making my own Stamps

[mauifarrier]

Great subject. I have made two stamps so far. This is my second one. It was a bugger to make, but the result is a nice 3D textured hibiscus flower. Stainless carriage bolt. Finished stamp measures about 1/2"

I used various files, a carbon scribe and diamond coated bits in the dremmel tool

Dont be afraid to try anything. Just do it in stainless, you'll be glad you did after investing all that time

Aloha,

Gretchen

[StrigaMort]

Certainly not perfect, but I really needed a mark. My shop is called Omega Leather.

Edited June 26, 2014 by StrigaMort

[Inth]

Hi Clair,

Thanks for your reply.... even if it's a sad story for that stamp : )

I was looking at shapeways for a bigger stamp (almost 2"x2") and I have ordered a plastic one before you had replied. At that size the stainless steel is not too affordable : ) But I can't wait to see how it's going to perform - even if I only get a couple good impressions out of it, it's going to have paid for it self and may get the stainless steel version when the plastic one is destroyed.

I can update this thread with the result of that stamp once I get it - I know I've been searching for this kind of information for a long time. : )

Hi Fullmetalsam

care to share some photos of your stamp and results ?

best regards

[steelhawk]

This is a great thread. After reading it I went to my favorite hardware store to check out the stainless bolts. The owner didn't know what the steel was but looked it up. It is 18-8.

Another place also sells 18-8 and some that are 316.

I looked up 18-8 and it said it was another name for 300 series steel, but wasn't specific on the actual number, like 304 used by the opening poster of this thread.

I don't really know if either one is good for making something like bevelers and shaders.

Edited February 11, 2015 by steelhawk

[camano ridge]

Any of the 300 series stainless will work fine. If you were going to be making something like a knife blade you would want 440, 440c or AU8 stainless.

Edited February 11, 2015 by camano ridge

[Hawk Scarbrough]

Brownells Gunsmithing Supplies

Metal Checkering Files, not inexpensive but you don't need them all at once and compared to custom stamps very affordable. Maybe start with a 50 LPI for smaller fine stamps and maybe a 30 LPI for larger stamps. You can also make smooth tools to try your skills and checker them later if you like making them. Using the checkering file takes some practice so don’t expect to get it right the first time but you will get it with some practice. You can always sand off the mistakes and try again. Once you get the lines started you just ride in the groves and deepen with each stroke until you get them where you want them. Keep a scrap of cased leather close through all of the stamp making process to test the impressions.

I plan to do some, when I can force myself to stop doing leather long enough. What I plan to make first are some larger and smaller versions of Tandy's double beveler. It saves a lot of time and tapping.

[Hawk Scarbrough]

I have started making my own Stamps and would like to share and have others that make their own Stamps share "How and What" they have made and are making.

I started out altering my Craftools after taking some leather carving seminars and getting to see and use quality stamps and experience the difference they made in my tooling. Not all of the hand tools I use are necessary to make stamps and none of the power tools are needed to make most of the stamps. So even on a limited budget you can make or alter stamps for better tooling results. I make my stamps 4¼" long because I have large hands and I find them more comfortable to hold for long periods of time. At first I did not finish the stems but I am starting to do that now. I texture the middle section with 36 grit abrasive belts, spin the stamp in the drill press and cut the groves with a hacksaw blade and polish both ends. The texturing is easier on my fingers over long periods and grips as well as checkering. I keep the striking surface square for better strikes.

Some of the stamps look lope sided in the picture but they are not, it's just my poor pictures.

For my blanks I use Stainless Steel Bolts (304 stainless) diameter ¼" 5/16" 3/8" Head sizes 7/16", ½", 9/16" with long unthreaded shanks and Stainless Steel 1/4 " rod.

Some of the hand tools I use are small jewelers files, checkering files 20, 30, 40, 50 and 75 lines per inch, mill and smooth bastard files, jewelers saw, hack saw, vise and sand paper. Power tools include a drill press, belt sander (Burr King 870 with knife makers attachments), Dremal tool, Dental hand-piece and a buffer (3/4 hp. Baldor).

Latter I will post some special stamps that I made to assist me in tooling.

I would like to here what you are making and any tips you have for making them.

I would very much like to see a single impression on leather of the stamps together with a picture of each stamp. Yea, I know I'm a lot of trouble. If I'm too much, ignore

[lorcan81]

How were you able to get the "cross thread" or "small diamonds" on the bottom?

[TLP]

What are the proportions on a basketweave stamp, length to height, and how much of the width (%) should be devoted to the center section vs the two sides?

[dm110]

A very easy tutorial with pics for beginners in this link

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44932

dead thread as of 2007, no pics that I can find