Purse and clutch questions

[DaveP]

A friend of mine wants me to make a purse and clutch. I haven't saddle stitched anything bigger than trucker/ biker style wallets and my knife sheaths. 

Purse-

How do you stich something that long? Several pieces of thread? How do you add next piece of thread/ One backstitch over last end point?

What leather thickness is best? She wants a stiffer bottom with pliable upper. Pockets on the inside and out with zippers! No cloth will be used.

Would you line it with thin leather? If so...How thin?

This will be made all from veg tan leather along with the clutch. Purse will be black.

Clutch-

Where do you get strong small zippers for that would go 3 sides of a clutch?

What thickness leather for outside cover and inside pockets. One will have a zipper.

Clutch needs to be blue. All I have currently is navy blue Feibing's. It's VERY dark almost looks black. Need something else. Recommendations?

Are there any good free patterns for a larger clutch?

 Thanks again,

David

 

[Tugadude]

Wow, with all due respect that's a lot of questions.  Are you sure this is a project you want to tackle at this point in your learning?  No offense intended but this will be relatively complicated, well above the skills needed to complete a truckers style wallet.

Some of your questions will depend on the style of bag you choose and its construction.   For example, if you do a "turned-out" bag you needn't worry so much about lengths of thread and how to start/stop saddle stitching runs.  They won't show.  

Also, if I were you I'd be searching for some finished leather for the shell.  There's enough work to be done without worrying about dyeing the leather.  Springfield Leather and others have a variety of blues that might work for you.  

Zippers can be found at any fabric store, Hobby Lobby, Leather shops like Tandy and Springfield Leather, etc.  I believe Buckle Guy has some very nice quality zippers too.  

Edited April 3, 2023 by Tugadude

[tsunkasapa]

Any time I stitch, I never use more thread than I can span, arms spread out. I generally overstitch 3-4 stitches. Trying to use more thread than that is a huge PITA, and slows things down.

[tsunkasapa]

And I agree, just buy blue leather.

 "Liege Main" Chevre Chagrin - Great for Bookbinders (rmleathersupply.com)

[Littlef]

16 minutes ago, tsunkasapa said:

Any time I stitch, I never use more thread than I can span, arms spread out. I generally overstitch 3-4 stitches. Trying to use more thread than that is a huge PITA, and slows things down.

I'm glad someone asked this question.  I've made a couple western holsters, and sewed the perimeter in one shot, which was like 7 feet of thread --ish.  That is a beat down fighting tangles in that much thread.   - Going forward, I'll do it in multiple sections and overstitch the sections by 3 or 4 stitches.  Thank you for that nugget of experience!

[DaveP]

Thanks for the replies. I know it's a big leap from sheaths and wallets. Have to start somewhere. If it turns out crappy then I'd make another until satisfied. 

[Tugadude]

34 minutes ago, DaveP said:

Thanks for the replies. I know it's a big leap from sheaths and wallets. Have to start somewhere. If it turns out crappy then I'd make another until satisfied. 

Hopefully some here have some patterns they've used and can share them with you.  Might help to give more of an idea on exactly what you are wanting to make.  I'd begin with the clutch, since it is probably going to be easier for you.  Again, I recommend you do it in a turned-out style.  You can incorporate a zipper on the top of the bag and one on the side.  That gives you two zipper installations to get some practice in.  Another thing you might try is to look for tutorials on YouTube.  Can't remember his name (Calvin?) but he did some amazing purses, both leather and cloth, but the construction is similar in either case.

 

Here's a video for a basic bag that is very similar to what you'd do to construct a clutch purse.  Then just add a side pocket and you're good to go.

 

[DaveP]

In the few wallets I've made they have had a 5 inch zipper. I'd like to make a 8 inch long by4 or 41/2 inch tall clutch with the zipper on three sides with a little overhang on bottom for ease of opening. It needs one zippered pocket inside. Have a few long slots for cash and cards. Outside shell from 4-5 ounce and inside 3-4 ounce veg tan. What do you think about the dimensions and leather thickness? 

Anyone made something similar with pictures?

Thanks again for your help!