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Posted

OK, I'm all about straps.  I like the wooden strap cutter particularly for narrow straps (3/8") but it has a tendency to wander on long cuts.  The author of this blog recommended the following modification to slightly tilt the blade and maintain a consistent feed. https://www.leatherlearn.com/2011/12/strap-cutter.html I'm guessing others have tried something like this or have other ideas.  I'd welcome your advice and ideas.

woodenstrapcutter-mod.jpg.3dc2b9294b359d7ff4f95c6329e07610.jpg

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Posted
56 minutes ago, TomE said:

OK, I'm all about straps.  I like the wooden strap cutter particularly for narrow straps (3/8") but it has a tendency to wander on long cuts.  The author of this blog recommended the following modification to slightly tilt the blade and maintain a consistent feed. https://www.leatherlearn.com/2011/12/strap-cutter.html I'm guessing others have tried something like this or have other ideas.  I'd welcome your advice and ideas.

woodenstrapcutter-mod.jpg.3dc2b9294b359d7ff4f95c6329e07610.jpg

I haven't had any trouble with mine wandering that wasn't due to "operator error".  Sometimes though and especially for narrow strips, I push the leather through from the back side instead of pulling it through.

  • CFM
Posted

I have the cardboard on the OTHER side of the tool. What you show has a wider strap going into a narrower exit, creating a bind.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

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Posted
49 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

I haven't had any trouble with mine wandering that wasn't due to "operator error".  Sometimes though and especially for narrow strips, I push the leather through from the back side instead of pulling it through.

I see a wandering cut when cutting 3/8" from a side of 9-10 oz leather.  For sure it's something about how I'm using the tool.  I think it's awkward to hold it steady on the edge of a hide.  A work around is to cut my narrow straps from a shorter piece of 1" strap since I don't need the length for narrow straps.  I cut the wider straps from sides using a draw gauge or plough gauge.  I'll try this strap cutter modification and report back.  Thought someone might have already tried it.

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Posted
3 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

I have the cardboard on the OTHER side of the tool. What you show has a wider strap going into a narrower exit, creating a bind.

Yes, that's true.  I thought the idea is to pinch the cut strap against the body of the strap cutter to stabilize it.  I'm thinking it's akin to the single bevel on the inside edge of a plough gauge knife.  Did you see an improvement with the shim on the other side of the strap cutter?

  • CFM
Posted

After the leather has passed the blade, it is not binding against the body of the cutter. It doesn't need to be tight past the blade, it just needs to stay tight AT the blade. I also punch a hole in the end of the strap that I hang on a screw hook under my bench so I can pull against that. 

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

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Posted
41 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

After the leather has passed the blade, it is not binding against the body of the cutter. It doesn't need to be tight past the blade, it just needs to stay tight AT the blade. I also punch a hole in the end of the strap that I hang on a screw hook under my bench so I can pull against that. 

I see what you're saying.  I am thinking the slightly angled blade puts pressure on the strap passing between the blade and body of the strap cutter.  This counters the tendency for a gap to open up between the edge of the strap and the body of the tool and keeps the strap feeding through at full width.  I can test it by placing the shim on either side of the tool and comparing results.

The other thing I don't like about my wooden strap cutter is that the metal disk that fixes the wooden bar in place turns together with the adjustment screw.  I think the clamping mechanism would work better if I could tighten the screw without the disk spinning around.  The screw is firmly seated in the disk.  Maybe if I can back the screw out a half turn then the disk will stop turning once it contacts the bar.  Not sure how this is supposed to work. 

  • CFM
Posted

If you take a center punch and tap a few places on the face of the disc it will create small 'volcano' craters. The raised edges will bite the wood and should stop the turning. Don't get too aggressive.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

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Posted
1 minute ago, tsunkasapa said:

If you take a center punch and tap a few places on the face of the disc it will create small 'volcano' craters. The raised edges will bite the wood and should stop the turning. Don't get too aggressive.

Thanks for the suggestion.  If I can break the disk free from the screw then I'll add a few craters.  Curved channel lock pliers might reach around the wooden housing to grip the disk.  My idea of a fun Friday night. :)

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Posted

Best I remember I used the  edge of a file and cut about 3  light v notches in mine . Like tsunkasapa said it doesn't take much .

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