Members Temptations Posted July 12, 2023 Members Report Posted July 12, 2023 I started leatherwork originally to make harnesses. So I bought a whole side of leather I feel like maybe I am missing some steps. First I use my strap cutter to cut the leather. Then I use tokonole and a glass burnisher for the back side of the leather. So it's not all fuzzy. Once dry I bevel the edges. Then the lengthy process of burnishing the edges. And then I Punch out the holes for buttons or snaps or rivets. And this is where I begin to stress out because I don't understand the "finishing processes" the leather isn't tooled and I won't be antiquing. But I've seen so many things online that says to use a balsm or a bees wax/olive oil concoction. Or resolene or pro resist and so on.... Does anyone have any advice for me Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted July 12, 2023 Contributing Member Report Posted July 12, 2023 Not dyeing? This would be my way cut strap dampen leather and bevel edges, punch holes for fittings, skive area where buckle will fit dye seal dye with thinned resolene, thinned Pledge 'Floor Polish' or one of my magic mixes Rub in my beeswax/nfo mix. On front to polish, use it on edges to slick and on the back to smooth that put fittings on maybe, a couple of days later, rub in and buff more beeswax mix Quote
Members Temptations Posted July 12, 2023 Author Members Report Posted July 12, 2023 This is the leather I bought Quote
Members PastorBob Posted July 12, 2023 Members Report Posted July 12, 2023 Welcome to the forum from SW Missouri, USA. Since the leather is already colored, no dye will be necessary. You will want something on the leather to protect it from the elements. I would use a waterproofing compound of some kind. Beeswax is a perfect solution along with other chemical compounds. I would not use resolene on it...others may weigh in. Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted July 12, 2023 CFM Report Posted July 12, 2023 8 hours ago, Temptations said: I started leatherwork originally to make harnesses. So I bought a whole side of leather I feel like maybe I am missing some steps. First I use my strap cutter to cut the leather. Then I use tokonole and a glass burnisher for the back side of the leather. So it's not all fuzzy. Once dry I bevel the edges. Then the lengthy process of burnishing the edges. And then I Punch out the holes for buttons or snaps or rivets. And this is where I begin to stress out because I don't understand the "finishing processes" the leather isn't tooled and I won't be antiquing. But I've seen so many things online that says to use a balsm or a bees wax/olive oil concoction. Or resolene or pro resist and so on.... Does anyone have any advice for me Just so everyone is on the same page are these for horses, dogs, people? Quote
CFM Frodo Posted July 12, 2023 CFM Report Posted July 12, 2023 IF , these are for horses then they will get wet with sweat and rain every day i am not a saddle tack leather worker but I have ridden and have been around a few barns in my day. They need to be sealed Water protectant. My go to would be to toss them into a bucket of neets floor, olive oil is a substitute others that are knowledgeable on horse tack may have better ideas Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted July 12, 2023 Contributing Member Report Posted July 12, 2023 @Temptations If you are using pre-dyed you won't need any sealer, just a waterproofer. A beeswax & carnauba wax mix or Snow Proof. The wax mix could also be used to smooth down the flesh side https://www.tandyleather.world/products/fiebing-snow-proof-paste-3oz?_pos=1&_sid=6237f3b36&_ss=r Quote
Members Temptations Posted July 12, 2023 Author Members Report Posted July 12, 2023 11 hours ago, chuck123wapati said: Just so everyone is on the same page are these for horses, dogs, people? People ... Harnesses for people lol and other leather goods Quote
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