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  • CFM
Posted

I stumbled onto an antique if hack that I assume most of you already know but is new to me

Using an ink pen

I stamped it, then ran my black pen in the lines, then antique stained as usual 

I had no issues what so ever

 

image.thumb.jpg.945b8f30db1d1549a0ce85ccad27ff82.jpg

 

 

Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles

Stand your ass up during the National Anthem 

 

  • Members
Posted

Frodo, was this a marker pen (Sharpie) or just a regular ink pen?

Interesting! I've always had a problem with antique not going where I want it to, and the whole project turning out much darker than I'd like, even when I use a resist like super-sheen or Resolene. It's reached the point where if want the background dark, I'll paint it with a small brush instead of antiquing.

  • Members
Posted

Looks much better than my attempt at antiquing last night.  I forgot to put down the beeswax I meant to use as a resist, so I got more of a mottled/splotched dark brown staining across the whole notebook cover rather than just lightly staining the surface and settling into the grooves of the tooling.

  • Members
Posted
47 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Frodo, was this a marker pen (Sharpie) or just a regular ink pen?

Interesting! I've always had a problem with antique not going where I want it to, and the whole project turning out much darker than I'd like, even when I use a resist like super-sheen or Resolene. It's reached the point where if want the background dark, I'll paint it with a small brush instead of antiquing.

I've found some hides need a bit more of a resist layer or the antique darkens the whole piece a bit too much for me, usually a piece of hide with a bit more open pores than i like. Sometimes 1 coat of 50/50 resolene/water, sometimes i need a second cut coat before antiquing. I've taken to using scrap wool more oft than not and it really gets off the excess quick, the more antique i want left though i'll just use scrap rags.

 

Some hides just want to be cantankerous and take everything different lol

  • CFM
Posted
11 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Frodo, was this a marker pen (Sharpie) or just a regular ink pen?

Interesting! I've always had a problem with antique not going where I want it to, and the whole project turning out much darker than I'd like, even when I use a resist like super-sheen or Resolene. It's reached the point where if want the background dark, I'll paint it with a small brush instead of antiquing.

Just  a cheapy bic penimage.thumb.jpg.1330610a34973b4d4944be55602b1523.jpg

 

Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles

Stand your ass up during the National Anthem 

 

  • CFM
Posted

I think I am going to 

buy some colored pens,  maybe i will be onto something

 

Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles

Stand your ass up during the National Anthem 

 

  • Contributing Member
Posted

I've not used pens for antiquing but I use them for other lining jobs, such as letters. Gel ink pens work best but need care as the ink is not waterproof. Brushing on a sealer over the ink can smudge it. I dab on a light first coat of the sealer, then a heavier coat

Pens used on a number of these and some coffee cup cuffs

AMSIG coin purse, 01LWexs.JPG

 

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

  • 2 months later...
  • Members
Posted


I use a permanent marker, dark brown or sepia, in areas that are not deep enough for antiquing  to fill.  Here is an example of lettering that I have “rubbed in” with a stylus, used a marker in the lettering and then antiqued.  Works good.  

F1A7F94C-CA4A-4188-BDB5-C17BD675281B.jpeg

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Excellent idea

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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