flooring the pedal

[Go2Tex]

Maybe I'm just getting so good with it, but after my recent move it seems the machine doesn't want to go as fast as I'd like. I had to disassemble and reassemble it for the move and in the process I made some adjustments to the belt tension. It was beginning to slip a bit. Now I'm flooring the pedal and asking for more and it just ain't there.

Waazzup?

[Randy Cornelius]

OK, I think I know the answer to this one. Look on the servo motor, On the left side (end)as you are setting at the machine there will be a little red switch. That little switch changes the motor speed from slow to fast. If you will look I presume that the switch got flipped in your move. If that does not do the trick check the chain running from the foot peddle up to the motor. Maybe there is too much slack and not letting the machine run at full speed.

Hope this helps.

Randy

[Artisan Dave]

Hi,

One more thing to look at - and that is the Black knob on the end cover of the motor - this is also a speed adjustment. Rotate the knob and then try your machine.

There are 2 V-Belts on your set-up. One goes from the motor to the Speed Reducer and the other from the Speed Reducer to the Hand Wheel of your machine. Make sure they are both tightly adjusted.

Although unlikely, it is possible that something in your move (or maybe not even related to the move) has damaged your motor.

Here at Artisan, we don't ask any questions - if it is not working properly we will replace it under warranty. Please give us a call at 1-888-838-1408.

Steve heads up our Customer Service Department - ask for him or me and we will take care of your problem immediately if you have not resolved it yourself.

In fact - even if it was the speed controls on the back of the motor - I would appreciate you posting that just so I know everything is working properly.

Thanks

[Go2Tex]

Yep, that done it! Thanks. It's plenty fast, jes like befoe!

...Now, if I could only figure out why in hell the bobbin thread tension keeps messin' up. One time it's laying on the bottom surface and the next time it's in the middle where it's supposed to be and the next time it's up on top.

If I change bobbins, it seems to correct itself, then, I believe it's usually toward the end of the bobbin thread, it tightens up again and the knot is laying on the bottom surface.

I like the machine. It does the work. But one thing I can't figure out is why Artisan can't publish a comprehensive, well illustrated FRIGGIN MANUAL????!!!!!!

P.S. - I checked and found the "black knob"..... and it actually has a little decal that says, appropriately enough, "KNOB". Unfortunately for me and all the other users, they neglected to add the rest of the decal that explains what the little "knob" does. Yeah, that would really help. And, not only that folks, but it would be nice if this was even mentioned in the non-existent manual. I think I've had this machine for about 2 years now and I recall asking about a manual for the 3000 at that time. I told Steve the illustrations really were terrible. To this day, I can't look at the picture and know for sure if I even have this thing threaded correctly.

Edited November 6, 2007 by Go2Tex

[Art]

Hi Tex,

The bobbin tension increases because it has to pull the bobbin around faster (more times for the same amount of thread because of the decreasing diameter of the bobbin) when there is less thread on the bobbin. Simple physics. It is not uncommon to make minor adjustments to tension as you sew over any length of time, usually if sewing thick material you don't notice the minor changes that occur over time because the lock is somewhere in that thick piece, you only see it when you see the lock appear on the top or bottom usually. There are newer machines (usually the home sewing ones) that have automatic tensions, damned if I can figure out how they work (or don't). I still prefer the manual tension you can change when and if you WANT to.

Tensions are very much a part of forming and executing the stitch on threaded needle machines as opposed to needle and awl machines where timing and mechanics are used to do the same thing. Since tension is so important on the machines we use today, it is advisable for any operator to become very familiar with setting the tension. I know if you screw it up it can be a pain and even a terror for a new operator to get it right again and then you don't want to touch it ever again; but it is the most important thing for a machine operator to learn.

As far as manuals go, the industrial machines only have manuals because they have to, nobody reads them because machines like we use are a design that has been around since the late 19th century and in the case of industrial machines everyone knows how to use them (at least that is the perception), and there is always OJT. There have been a few operator training tapes made for specific machines or groups of machines, but they sold only a few copies, so they don't waste the time and money doing them anymore, and it costs quite a bit to do one right.

Art

Yep, that done it! Thanks. It's plenty fast, jes like befoe!

...Now, if I could only figure out why in hell the bobbin thread tension keeps messin' up. One time it's laying on the bottom surface and the next time it's in the middle where it's supposed to be and the next time it's up on top.

If I change bobbins, it seems to correct itself, then, I believe it's usually toward the end of the bobbin thread, it tightens up again and the knot is laying on the bottom surface.

I like the machine. It does the work. But one thing I can't figure out is why Artisan can't publish a comprehensive, well illustrated FRIGGIN MANUAL????!!!!!!

P.S. - I checked and found the "black knob"..... and it actually has a little decal that says, appropriately enough, "KNOB". Unfortunately for me and all the other users, they neglected to add the rest of the decal that explains what the little "knob" does. Yeah, that would really help. And, not only that folks, but it would be nice if this was even mentioned in the non-existent manual. I think I've had this machine for about 2 years now and I recall asking about a manual for the 3000 at that time. I told Steve the illustrations really were terrible. To this day, I can't look at the picture and know for sure if I even have this thing threaded correctly.

[esantoro]

I agree, getting comfortable with adjusting tension, to me, seems to be one of the most important tasks to learn on these heavy stitchers.

I was told when I got my machine that I would rarely if ever have to adjust the bobbin tension. But then I always end up doing something that doesn't fit that general rule and feel that I've got to adjust the bobbin tension. Then I wasn't sure if I had adjusted it too much or not enough. At one time I was even looking for a tension gauge that could be used to tell me how much force is required to pull out the bobbin thread. It seems that these are made primarily for home machines.

I had gotten to the point where I think the bobbin tension was just too tight, a tad bit painful on the skin to pull the bobbin thread out. Then I backed off. Now I'm of the understanding that the bobbin tension screw should never be so tight that pulling the bobbin thread out is too difficult. It should always pull out smoothly, but not loosely. Following this rule, I never get knots on the top of the leather. In fact, I would venture to say that the knots are closer to the bottom than they are to the top.

This whole tension business seems to be just one of those things you learn to read. At one point I had wanted to ask the group, how everyone would describe their bobbin thread tension,and how often they feel they have to deviate from that setting.

One plan I also had at one time is that once I felt I had the ultimate tension set, I'd then go around the house looking for a household items of varied weights that could be tied to the bobbin thread with the thread barely being pulled out further, some sort of scale: can of peas, can of tomato paste, etc. I never have tried this. Now I just stick to the rule that the bobbin thread should always be pulled out relatively easily.

I still would like to know how everyone describes his bobbin thread tension.

Ed

[Artisan Dave]

You can download - or just look at - the complete manual on our website.

click on Manuals - and then on the TORO 3000 icon.

Or.... email me and I will mail you a copy if you give me your mailing address.

sorry about all this.

[Go2Tex]

............I still would like to know how everyone describes his bobbin thread tension.

Ed

Well, you know how I'd describe my bobbin tension.... "really messed up" most the time. I have it cranked down about as far as it will go. hmmmm..... maybe that's part of the problem. Trouble is, if I don't crank it down all the way, I end up with the knot laying on top of the stitches. So, I loosen the thread tensioner spring a bunch and the stitches don't seem to pull down tight.

I think what I need is good, hands on class. How 'bout it Artisan guys? Next saddle show? Or, how 'bout one of you other experts? Sign me up.

[Art]

Ok Tex,

Bobbin tension should be about a pound or two as a starting point, I don't have a gauge but that's how I would describe it. Now if you tighten the bobbin tension it will pull the lock down into the leather. Conversely, if you loosen the top tension a properly tensioned bobbin will cause the knot to go down into the leather, and if you loosen the top too much you will find the knot on the bottom.

So set the bobbin tension to a pound or two, but definitely something that resists your pull. Now just use the top tension and tighten the top tension to move the lock up into the leather towards the top. OR Loosen the top tension to move the lock down into the leather and to the bottom if you loosen the top too much.

Loosen Top to move lock down.

Tighten Top to move lock up.

Just do that and talk to us if it doesn't work. The only time you want to change bobbin tension is if you can't get the lock where you want it with top tension.

Art

Well, you know how I'd describe my bobbin tension.... "really messed up" most the time. I have it cranked down about as far as it will go. hmmmm..... maybe that's part of the problem. Trouble is, if I don't crank it down all the way, I end up with the knot laying on top of the stitches. So, I loosen the thread tensioner spring a bunch and the stitches don't seem to pull down tight.

I think what I need is good, hands on class. How 'bout it Artisan guys? Next saddle show? Or, how 'bout one of you other experts? Sign me up.

[steveb]

Well, you know how I'd describe my bobbin tension.... "really messed up" most the time. I have it cranked down about as far as it will go. hmmmm..... maybe that's part of the problem. Trouble is, if I don't crank it down all the way, I end up with the knot laying on top of the stitches. So, I loosen the thread tensioner spring a bunch and the stitches don't seem to pull down tight.

I think what I need is good, hands on class. How 'bout it Artisan guys? Next saddle show? Or, how 'bout one of you other experts? Sign me up.

i have found thsat small adjustments are usually all that is necessary for me to get a good stitch with my machines.

once you can set a baseline adjustment - all that should really be required is fine tuning and I do most of that with my needle thread, not my bobbin - i tend to leave the bobbin alone once i get it dialed in for that weight thread and since i usually run one of two sizes in my machines, i know where my base line is..i suspect youe got your bobbin way too tight and that will make a rats nest - try middle of the range adjustments - nothing should be on the 'end of the scale"

preface all of that with YMMV (your mileage may vary)

[sheathmaker]

Ok Tex,

Bobbin tension should be about a pound or two as a starting point, I don't have a gauge but that's how I would describe it. Now if you tighten the bobbin tension it will pull the lock down into the leather. Conversely, if you loosen the top tension a properly tensioned bobbin will cause the knot to go down into the leather, and if you loosen the top too much you will find the knot on the bottom.

So set the bobbin tension to a pound or two, but definitely something that resists your pull. Now just use the top tension and tighten the top tension to move the lock up into the leather towards the top. OR Loosen the top tension to move the lock down into the leather and to the bottom if you loosen the top too much.

Loosen Top to move lock down.

Tighten Top to move lock up.

Just do that and talk to us if it doesn't work. The only time you want to change bobbin tension is if you can't get the lock where you want it with top tension.

Art

Great post! good for the inexperienced and experienced alike. Thanks, Art.

Paul