A few questions on the Adler 30-1

[Scorpio Leatherworks]

Hello from Germany guys,

longtime lurker first time poster.

I just inherited a lovely Adler 30-1 from the 1940´s that runs like a dream,

but while trying to switch the drive belt to the other pulley it disintegrated into several dozen pieces.

So if anyone knows the length i need to cut the replacement to, please let me know.

Also I´d love to retrofit an electric servo motor, but have no idea what motor to buy or if it can even be done to such an old machine?

Furthermore i was also unable to find any info on what kind of grease goes into that trough the thread is pulled through.

If anyone could give me some pointers I´d be deeply grateful.

Cheers Scorpio

 

   

[shoepatcher]

I can help you.  Is it on a treadle stand?  Do not need any  oil or grease in the oil boat on top if you are using nylon or polyester thread since most come lubricated.

You are looking for a one piece servo motor.  Not sure what is available in Europe. If in  US,  I can tell you.  You might check with Strima in Poland to see what they carry.  You will need to have the motor come with a 45-50mm pulley on it.  No bigger.

glenn

[Scorpio Leatherworks]

4 hours ago, shoepatcher said:

I can help you.  Is it on a treadle stand?  Do not need any  oil or grease in the oil boat on top if you are using nylon or polyester thread since most come lubricated.

You are looking for a one piece servo motor.  Not sure what is available in Europe. If in  US,  I can tell you.  You might check with Strima in Poland to see what they carry.  You will need to have the motor come with a 45-50mm pulley on it.  No bigger.

glenn

Thanks Glenn,

yes it is on the original iron stand.

Good to know that I need not worry about lubrication.

I think regarding the motor I´ll try the local Sewing-shops, one has a highly regarded repair service.

 Scorpio  

[Uwe]

I set up an Adler 30-1 recently, using a 1,500W servo motor with a 50mm pulley and a needle position sensor. It works beautifully, especially with the needle position sensor. I can adjust the needle stop positions to perfectly catch the brief moment where the foot lifts up, to easily change direction. The other needle stop position for the perfect position to pull the material out of the machine.

My table is a custom made piece with the motor mounted on top just behind the machine. Your cast iron table may have a very different layout, but it may be suitable for mounting the motor in a similar position. My preference is for three-piece servo motor sets (motor, controller, and speed input are separate pieces , not integrated.) This allows for the most flexible installation options, in my experience.

I happened to have a suitable 3L belt on hand to use with my setup. You can also use  a 5/16” (8mm) polyurethane belt material to make a custom length belt in about five minutes, and it’s much easier than trying to find a belt at the hardware or automotive store.

Here are a few pics from my Adler 30-1 motor installation. The motor is mounted on a hinge, with an adjustable latch to change belt tension. 

 

 

This picture shows the door hinge I used to attach the motor to the table:

 

This picture shows the adjustable latch to put tension on the belt:

 

 

I used a similar setup for a Juki LS-341. This picture shows both machines and how the speed input is mounted and connected to the pedal. The motor on the Juki is mounted in a fixed position directly to the table. I adjusted the length of the polyurethane belt to provide the correct tension. The polyurethane belt is a like very thick rubber band and can be stretched a little to install and remove the belt. This is particularly useful if the machine doesn’t tilt back, like the Adler or similar patchers. 

 

This may not be the exact same setup you’ll use on your Adler, but looking at different installations may help you figure out how you can solve your particular installation problem.

 

Edited July 25, 2023 by Uwe

[shoepatcher]

Scorpio Leatherworks,

See if you can get a one piece servo motor in Europe with a 45mm-50mm pulley on it first.  Let me know and we can go from there.

glenn

[Scorpio Leatherworks]

Thanks Uwe and Shoepatcher,

that certainly helped a lot.

But I still can´t figure out how long to cut the leather drive-belt so I can use the treadle mechanism in the interim,

(I was rather surprised not to find that piece of information in the Manual that came with the machine).

Cheers 

Scorpio

 

[Uwe]

You just wrap the uncut,  too-long piece of leather belting around the hand wheel and treadle wheel and hold the ends so they overlap. Where the belts ends overlap, that’s where you cut. Use a metal clip to connect the ends. Use a normal tape measure to estimate how long the belt material should be, then buy it a little longer to be on the safe side. Having some extra also allows you to practice connecting the ends before you work on the actual belt. 

I’d recommend using urethane belting instead of leather. It’s easy to make custom belts from urethane belt stock and they will very likely last much longer.

Depending on your treadle base design, you may have to connect the belt ends after you thread the open belt into place (sometimes it’s not possible to hook up an already-closed belt.)

 

Please post a bunch  pictures of your machine and treadle from various angles. We want to see what you have, and it’s often useful  to just add an arrow to a picture rather than composing a long paragraph to describe what we’re talking about. 

Edited July 30, 2023 by Uwe

[shoepatcher]

please post pics of your Adler on the stand.  That will help,

Uwe,

what is the cylinder arm machine on the floor in the back in your photo?
glenn

Edited July 31, 2023 by shoepatcher
grammar

[Uwe]

1 hour ago, shoepatcher said:

what is the cylinder arm machine on the floor in the back in your photo?

That’s a Cowboy CB3200, waiting to be put into service. 

[Scorpio Leatherworks]

Thanks Guys,

I´ll try to take and post some pictures shortly.

Scorpio