spy glass case

[unicornwoman]

Well, the SIL changed her mind on the map case. She decided that it was going to cost too much in supplies or something, so she patched up what she had made (leather covered PVC pipe) and called it good.

However, she did have a 16 cm spy glass that she wanted a case for as she's into steam punk.

Previously, the only case work I've done was some covers for my X-acto & Scapel Blades and some glued miniature stuff. Nothing to prepare me for this!

It took about 3 weeks of all my spare time.

The belt loop, per her request, is fastened by snaps as she wanted to be able to attach it at will. She also plans to use 2 different widths of belts, so I used 3 snap caps and 2 studs to allow adjustment. The flap also has a snap. This was my first attempt at correctly attaching snaps in leather as I finally had the correct tools. (Don't ask how I was doing it the wrong way! LOL!) My maker's markings are under the loop.

My molding wasn't deep enough so I had to put a plug in the seam fit the scope. This made a nasty thick seam to sew through. I finally gave up and drilled the holes. They aren't exactly in a straight line -- how do you do THAT -- but the stitching covers it up pretty good and it's all so black, you really can't tell.

Slicking that thick seam was a chore. All I had was one of those plastic round slickers that came with the Tandy starter set...Hints on what I should have done appreciated here as well.

I cut out the front of the case so that the scope could be grasped for removal.

Well, it's done anyway.

Hints, comments, improvements, welcomed!

[AndyL1]

Well, the SIL changed her mind on the map case. She decided that it was going to cost too much in supplies or something, so she patched up what she had made (leather covered PVC pipe) and called it good.

However, she did have a 16 cm spy glass that she wanted a case for as she's into steam punk.

Previously, the only case work I've done was some covers for my X-acto & Scapel Blades and some glued miniature stuff. Nothing to prepare me for this!

It took about 3 weeks of all my spare time.

The belt loop, per her request, is fastened by snaps as she wanted to be able to attach it at will. She also plans to use 2 different widths of belts, so I used 3 snap caps and 2 studs to allow adjustment. The flap also has a snap. This was my first attempt at correctly attaching snaps in leather as I finally had the correct tools. (Don't ask how I was doing it the wrong way! LOL!) My maker's markings are under the loop.

My molding wasn't deep enough so I had to put a plug in the seam fit the scope. This made a nasty thick seam to sew through. I finally gave up and drilled the holes. They aren't exactly in a straight line -- how do you do THAT -- but the stitching covers it up pretty good and it's all so black, you really can't tell.

Slicking that thick seam was a chore. All I had was one of those plastic round slickers that came with the Tandy starter set...Hints on what I should have done appreciated here as well.

I cut out the front of the case so that the scope could be grasped for removal.

Well, it's done anyway.

Hints, comments, improvements, welcomed!

Looks pretty good to me. To make a straight line for the stitch holes, I use a stitch groover. This will give you a perfect line to sew through. Making a groove will also keep your threads down below the surface of the leather, if you make it deep enough. If that is the look you're going after. I also use a four-prong hole punch to make mine so I get the correct spacing all the time.

-Andy

Edited January 13, 2009 by AndyL1

[strapt]

As far as slicking a thicker edge, like when 3 layers of veg tan come together. My mentor recommends using the ceramic insulator from an electric fence. You should be able to pick these up anywhere that sells feed or farm tools. Maybe a Rural King or Tractor Supply.

Seems to work pretty well for him, I'm still trying to find time to get one of my own...

[tashabear]

I've always had good luck slicking edges with water, a rough cloth, and a bit of beeswax.

[unicornwoman]

Looks pretty good to me. To make a straight line for the stitch holes, I use a stitch groover. This will give you a perfect line to sew through. Making a groove will also keep your threads down below the surface of the leather, if you make it deep enough. If that is the look you're going after. I also use a four-prong hole punch to make mine so I get the correct spacing all the time.

-Andy

I did try the groover, though obviously need more practice with it. I had problem holding the dremel steady when I went to drill the holes and a bit of problem hitting the line on the back. Guess I need more practice.

I've always had good luck slicking edges with water, a rough cloth, and a bit of beeswax.

I did use a jean scrap and Gum Tragacanth for the final touch-up.

BTW, I really love using jean scraps in my crafting. They make super great clean-up rags for excess glue, etc. And, I have plenty as worn-out clothes do not get pitched, but tossed in the rag pile. I also use my rags scraps for "disposable paper towels".

[Spider]

Great looking Cigar Case...I mean....well, either way it's a great looking case.