Sandal maker returns

[deboardp]

I had a leather shop for about four years after I left the military in 1968. I made hundreds of pairs and loved it. I was a poor businessman, though, and I went on to other things. After a career in remodel contracting I have returned to sandal making. The past 12 months I have spent ten grand buying what I need for another sandal shop. I should launch production in one month. 

The shop is in my apartment and there is someone living under me and someone across the hall.  When I glue the soles together, I don't want to hammer them when the glue is sticky, like I used to do, out of consideration for my neighbors. I can't find a manual press for helping the glue bond. I need something that can press between straps, along the edge of the sandals. It will need a longish handle. I won't something that can press every spot on a sandal quickly, thus handle- operated is a must. I also wonder if I'm using the right kind of leather for the soles and straps. I can't find anyone who's making leather sandals and who might be willing to share information. My name is Patrick, my product will be custom leather sandals of my design, machine stitched, no strap between the toes, straps are fully adjustable, and there's a gum rubber bottom. I haven't made a pair yet but I have a sketch.  I have to build my website in the next month with ecommerce store. I'm starting with just one design of sandals, which I developed over this past 12 months. I made about 15 designs my first time around. I'll probably make others, especially if requested. I'm using shoulder for top sole. 

This might work using the selfie camera. 

[Dwight]

Harbor freight sells a half ton or one ton arbor press . . . a tad heavy . . . will need bolted to a table top or something . . . but with a larger flat surface . . . and a piece of 2 by 6 that you fashion to slip into the straps and lay flat along the top piece . . . you can put some serious "quiet" pressure on the thing.

If you've never used one . . . that little round table comes off . . . giving you a place to lay a piece of 2 x 6 . . . add the sandal bottom . . . slip in the formed piece for the top . . . pull down on the handle . . . voila . . . done.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-59766.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTcyMDQ4MTIiLCJza3UiOiI1OTc2NiIsImlzIjoiNjIuOTkifQ%3D%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20737678297&campaignid=20737678297&utm_content=156191151498&adsetid=156191151498&product=59766&store=3113&gclid=CjwKCAjw15eqBhBZEiwAbDomEobTEjJnQG46i4KEr6GpH-siVkskQNeWXaUPPHRZdlGB2RDMXPCI8RoCYrcQAvD_BwE

May God bless,

Dwight

[chuck123wapati]

I've always wondered if one of these would work for glue ups.https://www.amazon.com/Calliger-Crank-Clothes-Wringer-Rollers/dp/B00OAPW6GM

[Aven]

Lisa Sorrell sells a sole press. Its designed to be used with lasts, but you could cut a sandal sole shaped piece of plywood in the sizes you make.  It has a small foot print so it would be eating up space  in your apartment. 

 

https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/sole-press/

[deboardp]

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

Harbor freight sells a half ton or one ton arbor press . . . a tad heavy . . . will need bolted to a table top or something . . . but with a larger flat surface . . . and a piece of 2 by 6 that you fashion to slip into the straps and lay flat along the top piece . . . you can put some serious "quiet" pressure on the thing.

If you've never used one . . . that little round table comes off . . . giving you a place to lay a piece of 2 x 6 . . . add the sandal bottom . . . slip in the formed piece for the top . . . pull down on the handle . . . voila . . . done.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-59766.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTcyMDQ4MTIiLCJza3UiOiI1OTc2NiIsImlzIjoiNjIuOTkifQ%3D%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20737678297&campaignid=20737678297&utm_content=156191151498&adsetid=156191151498&product=59766&store=3113&gclid=CjwKCAjw15eqBhBZEiwAbDomEobTEjJnQG46i4KEr6GpH-siVkskQNeWXaUPPHRZdlGB2RDMXPCI8RoCYrcQAvD_BwE

May God bless,

Dwight

I think this might work! Thanks!

[deboardp]

1 hour ago, chuck123wapati said:

I've always wondered if one of these would work for glue ups.https://www.amazon.com/Calliger-Crank-Clothes-Wringer-Rollers/dp/B00OAPW6GM

There's the problem of straps sticking up out of the topsole... plus I think this thing might displace the soles from each other, because it is essentially pushing away as it squeezes. I need the force to be only perpendicular to the topsole, pressing it into the mid and bottom soles, although i will be doing it in  two parts. First, press the top into the midsole, then the mid into the bottom. Thanks for the suggestion!

[deboardp]

25 minutes ago, Aven said:

Lisa Sorrell sells a sole press. Its designed to be used with lasts, but you could cut a sandal sole shaped piece of plywood in the sizes you make.  It has a small foot print so it would be eating up space  in your apartment. 

 

https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/sole-press/

Al Bane sent me that link, too. I don't use lasts, as the sandals are flat, not wrap around the foot type. And I need just one point of downward pressure, without foam pads under the sandal. I need an ungiving surface below the sandal. I think I can work with the Harbor Freight press, mentioned by Dwight. I can make something that will press into the top sole to help the glue bond. I'll probably use a piece of white oak, sanded smooth, unless I can find something made of steel. thanks for your suggestion!

[Dwight]

12 hours ago, deboardp said:

Al Bane sent me that link, too. I don't use lasts, as the sandals are flat, not wrap around the foot type. And I need just one point of downward pressure, without foam pads under the sandal. I need an ungiving surface below the sandal. I think I can work with the Harbor Freight press, mentioned by Dwight. I can make something that will press into the top sole to help the glue bond. I'll probably use a piece of white oak, sanded smooth, unless I can find something made of steel. thanks for your suggestion!

Have you ever researched the way the Romans of Roman Empire days did their sandals for their troops?

I have a full Roman centurion rig I use in church for plays . . . etc.  They made their sandals out of a sole . . . then a piece that became the toe, heel, and side, . . . and then an inner sole above it.  All together . . . 3 layers of leather . . . and I made mine to complete the uniform.

Some day when I have nothing better to do . . . I'm going to make another pair which will be for me to actually wear . . . and I'll probably make them "high top" . . . as I have neuropathy in both feet . . . cannot stand a boot or anything that rubs my ankles . . . but I want something to keep the feet warmer than the Sketcher low cut athletic shoes.

May God bless,

Dwight

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caligae

[deboardp]

5 minutes ago, Dwight said:

Have you ever researched the way the Romans of Roman Empire days did their sandals for their troops?

I have a full Roman centurion rig I use in church for plays . . . etc.  They made their sandals out of a sole . . . then a piece that became the toe, heel, and side, . . . and then an inner sole above it.  All together . . . 3 layers of leather . . . and I made mine to complete the uniform.

Some day when I have nothing better to do . . . I'm going to make another pair which will be for me to actually wear . . . and I'll probably make them "high top" . . . as I have neuropathy in both feet . . . cannot stand a boot or anything that rubs my ankles . . . but I want something to keep the feet warmer than the Sketcher low cut athletic shoes.

May God bless,

Dwight

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caligae

Those things look heavy and uncomfortable, and they look aggressive, scary, and yeah, ugly. I'm hoping my sandals will be stylish, light, minimalistic, beautiful- looking, and that people will buy them to wear to church. My design is so that folks can wear socks with them. I'm almost ready to make a first prototype, maybe within the month. My idea is to make the leather gorgeous, and the design functional. I have five people lined up to test drive a pair, give feedback, in exchange they keep the sandals, or if a modification is needed, then they will get a working pair. I call them my product development team. 3 of them have lifetime issues with uncomfortable and ill- fitting footwear, which is why I selected them for the team. 

[Dwight]

27 minutes ago, deboardp said:

Those things look heavy and uncomfortable, and they look aggressive, scary, and yeah, ugly. I'm hoping my sandals will be stylish, light, minimalistic, beautiful- looking, and that people will buy them to wear to church. My design is so that folks can wear socks with them. I'm almost ready to make a first prototype, maybe within the month. My idea is to make the leather gorgeous, and the design functional. I have five people lined up to test drive a pair, give feedback, in exchange they keep the sandals, or if a modification is needed, then they will get a working pair. I call them my product development team. 3 of them have lifetime issues with uncomfortable and ill- fitting footwear, which is why I selected them for the team. 

As one with foot issues . . . thank you for selecting them . . . look forward to seeing more here.

May God bless,

Dwight

[AlZilla]

I know zip about sandal making but I've always understood that shoemakers prefer horse butt for soles.  Apparently it's very durable.

[deboardp]

5 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

I know zip about sandal making but I've always understood that shoemakers prefer horse butt for soles.  Apparently it's very durable.

I'm going to use 1/8" thick gum rubber, for grip. 50 years ago I used horse sides for my straps. I had heard it stretched less than cow sides. I used cow bend (butt) for bottom soles and found them to be very slippery on certain surfaces. 

[deboardp]

On 11/4/2023 at 8:02 AM, Dwight said:

Harbor freight sells a half ton or one ton arbor press . . . a tad heavy . . . will need bolted to a table top or something . . . but with a larger flat surface . . . and a piece of 2 by 6 that you fashion to slip into the straps and lay flat along the top piece . . . you can put some serious "quiet" pressure on the thing.

If you've never used one . . . that little round table comes off . . . giving you a place to lay a piece of 2 x 6 . . . add the sandal bottom . . . slip in the formed piece for the top . . . pull down on the handle . . . voila . . . done.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-59766.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTcyMDQ4MTIiLCJza3UiOiI1OTc2NiIsImlzIjoiNjIuOTkifQ%3D%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20737678297&campaignid=20737678297&utm_content=156191151498&adsetid=156191151498&product=59766&store=3113&gclid=CjwKCAjw15eqBhBZEiwAbDomEobTEjJnQG46i4KEr6GpH-siVkskQNeWXaUPPHRZdlGB2RDMXPCI8RoCYrcQAvD_BwE

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight, I have been concerned that I would have to  push more than I can manage on the handle of that thing, but in my internet wanderings I found this:

               

The 3 ton is 24" tall, while the 1 ton is less than 12" tall. I want to really press hard.

3 ton press, the big brother of the one you posted.  I wondered how much pressure was exerted when the head of the cobbler's hammer hit the leather top sole, and thought it might be more than 2000 pounds per square inch, so with this 3 ton press, I might be able to use just a portion of the travel, or whatever I can manage with my skinny old man arms, and get a good bond.  It's $259.99, but it seems nice.  I'll probably find some white oak cut-offs at the last job I did in construction (they still like me) to use for a base and for putting on the topsole.

On a side note, I bought Top Fit adhesive for gluing the three soles. Have you ever used it? My memory doesn't work, so I don't remember where I read that it was good, but I bought it. I had used Barge Cement back in the 70's. I'll try it, see if I can pull the leather apart with my hands, or pliers.

I'm going to order the 3-ton.

Edited November 20, 2023 by deboardp
more info

[Dwight]

2 minutes ago, deboardp said:

Dwight, I have been concerned that I would have to  push more than I can manage on the handle of that thing, but in my internet wanderings I found this:

          This is the three ton       This is the one you mentioned.

3 ton press, the big brother of the one you posted.  I wondered how much pressure was exerted when the head of the cobbler's hammer hit the leather top sole, and thought it might be more than 2000 pounds per square inch, so with this 3 ton press, I might be able to use just a portion of the travel, or whatever I can manage with my skinny old man arms, and get a good bond.  It's $259.99, but it seems nice.

On a side note, I bought Top Fit adhesive for gluing the three soles. Have you ever used it? My memory doesn't work, so I don't remember where I read that it was good, but I bought it. I had used Barge Cement back in the 70's. I'll try it, see if I can pull the leather apart with my hands, or pliers.

I'm going to order the 3-ton.

The 3 ton looks like with the longer handle . . . it might put a lot more pressure down in one stroke . . . 

As for glue . . . I use Weldwood contact cement . . . have for 20+ years . . . never had anything come apart yet at the glue joint.  If it is properly applied . . . you can pull it apart . . . but generally speaking what you are doing is tearing the leather . . . not breaking the glue bond.

That is not necessarily true on the hair side of some veg tan leather . . . you have to take a wire brush an scuff it up a big first . . . THEN it will hold.

For my 3 layer Roman sandals . . . I use the Weldwood.

May God bless,

Dwight

[deboardp]

2 minutes ago, Dwight said:

The 3 ton looks like with the longer handle . . . it might put a lot more pressure down in one stroke . . . 

As for glue . . . I use Weldwood contact cement . . . have for 20+ years . . . never had anything come apart yet at the glue joint.  If it is properly applied . . . you can pull it apart . . . but generally speaking what you are doing is tearing the leather . . . not breaking the glue bond.

That is not necessarily true on the hair side of some veg tan leather . . . you have to take a wire brush an scuff it up a big first . . . THEN it will hold.

For my 3 layer Roman sandals . . . I use the Weldwood.

May God bless,

Dwight

I edited the post right after you posted this. I just added that the 3 ton is roughly twice as tall and twice as deep as the 1 ton, and yes, it's a monster.  I'll try using the Top Fit and see how it does for me. My Cobra Class 26 will be here November 30, plus the Cobra burnisher, the small one $575.  I hope this 3 ton will be here around then. I'm gluing gum rubber to the bottom of the three leather soles, which will be stitched, but I won't stitch the gum rubber. That's replaceable, so I don't want to cut the stitches to replace it. Thus I want to press the snot out of it to get a good bond. I'll double coat. If I can pull it off, then I'll try Barge.

[deboardp]

Gluing leather

I just read this article and apparently I won't need a press to give a good bond. Light hammering will do the trick. 

[deboardp]

I'll get a 48" tall tree stump and do the hammering on top of that. It will be quieter then hammering on my bench surface. 

Edited November 22, 2023 by deboardp
Spelling

[deboardp]

On 11/4/2023 at 8:02 AM, Dwight said:

Harbor freight sells a half ton or one ton arbor press . . . a tad heavy . . . will need bolted to a table top or something . . . but with a larger flat surface . . . and a piece of 2 by 6 that you fashion to slip into the straps and lay flat along the top piece . . . you can put some serious "quiet" pressure on the thing.

If you've never used one . . . that little round table comes off . . . giving you a place to lay a piece of 2 x 6 . . . add the sandal bottom . . . slip in the formed piece for the top . . . pull down on the handle . . . voila . . . done.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-59766.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTcyMDQ4MTIiLCJza3UiOiI1OTc2NiIsImlzIjoiNjIuOTkifQ%3D%3D&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20737678297&campaignid=20737678297&utm_content=156191151498&adsetid=156191151498&product=59766&store=3113&gclid=CjwKCAjw15eqBhBZEiwAbDomEobTEjJnQG46i4KEr6GpH-siVkskQNeWXaUPPHRZdlGB2RDMXPCI8RoCYrcQAvD_BwE

May God bless,

Dwight

Well, Dwight, I decide to buy one of them, because I don't want to disturb the neighbors below me. I bought a 1 ton from Vevor, with a wheel that quickly positions the ram onto the work item.

one ton Vevor

 

Edited November 27, 2023 by deboardp

[Dwight]

Now of course you will have to show off the new sandals . . . 

I have some serious neuropathy in my feet and hands . . . and one of these days . . . when the weather gets a lot warmer . . . I'll be either making or investing in a pair I'm pretty sure.

Looking forward to seeing your work.

May God bless,

Dwight