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Handstitched

Plain Raised Browbands

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How is the ' raised' part made?  Is it similar to making rounds? A rounded wood  mold, moistened leather , and suitable hammer ,  and leather molded into shape?   Just thought I'd adapt the same method for making dog collars. I made a collar with a raised part this arvo,, its good enough for sale,  but the method  needs refining.  This  may even become a foray into  making tack . 

I did do a search before I posted, without success. 

Thanks

HS

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On 9/26/2023 at 1:41 PM, Handstitched said:

How is the ' raised' part made?  Is it similar to making rounds? A rounded wood  mold, moistened leather , and suitable hammer ,  and leather molded into shape?   Just thought I'd adapt the same method for making dog collars. I made a collar with a raised part this arvo,, its good enough for sale,  but the method  needs refining.  This  may even become a foray into  making tack . 

I did do a search before I posted, without success. 

Thanks

HS

He is a couple of clips from YouTube that may be of be some help, it is the same method for a Browband.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajI5AyaXh8M With a Skirt Shave/French Edger.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KU5IzvX3lrc With a Single Head Knife.

You can use this method also just make sure you use a high number edge shave on the filler to give it the rounder looking finished look. A larger number Hollow Edge Shave if you have one would give it a better appearance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rz6VA5mhwbo

Hope this helps

JCUK

 

 

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@jcuk covered it well with the links.  I'd only add that the first 2 video links are what I call a "swell" -2 straps with skived edges formed in a rounding block.  The 3rd link is what I call "raised leather" - a split strap with a filler inserted.  Whatever terminology you prefer they are different techniques.   

For swells I use a Japanese style knife or a head knife for most of the skiving and do a bit of leveling up with a French edger.  I case the top strap after skiving and shape it in a rounding block, check its fit to the backer strap, then let it dry a few hours before gluing and assembling the 2 straps.  I keep the backer strap dry and shape the curved front around it.  I haven't figured out how to sew swells on a machine so I hand sew them.

DSC_9210.thumb.jpg.3d06a9512fd5cfc1d4970b1bdbde2970.jpg

For raised leather I am splitting ~10 oz leather to ~ 3 oz of grain side and the rest as flesh side, or I split another strap for the backer so both sides have grain showing.  The backer strap serves as a stiff platform to shape the grain side around a filler strip.  I use a ~5 oz filler strip for a 10 oz split strap.  The edges are trimmed after gluing and assembly, so I typically start with a strap that is ~3/8" wider than the desired finished width.  You'll need a larger margin if sewing with a machine.  An in-line or narrow pressor foot set will help.  I have a bucket full of practice straps that are my raised leather graveyard.  By playing around with thicknesses and widths you can create different looks.

DSC_9166.thumb.jpg.b4a6d941f497f016a98182743728e9f5.jpg

 

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On 9/28/2023 at 2:13 AM, jcuk said:

He is a couple of clips from YouTube that may be of be some help, it is the same method for a Browband.

I watched the second clip for the dog collar , a bit shorter. The rounding blocks is what I figured. I just need to make some now. 

On 9/28/2023 at 5:44 AM, TomE said:

I haven't figured out how to sew swells on a machine so I hand sew them.

The second pic is exactly what I had in mind. I'll try to machine sew them ( have a 441 clone).. I also have just the perfect ' round tool' . Its a  brass milliners tool for making hats with a round ball at the end . Its been staring at me all these years on my bench, its now actually going to get used. 

Thanks to you both :specool: I now have a much better understanding of how its done.

HS

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8 hours ago, Handstitched said:

I watched the second clip for the dog collar , a bit shorter. The rounding blocks is what I figured. I just need to make some now. 

The second pic is exactly what I had in mind. I'll try to machine sew them ( have a 441 clone).. I also have just the perfect ' round tool' . Its a  brass milliners tool for making hats with a round ball at the end . Its been staring at me all these years on my bench, its now actually going to get used. 

Thanks to you both :specool: I now have a much better understanding of how its done.

HS

My brother made a rounding block for me out of pine and I gave it a light coat of beeswax.  This was a prototype before he makes one out of hardwood, but it has been working fine for 18 months.  The only commercial rounding block that I found is sold by Abbey England.  The brass ball sounds like a good fit.  I use a bone folder an a large pear shader for 5/8" straps. 

The trick about sewing a swell with a machine is there's no flat surface for the pressor foot and the strap slips sideways under pressure.  Will be very interested in how you do this.  For raised leather with a flat filler strip an inline foot can be used on the narrow margin, but to sew really close to the raised element I run an inside foot on top of the filler strip.

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Just a quick update, I have a  a woodworker friend of mine that can make me a mold for the ' raised dog collars . :specool:   He's not going to charge me anything,  theres no such thing as a free lunch in my world, even if its just a few beers  :)

HS 

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1 hour ago, Handstitched said:

Just a quick update, I have a  a woodworker friend of mine that can make me a mold for the ' raised dog collars .

Looking forward to hearing about your experiences with the raised leather. Always looking for new ideas and improvements. 

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