Trouble threading a singer 29-4

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, Nametaken said:

I greatly appreciate the tips. KGG suggested a guitar string. I have a number of options now and frequent my local hardware store. Interesting too about the thread, I will be getting some. Thank you sir. Let’s hope I can get the stuffed knocked out with one of these wires. If not I already saw your response about the steps to disassemble the head. Greatly appreciated! 

A plain 20 gauge guitar string is too flexible to push past the paddle spring, especially if there is debris under it.

 

[AlZilla]

4 hours ago, kgg said:

29K machines built prior to 1900 had No serial numbers.

I don't that's correct. Prior to 1900, Singer machines had serial numbers but no letter prefix. Post 1900. everything started with a letter.

[Nametaken]

3 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

A plain 20 gauge guitar string is too flexible to push past the paddle spring, especially if there is debris under it.

 

Found this out the hard way. It’s ok though, I have a threading wire on its way! I truly appreciate your insight. May I asked how you gained so much specific knowledge of these machines? It’s inspiring. I have only found basic texts from original manuals and all the info on this site, which is nothing to turn up your nose at. Again, I’m looking for resources for my own knowledge so when I am able to use it I can be best prepared and if I do need to do things like disassemble it I may have a fighting chance. 

[Nametaken]

3 hours ago, AlZilla said:

I don't that's correct. Prior to 1900, Singer machines had serial numbers but no letter prefix. Post 1900. everything started with a letter.

True. I had looked at a few different sites and got wires crossed in my head disconnecting the letter from the numbers. It seems this one is in the 1916-1918 range based on its number.

[Nametaken]

8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

A hobby shop, or well stocked hardware store should have thin steel rods. Since patchers weren't expected to use thread larger than 3 cord, buy a rod no larger than .020 inches, if not a little thinner. I personally don't exceed #138 thread in my patchers. That is equal to .0163 inches diameter. I suspect that once you receive your proper threading wire, it will push out any thread stubs that were under the paddle spring. If not, try some so9lvent down the snout of the needle bar. If that doesn't clear out the crap, you'll have to remove the needle bar assembly.

I have a thread question for you. I read somewhere that, I thought it was singer, suggested a #69 bonded thread for general use on these. I’m not planning on doing much actual boot patching, more making things like tool covers, belts, the occasional bag maybe… would there be advantages to using a slightly thinner thread(#69) instead of the thicker thread (#138) for how these machines function under ideal circumstances? Again, I appreciate your time and input.

[Constabulary]

You have mixed up the machine Class and the serial number. The G on the serial number is not for Germany. But G for Germany is a suffix of the machine class  f.i. 111G156, 211G141. But this only applies for machines made in Germany (in Karlsruhe) after 1954. Machines made in Germany (in Wittenberge, Prussia) until 1945 had a C prefix on the serial number and a D (but not all IIRC) as suffix of the machine class like 45D91, 96D43 and so forth. After WWII until 1954 Singer did not produce sewing machines in Germany.

You can get 29K threading wires on Ebay, Amazon, Etsy, Ali Exprsss... for a few bucks

Personally I never had problems with 138 thread in any 29K model. They all use the same hooks since for ever. But the size of the needle hole in your needle plate matters. Iif it is too small you may have problems using larger needle and thread sizes. But be aware that the bobbins are fairly small and do not hold much of the 138 thread.

 

Edited November 26, 2023 by Constabulary

[kgg]

15 hours ago, AlZilla said:

I don't that's correct. Prior to 1900, Singer machines had serial numbers but no letter prefix.

Yes you are correct just no letter before the serial number. I misread the information.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

15 hours ago, Nametaken said:

I have a thread question for you. I read somewhere that, I thought it was singer, suggested a #69 bonded thread for general use on these. I’m not planning on doing much actual boot patching, more making things like tool covers, belts, the occasional bag maybe… would there be advantages to using a slightly thinner thread(#69) instead of the thicker thread (#138) for how these machines function under ideal circumstances? Again, I appreciate your time and input.

I use my small bobbin Singer patchers for sewing patches onto bikers' vest pockets, or varsity jacket sleeves, or for sewing loose threads on shoe and boot uppers, or for installing zippers in boots, or on jacket sleeves. I alternate between #69 and #92 bonded nylon thread. Period; full stop.

I have a long arm large bobbin Adler patcher that I sometimes use with #138 thread, if no other machine can sew that job. The Adler is a much heavier duty patcher all around. Still, I usually have either #69 or 92 thread in the bobbins.

[Nametaken]

On 11/26/2023 at 1:21 AM, Constabulary said:

You have mixed up the machine Class and the serial number. The G on the serial number is not for Germany. But G for Germany is a suffix of the machine class  f.i. 111G156, 211G141. But this only applies for machines made in Germany (in Karlsruhe) after 1954. Machines made in Germany (in Wittenberge, Prussia) until 1945 had a C prefix on the serial number and a D (but not all IIRC) as suffix of the machine class like 45D91, 96D43 and so forth. After WWII until 1954 Singer did not produce sewing machines in Germany.

You can get 29K threading wires on Ebay, Amazon, Etsy, Ali Exprsss... for a few bucks

Personally I never had problems with 138 thread in any 29K model. They all use the same hooks since for ever. But the size of the needle hole in your needle plate matters. Iif it is too small you may have problems using larger needle and thread sizes. But be aware that the bobbins are fairly small and do not hold much of the 138 thread.

 

Interesting. Ya, I was mixing up the class part of the serial number with a lack of background knowledge on my part. I appreciate the insight. I just received a proper threading wire, I’m very excited!

I will be starting off with a #69 thread and eventually trying the larger #138.
 

 

On 11/26/2023 at 11:19 AM, Wizcrafts said:

I use my small bobbin Singer patchers for sewing patches onto bikers' vest pockets, or varsity jacket sleeves, or for sewing loose threads on shoe and boot uppers, or for installing zippers in boots, or on jacket sleeves. I alternate between #69 and #92 bonded nylon thread. Period; full stop.

I have a long arm large bobbin Adler patcher that I sometimes use with #138 thread, if no other machine can sew that job. The Adler is a much heavier duty patcher all around. Still, I usually have either #69 or 92 thread in the bobbins.

Good to know. I’ll keep that in mind as I order new thread. Thank you.