Motorcycle Jacket

[benzy50]

Hi everyone. 

I'm looking for some knowledge on motorcycle saftey seems. I'm currently wanting to make myself a leather jacket and want to over engineer the safety. So I'm looking to do triple safety reinforced seems. I also will line with kevlar. 

Does anyone have a explanation on how to seem properly. I have searched far and wide for information but coming up short. Only thing I can think of now is to dismember a jacket and copy. 

I have a machine I belive capable and if not I'm happy to hand sew if needed. 

Any help would be much appreciated. 

 

Thanks 

[Heartless]

most likely not finding anything because you are using the wrong spelling.. the word is seam. spelling does matter.

the biggest "safety" thing you need to consider is making the seams strong enough to withstand sliding on pavement without falling apart
the type of thread you use, and way the jacket is constructed will have a lot of bearing on that.

i dont know the proper name for the type of seam i am thinking of, but it is very strong, and would serve you well in this project.. it is actually easier to draw it out than try to explain it, so I will post a drawing shortly..

~~~~~~~~~

Ok, I am going to call this a rolled seam. you are looking at this from the end of the seam..
the blue & red are your leather pieces/panels... black is stitch line
1. lay one piece over the other and stitch together - the way I have drawn this, left is on top..
2. after stitching the two pieces together, "roll" the seam over so the initial stitch line is hidden and do two more stitch lines - kind of top stitching, but making sure you get both panels in each line of stitching - in essence, you will be going through 4 layers of leather for both of these seams

this kind of seam is very common on blue jeans where two panels are joined together... except they dont usually do that first line of stitching, they just roll and do the double top stitching.

Edited June 7, 2023 by Heartless

[kgg]

38 minutes ago, Heartless said:

i dont know the proper name for the type of seam i am thinking of

A true flat felled seam not the mock flat felled seam sometimes referred to as a military seam. An example can be see in this video as the first seam done with jeans materials (www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1vJzVW2lLk)

kgg

[Heartless]

@kgg  thanks for the name..
I grew up sewing with my grandmother who did custom clothing for others, but names of the different types of seams were never really a thing, LOL

[benzy50]

Thank you very much. The seam looks perfect for the job, I better get practicing and see how it goes. 

[Bert03241]

I think they make kevlar thread also

[kgg]

8 hours ago, benzy50 said:

I have a machine I belive capable and if not I'm happy to hand sew if needed. 

What machine are you planning on using?

kgg

[billybopp]

3 hours ago, Bert03241 said:

I think they make kevlar thread also

They do.  But I think I remember reading on here that it's hell on sewing machines - particularly tensioning parts.  I doubt that one or two jackets would do any noticeable damage, tho.

- Bill

[Heartless]

8 hours ago, benzy50 said:

Thank you very much. The seam looks perfect for the job, I better get practicing and see how it goes. 

i wish you the best of luck with your project. Please do keep us posted on it =)

(i dont mean to be the grammar police, but correct spelling does make a difference when you are trying to find information)

[benzy50]

16 hours ago, kgg said:

What machine are you planning on using?

kgg

I will be using the other half's Jaguar 405 sewing machine with a walking for attachment. I did I test with 2 layers of 1.3 mm leather and worked fine will have to do another with 4 layers and see.

[kgg]

41 minutes ago, benzy50 said:

I will be using the other half's Jaguar 405 sewing machine with a walking for attachment. I did I test with 2 layers of 1.3 mm leather and worked fine will have to do another with 4 layers and see.

I would also do a test in combination with the kevlar lining and thread that you are plan on using. Personally I think the domestic sewing machine is going to struggle if it will do the job at all. Remember the thicker the leather the better the protection. Yes the thicker the leather the heavier weight wise the jacket will be but the last time I dumped a bike in a bend the pavement burned through the chaps, jeans, medium duty leather jacket and the 4mm thick belt I was wearing. Road rash is a nasty thing.

kgg

[Heartless]

agreed, road rash is a very nasty thing.

personally, i would not go any less than 2mm, and even heavier, or doubled up in key areas, like back, shoulders, elbows, etc.

[benzy50]

My plan is to double up in areas so would be around 3mm in key areas, aswell as armour inside to the shoulders, elbow and back 

[dikman]

I'll be surprised if a domestic machine will handle that (although some of the old Singer cast iron ones might). The Jaguar is listed as a lightweight machine and the so-called "walking feet" that domestic machines use is a far cry from a proper walking foot. I reckon it will struggle with more than a couple of layers.