Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted February 6, 2023 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 6, 2023 I did loosen the screw but I didn’t push that part over. One of those I D 10t errors. Thanks @CowboyBob Quote
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted February 9, 2023 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 9, 2023 I was watching videos of the Cowboy and Cobra machines. I had a Class 4 at one time. It sewed absolutely awesome, and I loved it. I noticed watching Pat Hennigan's videos you never saw any slack in the thread as the needle was about to make contact, I would have a little slack sometimes. Sometimes see a big loop while just sewing. I noticed in a couple of videos I saw people running these machines skipping that last thread guide. I noticed on the Cobra's the thread guide is mounted in a completely different place. I tried to mount mine there, but it wouldn't fit so I mounted it to the inside of the faceplate instead of the outside and it made a noticeable difference in the way it sewed. Just curious if anybody has tried this. Quote
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted February 11, 2023 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 11, 2023 Just curious if anybody else thinks moving that thread guide would make any difference. Quote
kgg Posted February 11, 2023 Report Posted February 11, 2023 37 minutes ago, Tim Schroeder said: Just curious if anybody else thinks moving that thread guide would make any difference. The possible down side of moving the thread guide to the inside of the face-plate is the thread may rub on the cutout in the front of the face-plate. By moving it to the inside you did change the angle of the thread to the needle guide, making it less restrictive. A photo of the front of the face-plate would be nice to see. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted February 11, 2023 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 11, 2023 I think I'm thru adjusting anyway. Max stitch length forward backwards and forward again,10 stitches No skip stitches No knots. 138 in 5 to 7 oz of chrome tan. With the guide there the thread doesn't rub on anything, even in max stitch length position. Quote
kgg Posted February 11, 2023 Report Posted February 11, 2023 19 minutes ago, Tim Schroeder said: I think I'm thru adjusting anyway. Nice clean thread path so it should be good and your results are good. kgg Quote Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver
Contributing Member Tim Schroeder Posted February 22, 2023 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 22, 2023 On 2/2/2023 at 7:29 AM, CowboyBob said: On 2/2/2023 at 7:28 AM, Tim Schroeder said: DO NOT TOUCH THIS!!! This is where@Uwe is adjusting the timing of the hook in his video posted on this forum right now. When CowboyBob posted this, it was way to late, I had already done it just like Uwe told me to in the video. It's the same video I was using to set up my machine. The pointer and 2 dots on the handwheel make it much easier and faster to make the adjustments. It's where the Juki manual tells you to adjust the timing. Is that the engineer's manual everybody talks about. Cobra manual and the manual that came with my machine says do it in the front. Yet nobody who actually knows will come on here and clear this up. aaronthearcher"s machine got out of whack and needed adjusting. Anybody know what the Cowboy manual says. Probably says do it in the front since Bob posted this. Quote
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