making my own Stamps

[TexasLady]

7/4/11

Hi candyleather,

I don't see your name on either of the Threads at these two links you've given. I wanted to see your Stamps. But then, I see on your profile that you haven't posted since 2008. Do you ever come around any more? Thanks. - TexasLady

My own stamps in the forum

http://www.leatherwo...p?showtopic=671

http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.p...pic=673&hl=

Edited July 4, 2011 by TexasLady

[DemBrodaz]

Hi Robert,

wonderful contents on the subject, but as it is quite an old post...the links aren't working anymore.

Would it be possible to repost them?

Thank you for your help!

Gergo

[/font]

Making your own tools

12-8-07

Tools I used for this project

Bench grinder

Mill file

Coarse emery cloth

Medium emery cloth

600 grit wet/dry sandpaper

1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper

Rag wheel on bench grinder, with Ryobi stainless polishing compound

Rag wheel on hand held drill with white rouge

Brownells checkering file – 75 Lines per inch

Hacksaw (to cut the threads off)

Magnifying glasses

I work on tools away from my leather bench… you don't want metal filings on your bench or on your leather.

For this project, I am going to make a Sheridan style thumbprint. Pear shaders and Thumbprints are easiest to make because they relatively easy, and I, for one, like to have a variety – different sizes, long lined, cross lined, cross hatched, etc., and if they are slightly different shapes, so much the better. Thumbprints have a flatter bottom and are not generally walked like a pearshader, so this particular tool is pretty flat, but make it any way that suits you. Also, many thumbprints don't taper to a point on the end, and are used essentially as two different tools – each end is a different size and can be used as needed. However, I like having a more tapered end that will fit into the end of my "stickers" or "vines", whatever you call them.

Leaf liners and center liners are easy too – they look flat on the face but have a slight curvature.

Bevelers have to be shaped right or they leave tracks, and you want you different size bevellers to have the same angle, so they are a little tougher, but not too bad.

For the thumbprint in this project, the general process I followed is:

1. I use stainless steel bolts, at least 5.5 inches long (I have started using 6"). I typically use 3 sizes – ¼, 5/16, and 3/8. The smaller ones are less than $2 each, and the larger are just over $2. You can use regular bolts or nails or anything, just check for corrosion before you use it – just stamp it on some scrap. I used regular zinc covered bolts for a while, and they work just fine – I have several that are part of my regularly used tools.

2. Leave the bolt threads on – you can use that to clamp in your vise while you work, then saw them off. I like tools with a final length of either 4.25" or 4.5" long.

3. Draw the rough shape of your tool on the bolt head with a Sharpie. This gives you a rough idea of how much metal to remove on a grinder before you get to the more detailed work.

4. Use a grinder to rough out the outside shape – I do this very rough. I don't try to do any curvature with a grinder (for example, I don't do the bottom of a shader with the grinder). Picture 1 is the tool and the impression when I finish with the grinder. Note it is very rough, and large. The grinder is just for bulk metal removal… but it takes too much off too fast to be used for detail work.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4390.jpg

5. Once you have the rough shape, use a mill file to give you tool shape. I find it easiest to have a finished tool to compare to as I go. Many tools have subtle curves that you don't really notice until you try to make your own. Stamp your new tool into test leather often to make sure you are getting the shape you want. Note the second impression – it is a little smaller, and has a little more shape. This is about the point I stop using the file and go to emory cloth.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4394.jpg

6. Continue to refine the shape. Once you are happy with the rough shape, use coarse emory cloth to put the final shape to it. Impression #3 is about the point at which I stopped using the coarse emory cloth. The scrap in the picture is to give you an idea of how often I am testing the stamp as I go.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4395.jpg

7. Continue to refine the shape - use medium emory cloth then 600 grit to work out the grinder and file marks. Impression #4 is taken while I was using the medium emory cloth. See how much smaller the stamp is getting? Don't take too much off with the grinder… it is easy to make a tool smaller, but you can't make it larger!

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4396.jpg

8. At this point, I will clean up the tool and take it to my bench and do some testing with it. Typically, that leads me back to step 6 with the coarse emory cloth. Repeat as many times as necessary (hey, nobody said this was simple J). Impression #5 is taken while I was working with the 600 grit paper in the testing stage. See on the face of the tool – you can see very fine marks that I haven't worked out yet – I will work those out too.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4398.jpg

9. Once you like the shape, use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to put a nice polish on it. Then I put the smooth tool to use and make sure it walks if it is a walking tool, and just generally make sure it is going to work.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4399.jpg

6. Then polish with a rag wheel on a bench grinder (I use rouge for stainless first, followed by a different wheel with white rouge on it). Then it is time for the lining tool. On this tool, I am using a 75 LPI file from Brownells (www.brownells.com). I try to get one end of the tool face, then line it up and get the other end of the tool face. I use magnifying glasses to get the lines lined up after I have run the file across the face once. It is tough to line them up, and takes practice. Don't be afraid to file off the lines and start again. The good news is that, even it isn't perfect, nobody will notice on your leather! I studied one of my good tools from a custom maker under a magnifying glass, and the lines aren't perfect, but you can't tell that in the stamp impression.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4400.jpg

7. Then back to the scrap, to test some more now that the lining is done.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4402.jpg

8. Once you are happy with it, take a fine brush and some household cleaner (even a tooth brush) and clean out any filings, and clean up the metal dust. Then cut the tool to the right length with a hacksaw and clean up the rough end. Do some final polishing, then you have your finished tool!

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4403.jpg

9. Here are a few tools I have made. There are a couple of leaf liners, a small and a medium thumbprint, a set of fine bevelers (75 LPI) and a set of coarser bevelers (50 LPI), and a veiner.

http://i109.photobuc...06/IMG_4404.jpg

I will probably put these tools on E-bay over time, so if anybody wants any of them, let me know.

Hope this is helpful. Have fun… jump in and start filing – that's the best way to learn.

[robert]

Hi Robert,

wonderful contents on the subject, but as it is quite an old post...the links aren't working anymore.

Would it be possible to repost them?

Thank you for your help!

Gergo

Wow... yes, this is an old post, but it has lots of great info from lots of people. I am glad my tutorial has been helpful. I think these are the photos I used. A couple may be out of order, but the first few have numbers written by each impression - that should get you going pretty well. The last photo wasnt on the original post, but is a notebook I submitted to the Texas State Fair a few years ago. The floral tooling is done with the shopmade stamps shown. I hope this helps.

Robert

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4390.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4394.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4395.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4396.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4398.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4399.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4400.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4402.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4403.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4404.jpg

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/Leather/IMG_4108.jpg

[gtwister09]

I created a PDF of Robert's post after the crash so it is not perfect text wise but it does have the photos linked within the PDF. Hope that helps.

Robert Woods - Making your own tools.pdf

Regards,

Ben

[joefarmer]

Here are a couple sheets about making stamping tools.

Joefarmer

[Chef niloc]

1258655529[/url]' post='131649']

Excellent thread, pushed me over the edge to try my hand at making my first stamp.

I have only seen stamps on the internet so the first thing I had to do was to measure on my computer screen what the relation between length and width should be. I found some nice examples of stamps and decided to go for a single rope configuration close to what Barry King makes.

The tools:

A Dremel (saves a lot of elbow grease) with different cutting wheels.

Sandpaper (400 grit, 1000 grit).

Two small files, a triangular and a flat.

A stainless bolt.

Hearing protection.

Safety glasses.

So from this:

I transformed it to this:

It is not perfect (I am not Barry King ) but good enough to make me want to keep on making my own stamps. I am going to work on the "teeth" and make them a bit smaller so I get an even better shading effect.

I am very satisfied knowing that if I have the time I can make most of the stamps I need. My leather crafting skill is just at a beginner level but I would definitely try something more advanced than a regular basket weave pattern in the future.

To anyone hesitating to start a project like this: This is the first item I have ever made in steel. I have no education in producing stuff. If you plan on doing something like this instead of buying a stamp, try it! Take it easy, go slow with the decisions on how to make the next cut. Leave one or two tenths of a millimetre as a margin when you are cutting with your dremel (might sound small but in no time you will notice deviations that small). Remove the rest with files and/or sanding paper. Take a lot of breaks in between cuts so that you always plan ahead. And do not forget your safety glasses and hearing protection.

I will take the opportunity to thank Chuck Barrows and Bob Park, for their excellent tutorials on how to sew leather and finish it properly.

A big thank you also goes out to the nice people in this forum giving a lot of advice to newbies like me. Without you I would probably have been stumbling in the dark for years before achieving any results worth mentioning.

I will post some pictures of my work in the future, together with a proper introduction. Now where is that link so I can order some pitch and start brewing my own thread wax.

I believe I am hooked.

/Juha (Sweden)

Wow !I was looking threw this thread trying to figure out how basket weaves were made. They just seem so intricate and impossible to make, I couldn't even think we're to start. You did a amazing job! It's been a few years I'd love to see how you work has progressed

[kayw]

made a set of matching low angle bevelers in seven sizes. They are cut at a 15 degree angle and are checkered with a #4 file.

ClayM.

Hi Clay, say - how did you do the knurling on your tools above? It looks very professional. KayW

[Clay]

Hi Clay, say - how did you do the knurling on your tools above? It looks very professional. KayW

I used a scissor type knurling tool on the lathe.

Clay

[jmkjmk2]

I have started making my own Stamps and would like to share and have others that make their own Stamps share "How and What" they have made and are making.

I started out altering my Craftools after taking some leather carving seminars and getting to see and use quality stamps and experience the difference they made in my tooling. Not all of the hand tools I use are necessary to make stamps and none of the power tools are needed to make most of the stamps. So even on a limited budget you can make or alter stamps for better tooling results. I make my stamps 4¼" long because I have large hands and I find them more comfortable to hold for long periods of time. At first I did not finish the stems but I am starting to do that now. I texture the middle section with 36 grit abrasive belts, spin the stamp in the drill press and cut the groves with a hacksaw blade and polish both ends. The texturing is easier on my fingers over long periods and grips as well as checkering. I keep the striking surface square for better strikes.

Some of the stamps look lope sided in the picture but they are not, it's just my poor pictures.

For my blanks I use Stainless Steel Bolts (304 stainless) diameter ¼" 5/16" 3/8" Head sizes 7/16", ½", 9/16" with long unthreaded shanks and Stainless Steel 1/4 " rod.

Some of the hand tools I use are small jewelers files, checkering files 20, 30, 40, 50 and 75 lines per inch, mill and smooth bastard files, jewelers saw, hack saw, vise and sand paper. Power tools include a drill press, belt sander (Burr King 870 with knife makers attachments), Dremal tool, Dental hand-piece and a buffer (3/4 hp. Baldor).

Latter I will post some special stamps that I made to assist me in tooling.

I would like to here what you are making and any tips you have for making them.

[Steve Lowe]

Thank you to ghstrydr164 for starting this thread and to everyone who has added their input.

I went to the renaissance festival a while ago and bought a leather bound book because the tooling was great and the girl that ran the booth said she made all of her own stamps and had them on site to proove it.

I have been obsessed with making my own stamps and could not find anything in YouTube or elsewhere. Maybe I hit the end of the internet because this was the last place I looked. HA HA wink wink. nudge nudge...

Now I am off to get a vise. I already have the files and dremmel tools needed. I collect tools when I need them and have never needed.... "NEEDED" a vise until now.

I have all these designs in my head and now I just need to get them on some steel.

Quick general question:

I see where I can click to "Watch this topic, but is there anywhere I can mark the page to come back to it later? I big into backpacking and I am part of the hammock fourms and they keep a list of threads that you mark, or are "watching" as it were.

I dont see where I can go to a list. If I want to add more stuff here, I feel like I have to wait until someone posts and I am e-mailed that a new post has been posted.

Am I making sense? Where is my list of threads that I am watching?

Wooooooo whoooooooo time for some stamp making.

Thanks again to all.