Pfaff 145 troubleshooting

[Jianis]

Hello Everyone

 

I have got a Pfaff 145 H2 for a few days to try out.

It has some problems I should like to see if I can fix by myself.

The stitch is changing all the time adjusting the bobbin or upper thread tension does not help.

Turning by hand gives a little better stitching.

Using reverse after a couple of turns the machine blocks.

The hook timing seems to be ok.

Using the motor it gets worse: The stitch length adjusting lever starts vibrating and the machine blocks.

The lever itself behaves strangely sometimes it returns normal from the reversing position and its spring seems to be strong enough other times it sticks.

Do you have any suggestions other than ditching it for me? or is there a workshop manual or something similar online for troubleshooting and adjusting?

 

Thank you

Jianis

[Constabulary]

Did you read the manual? Maybe not correctly threaded.

Please post some pictures of your threaded machine and one view from the open slide plate that covers the hook.

[kgg]

5 hours ago, Jianis said:

is there a workshop manual

Here are two manuals which may be of some help.

kgg

Pfaff_141,_143,_145,_151,_153;_142,_144,_146_Instruction_Manual.pdf pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF

[Jianis]

16 hours ago, Constabulary said:

Did you read the manual? Maybe not correctly threaded.

Please post some pictures of your threaded machine and one view from the open slide plate that covers the hook.

I threaded according to a manual I found on line.!

[Uwe]

I have a feeling this is an adjustment issue (most likely in the feed mechanism) or a missing or incorrect part (for example, the spring for the reverse lever is broken or missing) 

Top thread path in your picture looks good.

Try this: Dial in maximum stitch length and turn the hand wheel until the feed dog is in the very front. It should NOT touch the front of the throat plate opening. Flipping the reverse lever up and down shows the full range of motion of the feed dog - it should not touch the throat opening at either end. If it does, that’s a problem.Ideally the movement of the feed dog is centered in the throat plate opening. 

Remove the motor belt and lift the feet with the manual lever. Turn over the hand wheel by hand and feel for resistance. There should be almost no resistance when turning the wheel, and any resistance should be very even during the entire stitch cycle. On the Pfaffs I had, giving the hand wheel a good spin would keep the machine spinning for two or three cycles before it stopped due to friction. If you feel strong resistance or a “tight spot” at any point during the cycle then that indicates a problem somewhere in the mechanism.

Sometimes, when the feed motion mechanism touches something it shouldn’t, the reverse lever start moving to compensate. If your stitch length/reverse lever moves during the stitch cycle, something is wrong. 

One thing I noticed in your photos is that your bobbin case opener finger is not adjusted correctly. The gap between the finger and the bobbin case is much too big. If it’s touching the throat plate it may may cause a bind.

This may not be the cause of your stitch length issues or bind/block, but it’s definitely something you should fix. It’s easy to adjust.Here’s a video that shows how that finger (bobbin case opener)  works and how to adjust it (shown on a Juki 341, but he bobbin case opener function is the same on your Pfaff 145.)

 

Please report back, and please post some additional pictures (type plate on front of machine, and the underside of the machine would be useful.)  Videos a super helpful when trying to solve motion problems. Figure out how to upload a video to YouTube to help with remote trouble shooting.

 

The Pfaff 145/545 are generally VERY nice machines and worth spending time to adjust them correctly. They’re among the smoothest machines I’ve worked on.  

 

Edited June 2, 2023 by Uwe

[Jianis]

19 hours ago, kgg said:

Here are two manuals which may be of some help.

kgg

Pfaff_141,_143,_145,_151,_153;_142,_144,_146_Instruction_Manual.pdf 5.84 MB · 1 download pfaff_145-manual-EN.PDF 726.7 kB · 2 downloads

Thank you Kgg I had both manuals already but the information for the 145 is limited.

[Jianis]

12 minutes ago, Uwe said:

I have a feeling this is an adjustment issue (most likely in the feed mechanism) or a missing or incorrect part (for example, the spring for the reverse lever is broken or missing) 

Top thread path in your picture looks good.

Try this: Dial in maximum stitch length and turn the hand wheel until the feed dog is in the very front. It should NOT touch the front of the throat plate opening. Flipping the reverse lever up and down shows the full range of motion of the feed dog - it should not touch the throat opening at either end. If it does, that’s a problem.Ideally the movement of the feed dog is centered in the throat plate opening. 

Remove the motor belt and lift the feet with the manual lever. Turn over the hand wheel by hand and feel for resistance. There should be almost no resistance when turning the wheel, and any resistance should be very even during the entire stitch cycle. On the Pfaffs I had, giving the hand wheel a good spin would keep the machine spinning for two or three cycles before it stopped due to friction. If you feel strong resistance or a “tight spot” at any point during the cycle then that indicates a problem somewhere in the mechanism.

Sometimes, when the feed motion mechanism touches something it shouldn’t, the reverse lever start moving to compensate. If your stitch length/reverse lever moves during the stitch cycle, something is wrong. 

One thing I noticed in your photos is that your bobbin case opener finger is not adjusted correctly. The gap between the finger and the bobbin case is much too big. If it’s touching the throat plate it may may cause a bind.

This may not be the cause of your stitch length issues or bind/block, but it’s definitely something you should fix. It’s easy to adjust.Here’s a video that shows how that finger (bobbin case opener)  works and how to adjust it (shown on a Juki 341, but he bobbin case opener function is the same on your Pfaff 145.)

 

Please report back, and please post some additional pictures (type plate on front of machine, and the underside of the machine would be useful.)  Videos a super helpful when trying to solve motion problems. Figure out how to upload a video to YouTube to help with remote trouble shooting.

 

The Pfaff 145/545 are generally VERY nice machines and worth spending time to adjust them correctly. They’re among the smoothest machines I’ve worked on.  

 

Thank you Uwe!

I will try to follow your advise and ofcourse report back. !

[shoepatcher]

HOW heavy a thread are you using.   Stick with #138 and below.  Will sew #207 on top but #138 is better top and bottom.

glenn

[Jianis]

On 6/2/2023 at 8:08 AM, Uwe said:

I have a feeling this is an adjustment issue (most likely in the feed mechanism) or a missing or incorrect part (for example, the spring for the reverse lever is broken or missing) 

Top thread path in your picture looks good.

Try this: Dial in maximum stitch length and turn the hand wheel until the feed dog is in the very front. It should NOT touch the front of the throat plate opening. Flipping the reverse lever up and down shows the full range of motion of the feed dog - it should not touch the throat opening at either end. If it does, that’s a problem.Ideally the movement of the feed dog is centered in the throat plate opening. 

Remove the motor belt and lift the feet with the manual lever. Turn over the hand wheel by hand and feel for resistance. There should be almost no resistance when turning the wheel, and any resistance should be very even during the entire stitch cycle. On the Pfaffs I had, giving the hand wheel a good spin would keep the machine spinning for two or three cycles before it stopped due to friction. If you feel strong resistance or a “tight spot” at any point during the cycle then that indicates a problem somewhere in the mechanism.

Sometimes, when the feed motion mechanism touches something it shouldn’t, the reverse lever start moving to compensate. If your stitch length/reverse lever moves during the stitch cycle, something is wrong. 

One thing I noticed in your photos is that your bobbin case opener finger is not adjusted correctly. The gap between the finger and the bobbin case is much too big. If it’s touching the throat plate it may may cause a bind.

This may not be the cause of your stitch length issues or bind/block, but it’s definitely something you should fix. It’s easy to adjust.Here’s a video that shows how that finger (bobbin case opener)  works and how to adjust it (shown on a Juki 341, but he bobbin case opener function is the same on your Pfaff 145.)

 

Please report back, and please post some additional pictures (type plate on front of machine, and the underside of the machine would be useful.)  Videos a super helpful when trying to solve motion problems. Figure out how to upload a video to YouTube to help with remote trouble shooting.

 

The Pfaff 145/545 are generally VERY nice machines and worth spending time to adjust them correctly. They’re among the smoothest machines I’ve worked on.  

 

 

[Jianis]

Made some photos.

The spring of the stitch adjusting/reversing lever itself seems to be fine.

Measured the resistance and it takes a force of 4 Lb to move the lever to the middle position!

It is difficult to make a clear photo of the plate it reads 145-H2-6/1 BLN.

[Jianis]

On 6/2/2023 at 9:06 PM, shoepatcher said:

HOW heavy a thread are you using.   Stick with #138 and below.  Will sew #207 on top but #138 is better top and bottom.

glenn

Thank you Glenn!

I use the thread that came with the machine I believe it is # 92. The upper one on the photo is a thicker one that I only used to show the thread path. I still have to get some different sizes of needles. At the moment it uses 134-35 110/18

[Uwe]

Your machine may be a binding machine - it appears to be missing the linkage that drives the vertical feed dog moment.

Here’s a picture of a standard Pfaff 145 with the clamping block installed that normally connects a rod to the vertical feed drive eccentric on the upper shaft  (red circle)

Your machine instead has a clamp installed that fixes the position of the vertical feed drive shaft (red circle):

 

I annotated a picture by @Constabularyfrom an earlier thread that shows the difference in the feed drive eccentrics on the top shaft between standard and binding versions of the Pfaff 145. 

 

 

This is the original thread:

 

Edited June 4, 2023 by Uwe

[Jianis]

6 hours ago, Uwe said:

Your machine may be a binding machine - it appears to be missing the linkage that drives the vertical feed dog moment.

Here’s a picture of a standard Pfaff 145 with the clamping block installed that normally connects a rod to the vertical feed drive eccentric on the upper shaft  (red circle)

Your machine instead has a clamp installed that fixes the position of the vertical feed drive shaft (red circle):

 

I annotated a picture by @Constabularyfrom an earlier thread that shows the difference in the feed drive eccentrics on the top shaft between standard and binding versions of the Pfaff 145. 

 

 

This is the original thread:

 

That seems to be the case with my machine too !

[Uwe]

This might make things a bit simpler to investigate, since there are fewer moving parts involved in the feed mechanism. 

Here’s what I would do next: Dial in the maximum stitch length and turn the hand wheel until the feed dog is in the very front position.  Keep flipping the reverse lever up and down. Observe and inspect everything that moves anywhere in the machine. Oil every spot that has two surfaces touching and moving against each other. 

That throat plate and feed dog combo is likely for a standard feed machine and may not be correct for your variant. Parts sometimes fit, but don’t really work. The binding feed dog and throat plate set looks very different and may have different clearances.

Please post more pictures of the head, internals and rear of your machine, with cover plates removed. I spend entirely too much time trying to find a suitable picture online just to add an arrow.

Edited June 5, 2023 by Uwe

[Jianis]

On 6/5/2023 at 1:12 AM, Uwe said:

This might make things a bit simpler to investigate, since there are fewer moving parts involved in the feed mechanism. 

Here’s what I would do next: Dial in the maximum stitch length and turn the hand wheel until the feed dog is in the very front position.  Keep flipping the reverse lever up and down. Observe and inspect everything that moves anywhere in the machine. Oil every spot that has two surfaces touching and moving against each other. 

That throat plate and feed dog combo is likely for a standard feed machine and may not be correct for your variant. Parts sometimes fit, but don’t really work. The binding feed dog and throat plate set looks very different and may have different clearances.

Please post more pictures of the head, internals and rear of your machine, with cover plates removed. I spend entirely too much time trying to find a suitable picture online just to add an arrow.

Uwe Thank you for your detailed search for me!
It is hard to say if I have the right parts as I have no dedicated parts book. They are all marked as Pfaff parts.  
The lever that activates the thread tension release pin is missing and its screw is broken but for me, it is not essential at the moment I will attend to it later.

[Trox]

Your feed dog interferes with your  material feed, you got to lower it.

I haven't read the hole topic but I see this is a H2 machine with binding feed. You just have to lower the feed dog so it doesn't prolongs above the needle plate. 1 mm. belove the plate level is good. Then you can't use those thick threads in this machine, I wonder how you where able to thread it true the needle bar's lower thread guide.  A 110 needle is a Tex 40 to 69 thread size. A Nm 120 needle is a Tex 69 thread size. A 145 H2 is one of the smallest sub classes, it doesn't like those thick threads. Just thread it with a new needle (110 or 120) with correct thread size and drop the feed dog, adjust it so it doesn't interfer with the feeding. That's why you get the feed back on the stitch regulator lever. I have a 345 H3 myself with the same feed, I remember that's what happened to me before I realized it had a binding feed, the first time I used it. Just adjust the feed dog, lower it so it doesn't interfer with the feeding. It's there to propel a synchronized binder. 

Tor

[Jianis]

45 minutes ago, Trox said:

Your feed dog interferes with your  material feed, you got to lower it.

I haven't read the hole topic but I see this is a H2 machine with binding feed. You just have to lower the feed dog so it doesn't prolongs above the needle plate. 1 mm. belove the plate level is good. Then you can't use those thick threads in this machine, I wonder how you where able to thread it true the needle bar's lower thread guide.  A 110 needle is a Tex 40 to 69 thread size. A Nm 120 needle is a Tex 69 thread size. A 145 H2 is one of the smallest sub classes, it doesn't like those thick threads. Just thread it with a new needle (110 or 120) with correct thread size and drop the feed dog, adjust it so it doesn't interfer with the feeding. That's why you get the feed back on the stitch regulator lever. I have a 345 H3 myself with the same feed, I remember that's what happened to me before I realized it had a binding feed, the first time I used it. Just adjust the feed dog, lower it so it doesn't interfer with the feeding. It's there to propel a synchronized binder. 

Tor

Thank you  Tor.

I will follow your advice and lower the feed dog  see if it makes a change.

I used thick colored  thread on top only to schouw how I thread the machine  (Costabulary  asked )  . 
I am using Tex 70 polyester thread and new 110/18 needles 

Jianis

[Trox]

47 minutes ago, Jianis said:

Thank you  Tor.

I will follow your advice and lower the feed dog  see if it makes a change.

I used thick colored  thread on top only to schouw how I thread the machine  (Costabulary  asked )  . 
I am using Tex 70 polyester thread and new 110/18 needles 

Jianis

Okay, when the foot presses the material down the feed dog will catch the material even when it doesn't prolong over the plate. But if it's above needle plate level it will for sure interfer. It goes just back and forth, not in a square like a normal bottom feed.  First it feeds the right way and then when the stitch is made, it's feed it back again. For leather work it's the needle feed that's important, alternating pressers are there to climb different levels but the lower feed isn't that important. It just make marks in the leather anyway, but it's serves a purpose as a lower needle guide. It makes sure the needle doesn't bend away from the shuttle, causing skipped stitches. But just lower it a millimeter or two below the needle plate. Let me know how that worked out for you.

Tor

 

[Jianis]

53 minutes ago, Trox said:

Okay, when the foot presses the material down the feed dog will catch the material even when it doesn't prolong over the plate. But if it's above needle plate level it will for sure interfer. It goes just back and forth, not in a square like a normal bottom feed.  First it feeds the right way and then when the stitch is made, it's feed it back again. For leather work it's the needle feed that's important, alternating pressers are there to climb different levels but the lower feed isn't that important. It just make marks in the leather anyway, but it's serves a purpose as a lower needle guide. It makes sure the needle doesn't bend away from the shuttle, causing skipped stitches. But just lower it a millimeter or two below the needle plate. Let me know how that worked out for you.

Tor

 

Tor 

I am new on working on sewing machines so I first have to find information how to lower  the  feed dog.

I see we have the same interest on vintage Volvos!
 

Jianis

 

[Uwe]

To adjust feed dog height, loosen these two screws (red arrows) and rotate the clamp on the shaft. It’ll be a very small adjustment.

 

Thanks for all the other photos, by the way! They will be useful before too long.

[Jianis]

23 minutes ago, Uwe said:

To adjust feed dog height, loosen these two screws (red arrows) and rotate the clamp on the shaft. It’ll be a very small adjustment.

 

Thanks for all the other photos, by the way! They will be useful before too long.

Thank you Uwe!

[Trox]

You do not need any manuals when you got Uwe!

[Trox]

1 hour ago, Jianis said:

Tor 

I am new on working on sewing machines so I first have to find information how to lower  the  feed dog.

I see we have the same interest on vintage Volvos!
 

Jianis

 

Yes Volvo made good cars, I still drives a Volvo. I have vintage one too, but I'm not very active with that hobby for the moment. Sewing machines and cars have much in common, you got to learn how to use and maintain them. Just pressing the pedal will only get you so far. If your interested in what your doing, you will obtain the knowledge you need to manage them.

[Hurbie]

nice topic , at least now i know why my machine doesn't have bottom feed , and it seems it doesn't like thick thread eather . i can get it to run "20" thickness (think that's 135 in other format) but can't get it to run "10" (or 270) , it will shread the upper thread to pieces. (still used a "20"/135 bottom wire).

does anybody know if you can adjust the stitch length , as far as i'm aware it should be 4.5mm max , but mine wil only do 4 mm (and that is with the stitch controller arm screwed all the way down without the plastic block in place (still waiting for that to arrive)

[Trox]

On 11/7/2024 at 5:00 PM, Hurbie said:

nice topic , at least now i know why my machine doesn't have bottom feed , and it seems it doesn't like thick thread eather . i can get it to run "20" thickness (think that's 135 in other format) but can't get it to run "10" (or 270) , it will shread the upper thread to pieces. (still used a "20"/135 bottom wire).

does anybody know if you can adjust the stitch length , as far as i'm aware it should be 4.5mm max , but mine wil only do 4 mm (and that is with the stitch controller arm screwed all the way down without the plastic block in place (still waiting for that to arrive)

Yes these machines aren't made for anything larger than max 20 thread, maybe 15 on top and 20 in the bobbin. I guess you even have trouble getting anything thicker than 20 in to the needle bar thread guide. Using anything thicker is just the same as asking for trouble. I don't think your machine even have a hook safety clutch, birds nests could get real serious.