Problems with Tippmann Boss

[Mocivnik]

So, my machine didnt sew for months now so I set it aside. Now, when I got projects (thanks God, not in a rush!) for the machine, I decided to either make it work or sell it. Depends on time/cost.

So, the problems were/are:

-skipping stitches,

-when the needle was exiting leather (way out), the needle jumped up front,

-clenching and clogging thread.

 

Now, I opened the machine up, cleaned and oiled up a bit some parts, put it back together, and it's working better, but I still have some problems with skipping stitches. I think I set the timing correct (please se first two pictures), I did it by Tippmann Tutorial on how to set timing correct.

 

I've read about the possible issues, why the machine is skipping stitches, but I'd say so:

-I think timing is OK. If not, please let me know what's wrong, I believe it's seen on 1st and 2nd picture.

-the needle is 180,

-the thread is /10 (European size, it's the thickest I can get, but i think US size would be simmilar to 246). It's polyester. The needle slides freely on the thread, if I hold it with both hands and needle hangs through the hole on it.

-Needle is oriented as such, that the vertical U-groove is pointing AWAY from the machine,

-Needle is new,

-Tension on presser foot: no idea how strong it should be, but I try to keep it slightly lighter, so it doesn't damage leather much (although, still skipps stitches even if I "add or take" the pressure)

 

Now, this is the "new" outcome.

 

Also, the bobbin is having a bit too much space. Am I missing a part in here or is that normal?

Link to IMGUR for the video on how much space there is around the bobbin.

 

If anyone has idea of what I'm doing wrong, I'd be very grateful.

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by Mocivnik

[Dwight]

I'm not an expert on the Boss . . . but I found a trick that I always use when I'm changing needles . . .  and doing it . . . mine doesn't skip stitches.

First . . . make sure that the needle will slide easily back and forth on a piece of your thread about 18 to 24 inches long.  Hold the string . . .  one end in each hand . . . and tilt the string by moving one hand up or down . . . that needle should not hesitate . . . but slip down the slanted string like the state highway patrol was after it.

THEN . . . put your needle up in the slot . . . again making sure the long slot is to your left . . . away from the main part of the machine.

LAST . . . take a regular sewing needle . . . one you would sew a button back on your shirt with . . . put the tip of it in the thread hole of the Boss needle . . .  and make sure it points exactly 180 degrees away from the main machine body.

My vision has not always let me see how I have my needle by itself . . . so I devised this little trick . . . works EVERY time . . . if I do it right.

If that does not work . . . send an email to Tippmann . . . and tell them to give it to Ben . . . I've taken my machine up to him . . . he has sat it on his desk . . . and it works like a super champ every time when he gets done with it.

May God bless,

Dwight

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Mocivnik said:

the needle is 180,

-the thread is /10 (European size, it's the thickest I can get, but i think US size would be simmilar to 246). It's polyester. The needle slides freely on the thread, if I hold it with both hands and needle hangs through the hole on it.

-Needle is oriented as such, that the vertical U-groove is pointing AWAY from the machine,

-Needle is new,

My take would be:

i) The thread size 10 is the same as V277 and for that you need 200 (#25) needle.

ii) The needle being a 180 (#24) is good for V207 (15) thread but in thick tough sticky stuff it would be better to use V138 (#20) thread.

iii) The thread sliding through the eye of the needle is only one part of the equation. The needle also has to make a hole large enough to allow the thread not to be caught by the material to allow it to form the loop properly so it is caught by the hook.

iv) The needle seems slightly twisted and the @Dwight detail would definitely help with needle alignment. If the needle is twisted one way or the other the top thread being caught by the hook maybe a problem.

v) It maybe the photo but are you using a proper leather point needle it appears the tip is round which would be used in fabric.

vi) A good thread to needle size chart can be found at  https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

vii) If the material is tough or thick or sticky you are probably going to have to move up a needle size from what's is being recommended.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

15 hours ago, Mocivnik said:

Tension on presser foot: no idea how strong it should be, but I try to keep it slightly lighter, so it doesn't damage leather much (although, still skipps stitches even if I "add or take" the pressure)

Add more foot pressure to hold down the leather to stop skipping stitches. You can rub out the foot tracks later. But, I would move up to a #25/200 needle first. I recommend a Schmetz S point needle.

I watched your video and suggest that you tighten the two screws on the shuttle race all the way down, then back them off about 1/2 turn each. This will let the shuttle move outwards as the thick thread goes around the bobbin case. You don't want too much or too little clearance.

[Mocivnik]

23 hours ago, Dwight said:

I'm not an expert on the Boss . . . but I found a trick that I always use when I'm changing needles . . .  and doing it . . . mine doesn't skip stitches.

First . . . make sure that the needle will slide easily back and forth on a piece of your thread about 18 to 24 inches long.  Hold the string . . .  one end in each hand . . . and tilt the string by moving one hand up or down . . . that needle should not hesitate . . . but slip down the slanted string like the state highway patrol was after it.

THEN . . . put your needle up in the slot . . . again making sure the long slot is to your left . . . away from the main part of the machine.

LAST . . . take a regular sewing needle . . . one you would sew a button back on your shirt with . . . put the tip of it in the thread hole of the Boss needle . . .  and make sure it points exactly 180 degrees away from the main machine body.

My vision has not always let me see how I have my needle by itself . . . so I devised this little trick . . . works EVERY time . . . if I do it right.

If that does not work . . . send an email to Tippmann . . . and tell them to give it to Ben . . . I've taken my machine up to him . . . he has sat it on his desk . . . and it works like a super champ every time when he gets done with it.

May God bless,

Dwight

Hello Dwight,

 

I changed needles from 180 to 200 and back, but didn't help at all tho. Now: Needle flew easily on even a shorter piece of string, I did that trick already.

The needle was looking away from the machine, ALTHOUGH it was a bit tilted, maybe for like 15 degrees, so I fixed that, THANK YOU.

I would actually like to give my boss to the company back for a week just to make sure it will work for next decade..But still might send an email for details and buying center Presser Foot (i really hate the STAMP that tippmann does on leather and leaves deep markings).

  

22 hours ago, kgg said:

My take would be:

i) The thread size 10 is the same as V277 and for that you need 200 (#25) needle.

ii) The needle being a 180 (#24) is good for V207 (15) thread but in thick tough sticky stuff it would be better to use V138 (#20) thread.

iii) The thread sliding through the eye of the needle is only one part of the equation. The needle also has to make a hole large enough to allow the thread not to be caught by the material to allow it to form the loop properly so it is caught by the hook.

iv) The needle seems slightly twisted and the @Dwight detail would definitely help with needle alignment. If the needle is twisted one way or the other the top thread being caught by the hook maybe a problem.

v) It maybe the photo but are you using a proper leather point needle it appears the tip is round which would be used in fabric.

vi) A good thread to needle size chart can be found at  https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

vii) If the material is tough or thick or sticky you are probably going to have to move up a needle size from what's is being recommended.

kgg

i) So, I was always wondering about the thread, what it is, but I never got much on the data, since I got it shipped from Italy. Here's the sticker, that's on the bottom of the thread:

ii) I believe that V138 (#20) thread isn't availible for me. I would somehow prefer using different threads aswell, but local leathershop doesn't offer much of a choice tbh. It's pretty bad down here about leathercrafting in general.

iii) I understand, and I believe, this wasnt much of a problem, I believe there's enough space in the groove for the thread.

iv) Needle aligned.

v) Yes, the needles are pointy ones (7x3), not the dull ones. They are properly sharp and can very easily hurt you.

vii) I've used 180 and 200 needle, same effect tho. Im using either 2.4mm (6oz) or 3.6mm (9oz) veg tan leather for the 99% of the time on my machine.

[Mocivnik]

9 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Add more foot pressure to hold down the leather to stop skipping stitches. You can rub out the foot tracks later. But, I would move up to a #25/200 needle first. I recommend a Schmetz S point needle.

I watched your video and suggest that you tighten the two screws on the shuttle race all the way down, then back them off about 1/2 turn each. This will let the shuttle move outwards as the thick thread goes around the bobbin case. You don't want too much or too little clearance.

YES!! THIS SOLVED 99% OF THE PROBLEM.

 

I wasn't aware, that the foot pressure needs to be higher so the machine doesnt skip the stitch. Here's the product now, i've only had 1-2 skips during the red area. (those big blobs are burnt thread, so the stitch stay together)

I've also spent quite some time for setting pressure on top 2 screws (top of the machine, nr.1 and nr.2) and both screws under the bobbin (left for pressure, right screw for fixing it). IDK how they are set now, but the machine is working and I'm nearly 100% satisfied.

ALSO, the needle I'm currently using is 180, and there is 0% of difference between 180 and 200. It just skips 1-2 stitches per 50 stitches and I'm quite OK with this.

I'm a bit bothered about seeing a knot in the hole (that brown ball), but I hope somehow will be solved this one day aswell.

 

 

Thanks everyone for help, it means a lot to me. And if anyone knows how to solve 1-2 missed stitches per 50 stitches, I'm more that thrilled to find out

Edited April 4, 2023 by Mocivnik

[kgg]

2 hours ago, Mocivnik said:

i) So, I was always wondering about the thread, what it is, but I never got much on the data, since I got it shipped from Italy. Here's the sticker, that's on the bottom of the thread:

The thread according to the label and their website ( https://www.ctpoint.it/en/products/twisted-yarns/penny/ ) is a polyester 3 ply thread. I have a feeling it is not a bonded polyester just a twisted polyester.

Glad you figured out the problem.

kgg

[Mocivnik]

14 minutes ago, kgg said:

The thread according to the label and their website ( https://www.ctpoint.it/en/products/twisted-yarns/penny/ ) is a polyester 3 ply thread. I have a feeling it is not a bonded polyester just a twisted polyester.

Glad you figured out the problem.

kgg

I couldnt find their website, thanks for it. But it's penny plus, it's this one:

https://www.ctpoint.it/en/products/twisted-yarns/penny-plus/