Help finding a part!! Singer 111w155

[chefben4]

11 minutes ago, DonInReno said:

Anything that fits in the hole will work - nail, coat hanger, prong off corn cob holder, thick paper clip, small drill bit, wire cut out of a fence, etc.

edit: straight shank of a big fish hook, straight portion of a mouse trap spring

If this is true, that would make my day. However, what causes the pin to go in and out with the feed dog raising (thus pushing against tension assembly and releasing disc tension)

[DonInReno]

The pin (#20) goes in the hole - in there is a doohickey that’s moved in or out by the lift of the presser foot.   I have two 11w155s and both of these pins are slightly different lengths - it doesn’t matter much as long as it fits the hole and moves the transfer lever.

Pin #11 is normally the one that gets altered for proper tension release, but transfer lever #17 can be slightly bent, although changing pin length is pretty easy.

The trick is to get the length of the pin so it opens the tension disks only when presser lift lever is fully open, but keeps thread tension when he presser foot is partially lifted to turn the leather. 
 

If the doohickey inside the head does not move with the presser foot lifter, there is often a broken tab on the doohickey and it has to be replaced.  Unfortunately it’s pretty involved to get it replaced, but it’s not an uncommon failure.

 

Edited February 12, 2023 by DonInReno

[DonInReno]

Give me a few minutes and I’ll pull and measure that pin.

 

edit:   This pin has a Simanco part number and is well worn from being a retired factory machine, so originally it was probably 2-1/4” long. I’m not sure how well it showed up in the picture, but in addition to the slight taper on the ends the very end is rounded over a bit and not flat.

The diameter is essentially 11/64”, but at least on my machine a 3/16” drill bit fits the hole.  Home Depot often stocks these longer Irwin drill bits - the shank of an ordinary drill bit is pretty short.

The transfer punch is 4.25mm and would also work well.

I ran a file across the original and it’s harder than a nail, but not by much.   The shank of a box store drill bit or the shank of a Harbor Freight transfer punch are very close - I’d think they are all pretty ordinary medium carbon steel that’s not heat treated.  The tip of the drill bit and transfer punch are hardened, but not the shank.

 

 

Edited February 12, 2023 by DonInReno

[DonInReno]

This came up on Amazon for $3 and free shipping. 

[DonInReno]

This is even cheaper, but it’s only available in 3/16”.

[chefben4]

1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

Give me a few minutes and I’ll pull and measure that pin.

 

edit:   This pin has a Simanco part number and is well worn from being a retired factory machine, so originally it was probably 2-1/4” long. I’m not sure how well it showed up in the picture, but in addition to the slight taper on the ends the very end is rounded over a bit and not flat.

The diameter is essentially 11/64”, but at least on my machine a 3/16” drill bit fits the hole.  Home Depot often stocks these longer Irwin drill bits - the shank of an ordinary drill bit is pretty short.

The transfer punch is 4.25mm and would also work well.

I ran a file across the original and it’s harder than a nail, but not by much.   The shank of a box store drill bit or the shank of a Harbor Freight transfer punch are very close - I’d think they are all pretty ordinary medium carbon steel that’s not heat treated.  The tip of the drill bit and transfer punch are hardened, but not the shank.

 

 

Don, Can’t thank you enough. If it doesn’t work I’ll assume it’s the other part as well!! Will update once I fix (hopefully).

 

[DonInReno]

Glad to help!

I just thought of another 3/16” piece that’s easy to get locally.   These timberlock screws are sold everywhere and are a medium carbon steel.  I measured one and it’s just barely over 3/16” - you might have to spin it with a drill and sand paper to reduce it a tiny bit. 

[chefben4]

1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

Glad to help!

I just thought of another 3/16” piece that’s easy to get locally.   These timberlock screws are sold everywhere and are a medium carbon steel.  I measured one and it’s just barely over 3/16” - you might have to spin it with a drill and sand paper to reduce it a tiny bit. 

I had a 11/64 drill bit and messed with it a bit. It doesn’t do anything at all so my guess is the other part needs replacing as well. I’ve ordered one, so I’ll see how it goes when I get it

 

[chefben4]

On 2/12/2023 at 12:52 PM, DonInReno said:

The pin (#20) goes in the hole - in there is a doohickey that’s moved in or out by the lift of the presser foot.   I have two 11w155s and both of these pins are slightly different lengths - it doesn’t matter much as long as it fits the hole and moves the transfer lever.

Pin #11 is normally the one that gets altered for proper tension release, but transfer lever #17 can be slightly bent, although changing pin length is pretty easy.

The trick is to get the length of the pin so it opens the tension disks only when presser lift lever is fully open, but keeps thread tension when he presser foot is partially lifted to turn the leather. 
 

If the doohickey inside the head does not move with the presser foot lifter, there is often a broken tab on the doohickey and it has to be replaced.  Unfortunately it’s pretty involved to get it replaced, but it’s not an uncommon failure.

 

Don after all your help, I Was hoping to have a positive update for you, but I’m struggling. Got my parts in and watched the video a bunch of times. But not I cannot get the outside pressure foot to lift much and all and cannot figure out what the hell im doing wrong! Prior to my disassembly it moved up and down just fine. More to come if I figure it out. Any thoughts? Would love to hear them!

[DonInReno]

Well, here’s one of my 111w155 as the presser foot lift lever is operated.  Is something hitting and preventing the full range of motion, or it’s just not lifting as high as it did?