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Doc Reaper

Wet Molding Holsters

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4 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

toxo blue guns are exact replicas of the gun so real guns don't have to be used. the wet forming process of the type holster he makes uses the forming as the friction that holds the weapon secure in the holster, its not for looks necessarily  so the fit has to be exact.  I think that's the part you aren't understanding of the question. The sewing also has to be tight and exact along the lines of the guns so the leather doesn't lose its form and fit as time goes on.  

I understand why toxo would want to use clay to make a mold! I have had an active leather shop for the last 13 years, and I have yet to see the same gun twice, once someone bought in one just like mine. Most of these pistols weren’t even close in design. From 17 to 50 caliber and there is no medium I can go off of to make multiple holsters. Blue Guns cost around $50 and up, if they were like $15 or $20 then I would have a collection but I guess somewhere along the line plastic has turned into gold. If I knew how to make foundry type molds I would use the lead I have collected (200 lbs) to make dummies - ANY INPUT IS WELCOME ON THIS, PM ME WITH MOLD MAKING IDEAS

Edited by Doc Reaper
Knit picking

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19 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:

 . . . ANY INPUT IS WELCOME ON THIS, PM ME WITH MOLD MAKING IDEAS

search out, if you can, people who do 3D printing. They operate places called 'workerspaces' or similar. They can 3D scan a gun and print it out in plastic. There are local restrictions tho

You really don't want to use 'foundry' type moulding with an original gun. I used to that on a small scale to make car badges and such. You use 'oil sand' to make the mould, but that can get into the gun mechanisms which I think, unless absolutely & fully cleaned out might damage the mechanism

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9 minutes ago, Doc Reaper said:

I understand why toxo would want to use clay to make a mold! I have had an active leather shop for the last 13 years, and I have yet to see the same gun twice, once someone bought in one just like mine. Most of these pistols weren’t even close in design. From 17 to 50 caliber and there is no medium I can go off of to make multiple holsters. Blue Guns cost around $50 and up, if they were like $15 or $20 then I would have a collection but I guess somewhere along the line plastic has turned into gold. If I knew how to make foundry type molds I would use the lead I have collected (200 lbs) to make dummies - ANY INPUT IS WELCOME ON THIS, PM ME WITH MOLD MAKING IDEAS

I didn't know if he understood the intricate type of forming needed  for the type being made as he doesn't make holsters. Western , hunting, cc or IWb  are all different characters and he may not be aware of the differences.

yea when i make a custom holster i use the owners weapon or one of mine if i have the same one. I cant afford those prices either.  But I don't make the type that needs that kind of forming most folks out here want hunting rigs not cc fighting rigs. Aluminum is a good choice for homemade copies, you can get lawn mower engines for free most times  and sand casting is pretty easy. but then what does you time cost to find the aluminum clean and melt it then cast it up. plus buy or make the tools to do it.

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5 minutes ago, fredk said:

search out, if you can, people who do 3D printing. They operate places called 'workerspaces' or similar. They can 3D scan a gun and print it out in plastic. There are local restrictions tho

You really don't want to use 'foundry' type moulding with an original gun. I used to that on a small scale to make car badges and such. You use 'oil sand' to make the mould, but that can get into the gun mechanisms which I think, unless absolutely & fully cleaned out might damage the mechanism

they would have to be wrapped well for sure for casting, i wonder what the cost of 3d would be just in the plastic needed from what i have read its kind of costly also.

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40 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

they would have to be wrapped well for sure for casting, i wonder what the cost of 3d would be just in the plastic needed from what i have read its kind of costly also.

I have 3D printed a few guns. The cost is around $2.00 to $2.50 for a Glock 17. Smaller guns will be less, larger guns more.

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You can get filament and liquid resin printers. I have a resin printer. The resin costs about $25 for a 1kg bottle

This figure is 28mm tall. It used 5p of resin, about 6c?

DSCF9787 - Copy, 01LWs.jpg

Even if the whole bottle of resin were to be used that would be $25 or £30 (resin is dearer here). But at a guestimate only about 1/3 of a bottle would be used. The main price is in the scanning and making the computer file

Doc says a blue gun is $50. Bunkhouse Tools sells resin cast SAA type guns for $36 - https://bunkhousetools.com/shop-1/ols/products/colt-xn-45-sa-5-1-2-barrel-xs9j    It would cost another $30 to ship it to me if I wanted one

 Once you have the printer file you can print off as many copies as you want. You could sell surplus copies. (And within the computer file you can resize the object)

 

 

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2 minutes ago, GatoGordo said:

I have 3D printed a few guns. The cost is around $2.00 to $2.50 for a Glock 17. Smaller guns will be less, larger guns more.

interesting and cost effective how do you get the dimensions

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9 minutes ago, GatoGordo said:

I have 3D printed a few guns. The cost is around $2.00 to $2.50 for a Glock 17. Smaller guns will be less, larger guns more.

there speaks experience

edit; I've just asked for some of this thread chat to be separated off as it has drifted so far from the OP's question

Edited by fredk

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19 minutes ago, fredk said:

there speaks experience

edit; I've just asked for some of this thread chat to be separated off as it has drifted so far from the OP's question

good idea! 

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I used to use all kinds of pattern measurement formulas to get the stitch line as close as possible to the firearm when making a wrap around holster.
But as soon as you change leather, or case it differently, the wet forming changes, and your pattern is off.
Then, in an old issue of the Leather Craftsman, a saddle maker modified a pair of Vise Grip duct workers pliers to pull the cantle binding tight and create his stitch line.
I did the same and have never measured since. This is an example of a close stitch line.
This was hand blocked and boned to the actual pistol while a sight track was in place.  I use blue guns too, but prefer the actual piece.

SA1911Askins.jpg

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1 hour ago, Gunfitters said:

. . . 
Then, in an old issue of the Leather Craftsman, a saddle maker modified a pair of Vise Grip duct workers pliers to pull the cantle binding tight and create his stitch line.
I did the same and have never measured since. . . . 

 

I would like to see yours please, if at all possible

Would something like these welders Vice Grips work? Although the non-parallel jaws might be a problem

1333900_700.jpg

Maybe these with the jaws ground smooth?

Sec44bace1c06419ca5289084ce2dd9eap.jpg_6

 

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1 hour ago, fredk said:

I would like to see yours please, if at all possible

Would something like these welders Vice Grips work? Although the non-parallel jaws might be a problem

1333900_700.jpg

Maybe these with the jaws ground smooth?

Sec44bace1c06419ca5289084ce2dd9eap.jpg_6

 

The first type is the kind I use.  Once you are pinching two layers of 8/9 oz. together,  the non-parallel jaws are not an issue.   All the edges are smooth and radiused.
This one is cut for normal trigger guards, but one could be cut for finger groove types like Glocks.  I was thinking of using a tool dip on the blades, but there never has been a 
staining issue.  (The holster is just there for reference, the jaws would be used much earlier in the molding process)

ViseGrip.jpg

ViseGripH.jpg

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Thanks

Another tool to go buy . . . . . . . . Yippee!  :banana:

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