Singer 111W Tight/Stuck Stitch Length Wheel

[cynthiab]

Hi guys,

 

First I’d like to thank Uwe Grosse for his fabulous videos. I would never have got this Singer 111W153 machine running properly without them. Also, I’d like to thank Wizcrafts, kgg and Cowboy Bob for all their great instructions on getting this machine up and running. She now has a fresh paint job and looks great. (I will send photos soon)

With that said I can’t leave well enough alone. I have had periodic problems with my stitch length. In that, when I press the button and turn the wheel sometimes it is impossible to turn very much. It sort of grinds to a stop locks up.

I watched Owe Grosse’s video titled “Singer 111w155 stitch length issues.

Feed Eccentric Adjustment” That seemed to help a bit, but I can’t get the number 5 directly in the center of the window anymore (looks like maybe 5.5) And worse, on the other end I can only get to 30 and sometimes 32, then again some times to only 28 before it locks up. It is variable. Anyone else have this problem?

I did notice on Uwe’s video that his disks underneath have a divit that lines up differently from mine. I have attached photos of his and my machines with red lines pointing out the differences. Could it be that I need to loosen mine and turn it until it lines up like his? (I “think” his was set on #5, mine was too) Is there a groove in the shaft that a screw sits in that will dictate how it is set?

Also, I’m strongly considering replacing my hook driving shaft because I feel it has a slight bend in it. (a tight spot when I turn the hand wheel) Is this a nightmare job or can it be done by me without too much hassle?

Thanks guys!

Cindy

[CowboyBob]

That "divit" will be at different positions @ different stitch lengths.Also it wouldn't hurt to put some oil in the stitch length cam to make it work smoother.

Edited June 22, 2023 by CowboyBob

[kgg]

14 hours ago, cynthiab said:

a tight spot when I turn the hand wheel

Does it have a tight spot without the drive belt installed on the machine? Before I would attempt replacing things I would give the internals a really good oil bath and flush with some synthetic transmission oil combined with some light synthetic oil to penetrate deep in all the bushings surfaces and bearings.

Looks like a nice color for the paint job.

kgg

[cynthiab]

Hi Cowboy Bob. Thank you for your suggestion.  I had taken the scews out like Uwe suggested in his video. Cleaned the shim, oiled entire unit all up. ( this was after 48 hour so wd40 and heat to get the screws loose) It was much better but still I can't get to all the numbers of stitches.  I locks up some times at 28, 30 or 32 and I can't quite get to 5 only 5.5. 

[cynthiab]

kgg, Yes I have removed the belt to test it. I also placed a scew driver up next to the shaft (near the bobbin saddle) as I turned it and I'm pretty sure there was a tiny wobble.  The feed dog cam has worn uneven spot on the follower ( don't know the name, it's shaped like a U).

Is replacing the shaft a ugly job or a cake walk? Are there any little things I need to look out for when I replace the shaft?

Edited June 22, 2023 by cynthiab

[cynthiab]

Here is her new paint job.

I used rustoleum 2x Cranberry and Max 2k clear epoxy. That clear epoxy is fantastic but very nasty stuff to be exposed to. So if you use it gear up professionally. 

Edited June 22, 2023 by cynthiab

[AlZilla]

1 hour ago, cynthiab said:

Hi Cowboy Bob. Thank you for your suggestion.  I had taken the scews out like Uwe suggested in his video. Cleaned the shim, oiled entire unit all up. ( this was after 48 hour so wd40 and heat to get the screws loose) It was much better but still I can't get to all the numbers of stitches.  I locks up some times at 28, 30 or 32 and I can't quite get to 5 only 5.5. 

@cynthiab

Have you set it to the max stitch length and counted the stitches?  Maybe you're getting 5 but the indicator doesn't go all the way. That's the case with my 111w153. You could just run a few inches in paper or cardboard without thread.

Locking up on the other end, I have no idea.

[cynthiab]

AlZilla

Thank you for your reply,  I tested it as you suggested

 On the 5 setting, I get 5 stitches per inch ( really 4 3/4 ) By stitches I mean not needle holes, but stitches, so 6 needle holes. Is that how you are counting too? 

Since I did that now I can not get it to move past 10 stitches before it locks up and can't turn the hand wheel.

Seems it is getting worse. 

Any ideas what is going on?

[AlZilla]

41 minutes ago, cynthiab said:

AlZilla

Thank you for your reply,  I tested it as you suggested

 On the 5 setting, I get 5 stitches per inch ( really 4 3/4 ) By stitches I mean not needle holes, but stitches, so 6 needle holes. Is that how you are counting too? 

Since I did that now I can not get it to move past 10 stitches before it locks up and can't turn the hand wheel.

Seems it is getting worse. 

Any ideas what is going on?

Yep, that's how I'd count them. The first hole would be zero, basically.  Now you know it's dialing all the way back.

As for why it's hanging in the other direction ... I haven't a clue, sorry. The Sewing Machine Sages here will have to sort it out. If it were me, I'd start by looking at the chain of things that happen when you're adjusting the length.  There's got to be a burr or some roughness in whatever it is that adjusts the stitch length.

[kgg]

5 hours ago, cynthiab said:

Is replacing the shaft a ugly job or a cake walk?

That is a very nicely done paint job and love the color. Only you can say it is too much work but here are a three video's which may help.

i) Feed dog cam how you set the height and replace the yolk over the cam --- fairly simple

Singer 111W155 feed dog lifting cam and fork -----

ii) This is for a Consew 226r which for your Singer should be very similar if not the same. Check out the 6:53 minute part of the video.

Consew 226r Large Bobbin conversion Juki LU-563 -----

iii) For your stitch length problems this video explains how the stitch length works. It is for a 111W155 which is the same as the 111W153. Note if the main shaft has a lot of movement from front to back you should check and see if a set screw hasn't backed off or you have a bad shaft bushing. If the stitch length mechanism is worn out replacing it means the whole bottom end needs to come apart. I would consider that to be a ugly job. Youtube would allow me to embed the video.

Singer 111W155 Stitch Length Selector ----https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsbquYazHx0

kgg

[cynthiab]

kgg, thank you for those videos.  I think I will go for replacing the shaft. It seems pretty straight forward. I hope I don't make a mess of it.

The stitch selector video was helpful too. Tomorrow I'll go have another look at it and see what I can do. I'll get back you you on the results.

 

 

[CowboyBob]

8 hours ago, cynthiab said:

kgg, thank you for those videos.  I think I will go for replacing the shaft. It seems pretty straight forward. I hope I don't make a mess of it.

The stitch selector video was helpful too. Tomorrow I'll go have another look at it and see what I can do. I'll get back you you on the results.

 

 

Maybe you have the little screws on what we call the gib too tight on the stitch length adjuster,I wouldn't change the shaft if I were you.If you oil & run the machine some it will probably loosen up.With the pressure foot down they will have a tight spot in them when they push the foot up,is it still have a tight spot when you lift the foot?

[cynthiab]

Cowboy Bob,

Thank you for the suggestions. When I have loosened it did help a little.

 I will loosen it some more. I let you know if I have success.  Fingers crossed, that it would be that easy.

[CowboyBob]

43 minutes ago, cynthiab said:

Cowboy Bob,

Thank you for the suggestions. When I have loosened it did help a little.

 I will loosen it some more. I let you know if I have success.  Fingers crossed, that it would be that easy.

Just tighten them all the way in & loosen 1/8 of a turn @ the most,too loose & they'll fall out & they won't hold the stitch length.

[DonInReno]

I really like that color - good job!

The lower shafts come out pretty easily, but old screws might be really tight and everything gets disassembled so take a lot of photos and even make small scribe marks to it can be reassembled in the correct order.   You might even discover a few set screws are of the wrong shape or have been out of the proper location this entire time.  In general, removing something for minor issues makes more problems than it solves.

An easy way to check for bent shafts is a cheap dial indicator and magnetic mount - even a $20 set from Harbor freight or Amazon will work fine for this kind of thing.  It just lets you know if there is a bent shaft and if so how bad it is.   You can also use it if a shaft needs to be straightened to judge if you’re bending it enough.

Edited June 25, 2023 by DonInReno

[dikman]

I haven't got anything to add regarding your stitch length problem (sorry) but I wanted to congratulate you on the paint job, it's quite stunning! It gives the gold lettering real depth.

[Ironmountain56]

Hello @cynthiab did you ever get this fixed? If not you can loosen the two screws on the ring to the right of the spring. They will not change the timing of anything, they’re there to hold tension on the ring on the left of the spring, it changes the stitch length and probably has something jamming it on the inside. So after loosening th two screw on the right, slide the ring and spring to the right and then slide the stitch adjuster to the right. From there clean out the groove and then you adjust the dovetail slide to slide easier. Hope this helps your project. Richard