Abelc]

20 minutes ago, mike02130 said:

I suppose it would be possible but more difficult, or at least not as convenient(?).  

Yeah, could be.
I did understood, to make the inner strap longer, glue them permanently, while in curve and then cut it to have the same lenght for both while are in curve.

But would be the same to temporaly tape the external strap, cut to measure, to a long strap, in curve as you say, mark in the internal, and cut it. Burninsh and later line all the edges, etc and then glue both permanently.

For the external strap length should account the thickness of the straps, i think, but as i have a old collar, and being able to take measures of it, makes it easier, as I would not need to account for thickness, just measure from buckle to the hole used, and add some amount to be sure, and that would be the length of the external layer.

Thanks.

[Samalan]

can you show a pic of what you made so far

[Frodo]

I make 1 1/2''' wide 2 layer belts and just glue the 2 strips on top of each other and sew.  I have not had any problems with wrinkles

 

[Klara]

2 hours ago, Frodo said:

I make 1 1/2''' wide 2 layer belts and just glue the 2 strips on top of each other and sew.  I have not had any problems with wrinkles

 

But the curve of a belt is much shallower than that of a cuff... And I believe that a lot depends on what kind of leather is used. The chrome-tanned 0.8 mm lamb in my dog collars (over foam padding) wrinkles, when I bend my leash from two layers of 2 mm veg tan to the same curve, there's no wrinkles.

[Frodo]

i see your point

[chuck123wapati]

this may be a dumb question but why do people make bdsm collars comfortable? Isn't it sposed to hurt?

[cradom]

On 3/20/2022 at 1:00 PM, chuck123wapati said:

this may be a dumb question but why do people make bdsm collars comfortable? Isn't it sposed to hurt?

Things like this are mostly symbolism. Wearing a 2 inch collar signifies being "owned" by someone. Don't want to damage your pet/slave/partner/whatever.