Advice on holster restoration

[Wellington]

Hello, all,

I recently bought a pistol holster that is probably close to 40 years old, and I want to use it, and would like to "restore" it to make it look better cosmetically and also ensure its durability.

I'm not really a leatherworker, so I don't know what type of leather was used in it or much else, except that it was probably made in Germany in the 1980s. Here are links to some pictures (pics are fairly large so I didn't want to gum up the forum by uploading them here):

https://i.ibb.co/HKzTKSs/p7-holster-1.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/JckNsBV/p7-holster-2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/P1jMcDc/p7-holster-5.jpg

Would like to make the worn areas black and shiny/weatherproof again, if possible. Would also like to "reconsolidate" the leather where it's starting to "dog ear" near where the trigger guard of a P7 pistol would hit it upon insertion into the holster.

But since I'm not a leatherworker, and don't really have use for a lot of leatherworking chemicals/finishes, I would like to minimize the number of materials I need to buy.

Can anyone advise me? From reading online, I had sort of mapped out this plan of attack:

1. Clean the holster well with saddle soap and let it dry well.

2. Use Fiebing's black leather "stain" on the areas where the black finish has worn off, and let that dry well. (In reading online, I get the impression that "stain" would be better than "dye" for filling, leveling and leaving a smooth surface for subsequent coating with acrylic finish...is that about right?)

3. Finish with Fiebing's (black) Acrylic Resolene Protective Acrylic Finish for Leather, maybe 2 coats, and let that dry well.

4. Cover everything with a coat of carnauba wax to help rain/sweat roll off.

Does that sound reasonable? Are there materials that would be better to use for this job? I'd really appreciate any and all advice anyone could offer.

Best regards, and thank you in advance for any help (or at least for reading my long post!)

W.

P.S. I wasn't sure whether to post this here in the conversation sub-forum or the "finishes/chemicals" subforum, so if I've put it in the wrong place, I apologize.

Edited November 19, 2022 by Wellington

[chuck123wapati]

46 minutes ago, Wellington said:

Hello, all,

I recently bought a pistol holster that is probably close to 40 years old, and I want to use it, and would like to "restore" it to make it look better cosmetically and also ensure its durability.

I'm not really a leatherworker, so I don't know what type of leather was used in it or much else, except that it was probably made in Germany in the 1980s. Here are links to some pictures (pics are fairly large so I didn't want to gum up the forum by uploading them here):

https://i.ibb.co/HKzTKSs/p7-holster-1.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/JckNsBV/p7-holster-2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/P1jMcDc/p7-holster-5.jpg

Would like to make the worn areas black and shiny/weatherproof again, if possible. Would also like to "reconsolidate" the leather where it's starting to "dog ear" near where the trigger guard of a P7 pistol would hit it upon insertion into the holster.

But since I'm not a leatherworker, and don't really have use for a lot of leatherworking chemicals/finishes, I would like to minimize the number of materials I need to buy.

Can anyone advise me? From reading online, I had sort of mapped out this plan of attack:

1. Clean the holster well with saddle soap and let it dry well.

2. Use Fiebing's black leather "stain" on the areas where the black finish has worn off, and let that dry well. (In reading online, I get the impression that "stain" would be better than "dye" for filling, leveling and leaving a smooth surface for subsequent coating with acrylic finish...is that about right?)

3. Finish with Fiebing's (black) Acrylic Resolene Protective Acrylic Finish for Leather, maybe 2 coats, and let that dry well.

4. Cover everything with a coat of carnauba wax to help rain/sweat roll off.

Does that sound reasonable? Are there materials that would be better to use for this job? I'd really appreciate any and all advice anyone could offer.

Best regards, and thank you in advance for any help (or at least for reading my long post!)

W.

P.S. I wasn't sure whether to post this here in the conversation sub-forum or the "finishes/chemicals" subforum, so if I've put it in the wrong place, I apologize.

pretty good imo, I would use dye as that's probably what was originally used, I don't know if either would really fill or replace the original surface if its been worn off. is the top layer of leather gone? you should also apply a conditioner such a neets foot oil or a good waterproofing product before your final sealing, it will replace any lost oils in the leather. 

[Wellington]

Thanks for your reply, Chuck123Wapiti, maybe I will try dye and stain. The top layer on the back part (the panel with the slots for a belt to go through) is cracked and seems almost like a plastic, seems to want to come off in big flakes like paint chips...or maybe it's chrome-tanned and the surface layer is cooked/melted? Does that happen with chrome tanning (like "patent leather" shoes where they almost look like they're made of plastic?) 

I would like to do something to that back part of the holster, where the belt slots are, to make it last longer. Is there anything I could treat the leather with, that would "consolidate" it more to give it more wear/fatigue resistance? Or will neatsfoot oil be sufficient?

Thanks again,

W

[alpha2]

Neatsfoot oil has totally different applications than Resolene. Be aware, Resolene is a waterproofing agent, and if used prior to other treatments, will seal the leather and will not allow other agents to penetrate to do their thing. I'd replace the back piece with the belt slots, (and what appears to be a belt tunnel also, not sure why you would need both!), as you will not be able to get that piece to look like the original again in any other way, short of somehow cutting the black layer off, smoothing what is left, and re-dying it or adding another thin layer of new leather, in which case it will be thicker, probably. And the rivets, you may have trouble finding something exactly like them. You can use "double cap rivets" well squeezed to simulate them. Most of us have tons of them sitting around, so don't go buying a gross of them if you only need 4 or 5. Send me a message if you decide to go that route, I will NEVER use what I have on hand. One good thing, the areas at the mouth of the holster, where the finish is worn down to the original leather and rough, can be re-burnished! Win! Google "leather burnishing" and check out youtube videos on the same. You mentioned "finishes/chemicals", so here's a hint, you don't need to buy anything like a tub of the popular Japanese "Tokonole" to burnish leather. Water, spit, (actually quite good), and other concoctions are sufficient. You don't need a burnisher, either. You have plenty around the house/shop. Ballpoint pen, back of a spoon, a wooden stick, which is what a "burnisher" is. In fact, if you run into a place where you "need" something special, jump back on here and ask "what is a substitute for xxxxx?" Prepare to be amazed. 

Neatsfoot oil is a conditioner, and softens leather, too. If the leather has become quite stiff, it may help, but remember, it will soften the areas where the leather was formed, (boned) to the shape in the first place. 

I'd wait just a bit and let others with more "restoration" experience chime in. Could save you a LOT of headaches further down this road! Sorry if this rambled on, but I've been "down this road", and a lot of this info would have been nice way back when.

Jeff

[chuck123wapati]

 

15 hours ago, Wellington said:

Thanks for your reply, Chuck123Wapiti, maybe I will try dye and stain. The top layer on the back part (the panel with the slots for a belt to go through) is cracked and seems almost like a plastic, seems to want to come off in big flakes like paint chips...or maybe it's chrome-tanned and the surface layer is cooked/melted? Does that happen with chrome tanning (like "patent leather" shoes where they almost look like they're made of plastic?) 

I would like to do something to that back part of the holster, where the belt slots are, to make it last longer. Is there anything I could treat the leather with, that would "consolidate" it more to give it more wear/fatigue resistance? Or will neatsfoot oil be sufficient?

Thanks again,

W

I don't usually open pictures but i did yours , the front is no problem, the leather on back needs replaced it has dried out and dry rotted, you wont be able to save it the top layer is gone. Its the important part that holds your gun to your belt so replace it completely.  With that being said you have to take that piece off, remove the rivets, and if it has been properly glued you might ruin the  second  piece as well while getting them apart. Then after the repair you will need to add some nfo or water proofing because it is so dry. it wont ruin the form it will save the leather from further dry rot. now on the front and re sealing it,  you can do it like you wanted to and you may even think about a good black shoe polish instead of carnuba that's what the military and most cops used on those to keep them looking good.

Repairing it is doable imo but...… by the time you buy all the leather, rivets, glue, dye, stains, conditioners, and sealers. what will you have? 

Here's the deal on "restoration", if you want to restore it to functionality you will have more money and time in it than its really worth and you will ruin any possible collectability. That was gone with the dry rot. Simply put you can buy a new holster cheaper or even find a good original hk holster cheaper.   if you want to keep it as a collectable which it isn't really then leave it alone and don't use it, put it in a frame and enjoy it and buy a good safe holster for your awesome p7 you lucky dog. 

 

[Wellington]

Thank you Alpha2 and Chuck, again, for your replies.

The back piece with the belt slots seems fairly sturdy for the time being, but I agree, I might want to replace it.

Would this piece of veg tanned leather (3.2-3.6 mm) work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153633181450?var=453663099840

And would these kind of copper rivets and burrs work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/271200449183

As I said, I'm not a leatherworker, but I inherited some leatherworking tools from my Dad, and I do woodworking and metalworking, so I'm fairly handy...

I know I may be "gilding the lily" here, and I know I'm ruining any "collector value" for my P7 holster, but the gun is a "shooter" and the holster is a "user" ...and P7 holsters aren't easy to come by anymore (I have an IWB model on order from Milt Sparks, but that's gonna take 7 months for them to even begin making it...and I want an OWB holster now...)

Thanks again for all your help.

[battlemunky]

I would avoid eBay leather. You could get lucky but I wouldn't risk the waste of time and energy if the leather is crap. I usually don't recommend Tandy but they may have something to fit your need for a bit more certainty than eBay.

Any 6 to 10 oz veg/oil tan should work for that back piece. I wouldn't go much lower than 6 and anything higher than 10 is just going to add bulk and weight. 

Also, aesthetically, you get nothing from dye other than color so if you'd be inclined to use plain veg tan you could let it develop it's own patina/character with time.

Best of luck on the resto. 

[chuck123wapati]

33 minutes ago, Wellington said:

Thank you Alpha2 and Chuck, again, for your replies.

The back piece with the belt slots seems fairly sturdy for the time being, but I agree, I might want to replace it.

Would this piece of veg tanned leather (3.2-3.6 mm) work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153633181450?var=453663099840

And would these kind of copper rivets and burrs work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/271200449183

As I said, I'm not a leatherworker, but I inherited some leatherworking tools from my Dad, and I do woodworking and metalworking, so I'm fairly handy...

I know I may be "gilding the lily" here, and I know I'm ruining any "collector value" for my P7 holster, but the gun is a "shooter" and the holster is a "user" ...and P7 holsters aren't easy to come by anymore (I have an IWB model on order from Milt Sparks, but that's gonna take 7 months for them to even begin making it...and I want an OWB holster now...)

Thanks again for all your help.

then good luck i am sure you can repair it into serviceable condition. I would measure the thickness of the old piece and get the same thickness. I would also think there may be a leather craftsman some where close that could spare a piece  and some rivets and barter or buy from them or a local Tandy store will have adequate leather, then you would get the right stuff. 

Seven months wait time??? wowzers.

[Wellington]

Thanks guys, looks like the closest Tandy is about 200 miles, I'll see what else is in the area. Appreciate your help.