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Posted

Holster before dye on left after dye and finish on right.

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  • Contributing Member
Posted
14 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Yes, I'm dyeing :) to know what I'm doing wrong.  Using veg tan leather, I first dyed it using Eco-Flo Leather Dye.  (After having learned from experience that the veg tan shrinks when it's dyed or made wet.)  When it was dry, I cut out my pattern and then stitched the front and back pieces together.  Then I made it wet in order to form it around the item and that is when I got covered with the dye.  (Of course that Eco-Flo dye is water based.)

Should I have finished the leather with Satin Sheen (or something else) after dyeing it and before wet forming it?  I'd been afraid that if I applied some finishing coat I wouldn't be able to wet form the leather.  Would that have happened?  Would I still be able to wet form the leather after dyeing and finishing it?

(This is another Apple AirPro Pro case, following a YouTube tutorial by Totuia.  Unfinished... work in  progress drying...)

 

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Dyed after wet mold and did some toning around the edges on the belt and holster but not to dark I don't like the dark toning look.

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  • Contributing Member
Posted
14 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

Yes, I'm dyeing :) to know what I'm doing wrong.  Using veg tan leather, I first dyed it using Eco-Flo Leather Dye.  (After having learned from experience that the veg tan shrinks when it's dyed or made wet.)  When it was dry, I cut out my pattern and then stitched the front and back pieces together.  Then I made it wet in order to form it around the item and that is when I got covered with the dye.  (Of course that Eco-Flo dye is water based.)

Should I have finished the leather with Satin Sheen (or something else) after dyeing it and before wet forming it?  I'd been afraid that if I applied some finishing coat I wouldn't be able to wet form the leather.  Would that have happened?  Would I still be able to wet form the leather after dyeing and finishing it?

(This is another Apple AirPro Pro case, following a YouTube tutorial by Totuia.  Unfinished... work in  progress drying...)

 

IMG_0081.JPG

Roon blackening and finishing after wet mold I realize it's not the only way to do things it just works for me sorry for all the pics just wanted to show you how it works hope it helps .

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Posted
10 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

I'm old school, and as such, I don't use ANY of the new water based ANYTHING. That being said, I have never had any of my parts 'shrink' from dying with spirit dyes. I understand that there are issues ordering these, but I think I'd put up with that rather than use a product that is giving unsatisfactory results. I'll save the water for making coffee and beer. :cheers:

I guess you're all right... it was the water-based dye which caused the problem.  But I'm surprised to hear spirit dyes haven't caused any shrinkage for you, I mean, the leather still gets wet, doesn't it?  And doesn't getting the leather wet cause it to shrink?  (One of my last projects had a pattern piece that was 7 3/8" long and after getting it wet with my dye, it shrunk to only 7" which is why I now dye a larger piece before cutting my pattern.)  The only thing using a spirit based dye would solve would be the running of color if after dyeing you make it wet to mold.  Or does that somehow help reduce or eliminate the shrinkage also?

5 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

I dye before I cut out then sew then wet mould. Works for me

What dye are you using?  Not water-based?

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
6 hours ago, Dwight said:

I cut out . . . usually oversized . . . wet mold as needed

Glue pieces together where needed . . . trim off excess  . . .  and sew

Give a light coat of neatsfoot oil on the hair side only

Dye and polish . . . polish . . .  polish . . . and did I mention polish

Add final finish

May not work for everyone . . . but it does for me

May God bless,

Dwight

That's what I've been trying to do (with the few projects I've done so far) but this particular one has the gluing and sewing of the two parts before the wet moulding. 

I guess I'll try to get some spirit based dye to solve the color running problem.

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
2 hours ago, Samalan said:

 Yes that's exactly what I'm saying to do. let it dry somewhat on the mold with air movement like a fan you don't need heat just the fan then remove the mold let it dry some more then revisit the mold once more make sure it's good don't wet again just put the mold in dry.

Okay, next time I try this particular piece I'll save the dyeing and and surface finishing until the very end.  After cutting, gluing and stitching the pieces and wet moulding.  I'll also try to get some spirit-based dye.

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

Posted
1 hour ago, Samalan said:

Roon blackening and finishing after wet mold I realize it's not the only way to do things it just works for me sorry for all the pics just wanted to show you how it works hope it helps .

 

Don't apologize!  The photos show the terrific work you've done.  Thank you.  I don't think you answered what kind of dye you use... spirit based?

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • Contributing Member
Posted
6 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Don't apologize!  The photos show the terrific work you've done.  Thank you.  I don't think you answered what kind of dye you use... spirit based?

Yes spirit based dye with the exception of the black roon, that is steel wool and vinegar but still done after assembly .

  • Contributing Member
Posted
20 minutes ago, MtlBiker said:

Don't apologize!  The photos show the terrific work you've done.  Thank you.  I don't think you answered what kind of dye you use... spirit based?

Yes spirit based dye with the exception of the black roon, that is steel wool and vinegar but still done after assembly . last one I promise wet mold then dye this is dye not roon.

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Posted

Does anyone here know the difference between Fiebings "Leather Dye" and their "Pro Dye"?  The Tandy US site lists both and implies the Pro dye is newer and improved but the Canadian site only lists the regular Leather Dye.  The shipping of these products is a pain as there is a $15 surcharge on top of regular courier shipping charges.  And they say they can only ship Purolator and not Canada Post.

Current machines: Janome HD3000 and Skyline S5, Consew 206RB-5, Singer Profinish serger, Techsew 2750 PRO, Sailrite LSZ-1 Premium, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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