Swiss Saddler Clam Drawings

[ClaimedVacancy]

Update #7:

I filled and redrilled the moveable arm in order to reset the placement of it with the stationary arm. Much better now. The cam also makes 80% contact on the bearing surface inside. 
 

I also mounted the structure to a slab of cherry i had. Its fantastic. Doesn't move, doesn’t ask for permission. 
 

I used 1/4 x 20 pitch stainless inserts (EZ Lok) and a few long wood screws going into the plywood areas. 

Next actions will be the jaws. Im going to use some vintage phenolic blocks glued in. I tested it with wood glue and it worked great. It just tore the wood fibers instead of disbonding. This will hold leather very well and resist lots of wear.

Edited February 25 by ClaimedVacancy

[ClaimedVacancy]

Update #8:

Phenolic blocks glued in for today. 
I cut both sides of the jaws to match the thickness of the phenolic. Some minor sanding for a bit of time to make them square, and then glue. 

[dikman]

I would have just lined the jaws with thick leather, won't mark what you're clamping and has a little bit of give.

[ClaimedVacancy]

Update #9:

Jaws have been trimmed and shaped. 

The movable arm needed some bolstering so I routed out two areas to fill with phenolic strips. This turned out beautifully and gave me substantial strength in the plywood. The tip end of the movable arm flexed a lot at the tip end and this needed resolve. 

After all of the gluing and shaping i finished the parts in Tried and True Varnish Oil, and threw the spring in between the jaws. The spring is a 1” ID, .120” WG, 4 5/8” long spring found at ace hardware. This one has a working load of roughly 80 LBS and that is the sweet spot for the action. Stronger springs could absolutely be used. 
 

Next up is the locking system. I already have a working drawing, but need to source some better steel locally. It really needs to be 1/8” or thicker steel. Anything in the 16 gage is too flexible and does not contain the required temper to not flex. 

[ClaimedVacancy]

Side note: yes, titebond 3 will bond phenolic, micarta, etc to wood exceptionally well. This is great because it has a high resistance to wear and grips leather just as well. Its pretty non marring to the leather if it’s rounded over well. It’s a fun material to incorporate into this tool for leather working. 

[dikman]

That is a work-of-art in itself! Looking good.