Wooden Strap Cutter Modification

[TomE]

OK, I'm all about straps.  I like the wooden strap cutter particularly for narrow straps (3/8") but it has a tendency to wander on long cuts.  The author of this blog recommended the following modification to slightly tilt the blade and maintain a consistent feed. https://www.leatherlearn.com/2011/12/strap-cutter.html I'm guessing others have tried something like this or have other ideas.  I'd welcome your advice and ideas.

[sbrownn]

56 minutes ago, TomE said:

OK, I'm all about straps.  I like the wooden strap cutter particularly for narrow straps (3/8") but it has a tendency to wander on long cuts.  The author of this blog recommended the following modification to slightly tilt the blade and maintain a consistent feed. https://www.leatherlearn.com/2011/12/strap-cutter.html I'm guessing others have tried something like this or have other ideas.  I'd welcome your advice and ideas.

I haven't had any trouble with mine wandering that wasn't due to "operator error".  Sometimes though and especially for narrow strips, I push the leather through from the back side instead of pulling it through.

[tsunkasapa]

I have the cardboard on the OTHER side of the tool. What you show has a wider strap going into a narrower exit, creating a bind.

[TomE]

49 minutes ago, sbrownn said:

I haven't had any trouble with mine wandering that wasn't due to "operator error".  Sometimes though and especially for narrow strips, I push the leather through from the back side instead of pulling it through.

I see a wandering cut when cutting 3/8" from a side of 9-10 oz leather.  For sure it's something about how I'm using the tool.  I think it's awkward to hold it steady on the edge of a hide.  A work around is to cut my narrow straps from a shorter piece of 1" strap since I don't need the length for narrow straps.  I cut the wider straps from sides using a draw gauge or plough gauge.  I'll try this strap cutter modification and report back.  Thought someone might have already tried it.

[TomE]

3 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

I have the cardboard on the OTHER side of the tool. What you show has a wider strap going into a narrower exit, creating a bind.

Yes, that's true.  I thought the idea is to pinch the cut strap against the body of the strap cutter to stabilize it.  I'm thinking it's akin to the single bevel on the inside edge of a plough gauge knife.  Did you see an improvement with the shim on the other side of the strap cutter?

[tsunkasapa]

After the leather has passed the blade, it is not binding against the body of the cutter. It doesn't need to be tight past the blade, it just needs to stay tight AT the blade. I also punch a hole in the end of the strap that I hang on a screw hook under my bench so I can pull against that. 

[TomE]

41 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

After the leather has passed the blade, it is not binding against the body of the cutter. It doesn't need to be tight past the blade, it just needs to stay tight AT the blade. I also punch a hole in the end of the strap that I hang on a screw hook under my bench so I can pull against that. 

I see what you're saying.  I am thinking the slightly angled blade puts pressure on the strap passing between the blade and body of the strap cutter.  This counters the tendency for a gap to open up between the edge of the strap and the body of the tool and keeps the strap feeding through at full width.  I can test it by placing the shim on either side of the tool and comparing results.

The other thing I don't like about my wooden strap cutter is that the metal disk that fixes the wooden bar in place turns together with the adjustment screw.  I think the clamping mechanism would work better if I could tighten the screw without the disk spinning around.  The screw is firmly seated in the disk.  Maybe if I can back the screw out a half turn then the disk will stop turning once it contacts the bar.  Not sure how this is supposed to work. 

[tsunkasapa]

If you take a center punch and tap a few places on the face of the disc it will create small 'volcano' craters. The raised edges will bite the wood and should stop the turning. Don't get too aggressive.

[TomE]

1 minute ago, tsunkasapa said:

If you take a center punch and tap a few places on the face of the disc it will create small 'volcano' craters. The raised edges will bite the wood and should stop the turning. Don't get too aggressive.

Thanks for the suggestion.  If I can break the disk free from the screw then I'll add a few craters.  Curved channel lock pliers might reach around the wooden housing to grip the disk.  My idea of a fun Friday night. 

[Gezzer]

Best I remember I used the  edge of a file and cut about 3  light v notches in mine . Like tsunkasapa said it doesn't take much .

[TomE]

Thanks, @tsunkasapa and @Gezzer.  I added a few center punch craters and put a dab of anti seize compound on the threads. This Craftool cutter had thread locker on the threads holding the disk on the screw. Now it locks very nicely at the set width and stays there when I cut heavy straps. I used 3oz chrome tan instead of cardboard to make a shim to cant the blade. I have better luck with the shim on the side next to the blade instead of the opposite. At any rate, I’m happy with the modifications and cranking out 3/8” loop stock for fixed and running loops. Thanks for your suggestions. 

[TomE]

5 hours ago, sbrownn said:

I haven't had any trouble with mine wandering that wasn't due to "operator error".  Sometimes though and especially for narrow strips, I push the leather through from the back side instead of pulling it through.

Sorry my earlier reply didn’t get posted - operator error.  Thanks for your reply, @sbrownn. I am typically cutting straps from sides of 9-10 oz leather so I am drawing the tool along the edge. For sure it’s operator error and I’ll take all the help I can get. The above modifications seem to have improved the consistency of my narrow straps. 

[sbrownn]

1 hour ago, TomE said:

Sorry my earlier reply didn’t get posted - operator error.  Thanks for your reply, @sbrownn. I am typically cutting straps from sides of 9-10 oz leather so I am drawing the tool along the edge. For sure it’s operator error and I’ll take all the help I can get. The above modifications seem to have improved the consistency of my narrow straps. 

The problem I have with drawing the tool along the edge is that my pulling hand has a natural tendency to pull the backside of the tool away from the leather.  I find if I use my other hand to guide the leather from the back holding it against the flat back face of the tool I get better results.  The pushing technique I use developed from using my off hand at the back of the tool; since I don't fasten the other end of the leather down I don't have anything to pull against...hence the need to push.  

[sbrownn]

3 hours ago, TomE said:

The other thing I don't like about my wooden strap cutter is that the metal disk that fixes the wooden bar in place turns together with the adjustment screw. 

That is odd but it sounds like others have had the same problem.  I have had two of the tools and in both cases the disc was not attached to the adjusting screw at all and I don't know why anyone would want it to be attached...unless its to keep the disc from falling out?

[Gezzer]

 

4 hours ago, TomE said:

 

The other thing I don't like about my wooden strap cutter is that the metal disk that fixes the wooden bar in place turns together with the adjustment screw.  

I never had that problem because this is how mine is made . (SLC )

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TomE]

7 hours ago, sbrownn said:

The problem I have with drawing the tool along the edge is that my pulling hand has a natural tendency to pull the backside of the tool away from the leather.  I find if I use my other hand to guide the leather from the back holding it against the flat back face of the tool I get better results.  The pushing technique I use developed from using my off hand at the back of the tool; since I don't fasten the other end of the leather down I don't have anything to pull against...hence the need to push.  

Good advice when working with a piece of leather that can be picked up.  I typically buy sides and cut full length straps of various widths, leaving the belly for other projects.  The draw guage and plough gauge work well for wider straps.  I can cut narrow straps from scraps of wider straps using the wooden cutter and pushing the leather through.  

[sbrownn]

Yes, I agree.  I was talking about cutting narrow straps.  I cut the wider straps in the traditional manner by pulling but still use my off hand to guide and hold the the leather against the back flat behind the blade.  If I'm going to cut straps off of a whole side I start by using a 4' straight edge go get one good edge on the side and then work from there.  I assume that's probably how a lot of others do it as well?