111W155

[Thescandall]

Ok, I have the Techsew 5100 for my heavy stuff, but found this singer 111w155 head only for a couple hunert.  The machine has been serviced and seems solid . It should work great for smaller, thinner projects. I am now the foremost leading authority on how to work on it and service it from all the videos I’ve watched trying to familiarize myself with it.. 

Im going to get a table with a pedal and knee lift for it, my question is,  is just a regular ole 550 w servo motor ok.  And pros and cons from you  guys on which one. I don’t need a position sensor. I’m already used to not having one..  there are just too many out there to chose from and the reviews for all are mixed.  

[Thescandall]

[Wizcrafts]

Get a servo with a tiny pulley, like comes on this motor. You will need to calculate the length of the belt based upon the distance from the motor pulley to the machine pulley. It uses type 3L belts that are available at hardware stores and from the dealers selling the servo motors.

[Thescandall]

Thanks Wiz.  I saw 45mm pulleys available also. This machine hasj a small drive pulley so I can see where it really needs it to slow things down. 
Now you got me wondering about analog. are all brush motors considered analog. 

[Thescandall]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Get a servo with a tiny pulley, like comes on this motor. You will need to calculate the length of the belt based upon the distance from the motor pulley to the machine pulley. It uses type 3L belts that are available at hardware stores and from the dealers selling the servo motors.

Ok Wiz. I called Bob. He says he will put a 45mm pully on it before he ships it. And if that don’t slow it down enough for me he has a box type speed reducer also.  
 

Edited March 31, 2022 by Thescandall

[Wyowally]

I only learned recently that one of the advantages of brushless motors is they make considerably more low rpm torque than the brushed ones. Even so, the brushed servo I have on my 111w155 with 45mm pulley works well enough for me in terms of power and low speed running. I'm not sure what my machine pulley size is compared to yours, but it looks similar. My parts stores had the size and series belt like Wiz mentioned to you. I felt like I was the resident current expert also after going through my machine, but I am not. There are a couple of them here who are lightyears beyond me.  I only need to run my servo on the 3rd setting on the dial to get what I want.  I have pondered a reducer but the good ones cost more than my servo!

Edited April 2, 2022 by Wyowally
more info

[Thescandall]

7 hours ago, Wyowally said:

I only learned recently that one of the advantages of brushless motors is they make considerably more low rpm torque than the brushed ones. Even so, the brushed servo I have on my 111w155 with 45mm pulley works well enough for me in terms of power and low speed running. I'm not sure what my machine pulley size is compared to yours, but it looks similar. My parts stores had the size and series belt like Wiz mentioned to you. I felt like I was the resident current expert also after going through my machine, but I am not. There are a couple of them here who are lightyears beyond me.  I only need to run my servo on the 3rd setting on the dial to get what I want.  I have pondered a reducer but the good ones cost more than my servo!

Wally I totally understand ya. That’s why I asked for guys with experience with the same issue. I’d like to start out with what works.  I don’t want to have and buy things twice. Let’s get it right the first time. I Bought the 5100 a couple months ago,  first sewing machine I’ve ever owned or been closer than 6’ too  I realized a smaller but not whimpy machine would fit right in.  It’s going to be a total build on the setup and I’m going to go thru the machine also. Im 63 and have built or made just about everything.. looking forward to it !!!   

 I like the volume knob on them instead of the digital.  I don’t like having to reach under the table to turn it tho   Has to be a better way  I’m open for suggestions from you guys and gals.

 

[Thescandall]

I cleaned it up and oiled it good today. It’s really smooth by hand. It pics up the bobbin thread so timing is good.  I picked up the servo motor with the 45mm pully on it from Bob today as well. Ordered a K-leg stand  and will make a top for it myself. 
 Question.  Is there supposed to be a bolt in the end of the shaft to hold the pulley. I know there are 2 set screws but is that it? 
 I’ve looked all over the web and can’t find it on a parts diagram. 

[Thescandall]

The only part I find that’s missing is the upper thread guide and the little clip that Goes at the needle was broke but I found them both online. 
 

Edited April 5, 2022 by Thescandall

[Thescandall]

Started working on the table today. Glued and screwed 2 pieces of 3/4” together for atop.i contacked cemented a piece of FRP on top too. I’ll put the metal edges on it tomorrow.  I bought a consew k frame and fitted it all together. Recessed the top and cut the hole for the machine. I found 2 of the original hinges for the top to push it open and closed but I’m at the ranch already and the wife just called and told me the hinges and the servo motor from Bob showed up after I left so I’m kinda shut down for a bit..  it’s coming along....  

Edited April 9, 2022 by Thescandall

[CowboyBob]

On 4/4/2022 at 8:23 PM, Thescandall said:

I cleaned it up and oiled it good today. It’s really smooth by hand. It pics up the bobbin thread so timing is good.  I picked up the servo motor with the 45mm pully on it from Bob today as well. Ordered a K-leg stand  and will make a top for it myself. 
 Question.  Is there supposed to be a bolt in the end of the shaft to hold the pulley. I know there are 2 set screws but is that it? 
 I’ve looked all over the web and can’t find it on a parts diagram. 

It's odd you have that much shaft sticking out,it's usually flush.There is a collar cast into the other side of the pulley is it on there?Yes the 2-screws are all that holds it to the shaft.

Edited April 9, 2022 by CowboyBob

[Thescandall]

48 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

It's odd you have that much shaft sticking out,it's usually flush.There is a collar cast into the other side of the pulley is it on there?Yes the 2-screws are all that holds it to the shaft.

I moved it out and retightened the screws when I saw how others looked. No, now there is a gap between it and the machine. I could make a spacer for it if it needs one tho. 

 The servo motor showed up yesterday. Thanks a bunch Bob. 

Edited April 9, 2022 by Thescandall

[Thescandall]

I did a test stitch by hand turning the wheel.  Nice looking stitch I think. 

[Thescandall]

Here is the set of old hinges I found for the table. Paid 18.00 for them. Odd that they we’re only a hundred miles from me here in Texas. Got here fast. 

 

Edited April 9, 2022 by Thescandall

[CowboyBob]

On 4/9/2022 at 8:24 AM, Thescandall said:

Here is the set of old hinges I found for the table. Paid 18.00 for them. Odd that they we’re only a hundred miles from me here in Texas. Got here fast. 

 

The stitching looks pretty good.Here's a pic of the collar on the inside of the handwheel it's just alittle under 3/8" & also a pic of the standard old style of hinges for an industrial machine,while the ones you have will work they are for a home machine & the pivot pin is much thinner.

111w flywheel.html

[Thescandall]

1 hour ago, CowboyBob said:

The stitching looks pretty good.Here's a pic of the collar on the inside of the handwheel it's just alittle under 3/8" & also a pic of the standard old style of hinges for an industrial machine,while the ones you have will work they are for a home machine & the pivot pin is much thinner.

111w flywheel.html 443.12 kB · 0 downloads

Gotcha.  Your pics didn’t want to come thru when I tried them. 
 I have another issue with the needle bar. Somehow it slipped when I was hand turning the wheel to check the stitch length. I know how to tighten the clamp screw but do I just set it back to the hook now or is there a certain distance it needs to be from the needle plate when all the way down. 

[Wyowally]

I'm enjoying following your experience with the 111W155 because it is very much like my own last year. Won't overload you or the forum with details, as most of them were posted here anyway. Just want to say I love the machine, it has been really worth it, and more than meets my needs. I even repainted it and installed new decals, because it is not leaving here.  My most perplexing questions involved the internal feed lifting eccentric - to the point I bought a new one (not needed!) just so I could understand what it does and how it is supposed to work. Have fun!

 

[Thescandall]

Wally. I was joking when I said I was an authority on working on this machine. I don’t know squat about it. Seems like a new issue every day pops up till I get it right. This needle bar screw (clamp screw) is the next issue. I need a new one and now the search is on.  It’s exhausting searching google, past posts here and watching you tube. 
 I think I’m close, but now I’m reading an entire military manual trying to familiar myself on it. 
  Soon I hope!!!

[CowboyBob]

I was working on a machine last Sat. that needed one & found out we are out of them,I will be ordering more soon.It is screw #200082.Here's a parts list for the machine herehttps://www.supsew.com/download/Singer/Singer 111W155.pdf

[Thescandall]

Bob. You are the man. Everyone talks about how great to work with you have been and I have to admit they are right. I might get this machine to stitchin after all now. 
Thanks again.

I notice that particular # is not on the parts list tho. No wonder it’s so hard to find.  
It looks like that is the thread guide screw. I need the one that clamps the needle bar inside the head. 

Edited April 11, 2022 by Thescandall

[Thescandall]

ok i think this is it   200086ALX 16720  Needle Bar Connecting Stud Pinch Screw, for 208552.

im saving that parts you sent link in my favorite places.  

[Thescandall]

  

page 36 of 41 shows the needle bar and the part it hooks to.  that's where to find the part.  i know there have been a few looking for it also.. Cambell/ Randall has them.... bought 2..

Edited April 12, 2022 by Thescandall

[CowboyBob]

9 hours ago, Thescandall said:

  

page 36 of 41 shows the needle bar and the part it hooks to.  that's where to find the part.  i know there have been a few looking for it also.. Cambell/ Randall has them.... bought 2..

 

[Wyowally]

23 hours ago, Thescandall said:

Wally. I was joking when I said I was an authority on working on this machine. I don’t know squat about it. Seems like a new issue every day pops up till I get it right. This needle bar screw (clamp screw) is the next issue. I need a new one and now the search is on.  It’s exhausting searching google, past posts here and watching you tube. 
 I think I’m close, but now I’m reading an entire military manual trying to familiar myself on it. 
  Soon I hope!!!

I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular!  Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others.  I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe, but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.

[Thescandall]

2 hours ago, Wyowally said:

I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular!  Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others.  I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.

 i have that roller.  it came on the machine . the shaft was a little bent from sitting on it, instead of it being taken off.  but this machine sat for years, really decades i would guess.  i purchased a knee lift kit that works great altho i put it on before the motor so it might have to come off. until after i install the motor tomorrow .. i thought that little roller was cool too. it was kinda froze up but a little scrubbing and oil and it freed right up. 

this place is a wealth of info for someone like me having never even wondered how a sewing machine works.. absolutely clueless till a couple months ago. hell computers were magic until i was about 45.  at 63 now sewing machines are.. someone must have been racking their brain to even come up with the concept.

this little machine seems more complicated than my 5100 for some reason, i guess because it aint broke. lol

 Bob i see the difference in the hinges now.  They do look stronger than these, but if these work im fine..

 as far as the gap behind my drive wheel i cant say.    mine has that 3/8 spacer also.. hmmm

Edited April 12, 2022 by Thescandall