Icho Report post Posted December 16, 2022 Hello all. I'm still waiting on some parts so I am trying to go thru my machine and check everything I possibly can so that I can just finish assembling it when the parts do get here. Since the bobbin gear set was stripped, I figured I'd check the safety clutch to make sure it works as it should. I tried to disengage it but I am not sure if there is a proper way to test it. I did see a video by @Uwe but it was for I believe an Adler 167 which has a different set up. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted December 21, 2022 The Durkopp Adler 269 Service Manual describes how to reset and adjust the safety clutch in section 2.6 I recommend reading that whole manual. I don’t have the machine in front of me, so I’m just going by the manual. To test the function of the clutch, you can hold the shaft (G) with a pair of pliers (with grippy leather between the claws to not scratch the shaft). This simulates the hook being bound up for some reason. Now turn the head wheel. The clutch should pop and disengage the drive shaft from the drive belt. If you keep holding the shaft and keep turning turning the wheel, the safety clutch should re-engage after a full turn. Depending on the torque setting, it may take a bit of force to make the clutch pop. The 2 screws (w) under the drive belt allow adjustment of the amount of torque required to pop the safety clutch. Full details in the manual linked above. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icho Report post Posted December 21, 2022 32 minutes ago, Uwe said: The Durkopp Adler 269 Service Manual describes how to reset and adjust the safety clutch in section 2.6 I recommend reading that whole manual. I don’t have the machine in front of me, so I’m just going by the manual. To test the function of the clutch, you can hold the shaft (G) with a pair of pliers (with grippy leather between the claws to not scratch the shaft). This simulates the hook being bound up for some reason. Now turn the head wheel. The clutch should pop and disengage the drive shaft from the drive belt. If you keep holding the shaft and keep turning turning the wheel, the safety clutch should re-engage after a full turn. Depending on the torque setting, it may take a bit of force to make the clutch pop. The 2 screws (w) under the drive belt allow adjustment of the amount of torque required to pop the safety clutch. Full details in the manual linked above. I actually tried to do that but I couldn't disengage it. I felt like I put more pressure on it than I should have to. I will try again with more pressure. I did see in the manual about engaging the clutch but couldn't find anything about adjusting it. I was hoping to not have to take the belt off but it looks like I may have to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icho Report post Posted December 21, 2022 Well I did what I was trying to avoid. I took the belt off. The little balls that should be visible were not. The shell gear was not over the spring loaded ball and I still couldn't get it to turn so I started disassembling that gear and bushing assembly. It took a few hits with a dead blow hammer and it came apart. I almost lost a ball and spring because it shot right thru the paper towel I had covering it. I got lucky because I heard it land in a tote next to me. The bushing that the shell gear fits on has some scoring on it so I may have to polish it up a bit. Good thing I have a spare that I can use as a worst case but I think I can clean it up. Looks like I will have to reset the timing on the whole machine. Oh well. It's actually kind of fun but I'd still rather be sewing some leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted December 23, 2022 Uwe, You in Chicago now? glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
