Fiebings Pro Dye questions/tips

[DieselTech]

Guys & gals I recently got some fiebings pro dye & just curious on some usage tips & tricks.

I plan on airbrush applying to my leather. 

So is it best to dilute/thin the pro dye with denatured alcohol?

What's the best thinning rate for airbrush use 50/50?

Can pro dye be applied by sponge & how does it apply/act in that type of application?

Thanks any & all help will be appreciated.

[billybopp]

Dyes do not need to be diluted to be airbrushed.  They are quite thin already.  If you want finer control over the color, however, thinning can be helpful for building up color slowly.  I've often used sponges, daubers and wool as well.  All work fine.  Dip dying can be a good option as well - but I do prefer diluted when dipping.

- Bill

 

 

[DieselTech]

6 minutes ago, billybopp said:

Dyes do not need to be diluted to be airbrushed.  They are quite thin already.  If you want finer control over the color, however, thinning can be helpful for building up color slowly.  I've often used sponges, daubers and wool as well.  All work fine.  Dip dying can be a good option as well - but I do prefer diluted when dipping.

- Bill

 

 

Thanks billybopp. I appreciate the info. I'll give each a try at some point. Does it take a lot of dye to dip dye? Or is your dye quite diluted/thinned when dip dying? 

Thanks.

[billybopp]

2 hours ago, DieselTech said:

Thanks billybopp. I appreciate the info. I'll give each a try at some point. Does it take a lot of dye to dip dye? Or is your dye quite diluted/thinned when dip dying? 

Thanks.

It all depends on how you do it - but you need a good amount to run leather through.  I dilute about 50/50 with denatured alcohol. Afterward, however, most of it goes back into the a bottle for use another time.  Most things don't get fully submerged, and don't stay there for long.  Belt straps, for example, just get held under with a gloved hand and pulled through - so not TOO much dye needed for that.

- Bill

[DieselTech]

23 minutes ago, billybopp said:

It all depends on how you do it - but you need a good amount to run leather through.  I dilute about 50/50 with denatured alcohol. Afterward, however, most of it goes back into the a bottle for use another time.  Most things don't get fully submerged, and don't stay there for long.  Belt straps, for example, just get held under with a gloved hand and pulled through - so not TOO much dye needed for that.

- Bill

Thanks billybopp. I make a lot of belts so I'll try that technique & see how I like it on my belts. 

[Dwight]

43 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

Thanks billybopp. I make a lot of belts so I'll try that technique & see how I like it on my belts. 

Dip dying is best for belts . . . they get a lot of abuse . . . from the belt loops . . . the rubbing against chairs . . . your automobile seat (or truck, etc) . . . holsters . . . other stuff you put on the belt like a tape measure . . . canteen . . . 

Endless examples . . . tells us belts get abused.

Dip dying uses the most dye . . . because it penetrates the deepest.  Airbrush does not penetrate . . . it lays on the surface . . . and most of it can be scraped off with a soft fingernail.

Brush and wool applications depend on the guy doing the work.

But dip dying will give you one thing the rest can't do . . . and that is MUCH better uniformity.  It won't be perfect . . . but nothing beats it.

If you are seriously concerned about dye use . . . only dye the outside layer . . . leave the liner un-dyed . . . it'll cut about 15 tp 25 percent of your dye use . . . but you will have to color the edges . . 

Been doing belts for over 20 yrs now . . . wearing one that is 20+ yrs old . . . it's a bit darker than original . . . but the color has never scraped off or faded.

OH . . . and yes . . . I always cut my dye . . . 50 / 50 with Feibings thinner . . . and I always give my leather a light coat of neatsfoot oil 24 hrs before dying . . . and I don't hardly ever have any real problems with it all.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited January 7 by Dwight

[DieselTech]

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

Dip dying is best for belts . . . they get a lot of abuse . . . from the belt loops . . . the rubbing against chairs . . . your automobile seat (or truck, etc) . . . holsters . . . other stuff you put on the belt like a tape measure . . . canteen . . . 

Endless examples . . . tells us belts get abused.

Dip dying uses the most dye . . . because it penetrates the deepest.  Airbrush does not penetrate . . . it lays on the surface . . . and most of it can be scraped off with a soft fingernail.

Brush and wool applications depend on the guy doing the work.

But dip dying will give you one thing the rest can't do . . . and that is MUCH better uniformity.  It won't be perfect . . . but nothing beats it.

If you are seriously concerned about dye use . . . only dye the outside layer . . . leave the liner un-dyed . . . it'll cut about 15 tp 25 percent of your dye use . . . but you will have to color the edges . . 

Been doing belts for over 20 yrs now . . . wearing one that is 20+ yrs old . . . it's a bit darker than original . . . but the color has never scraped off or faded.

OH . . . and yes . . . I always cut my dye . . . 50 / 50 with Feibings thinner . . . and I always give my leather a light coat of neatsfoot oil 24 hrs before dying . . . and I don't hardly ever have any real problems with it all.

May God bless,

Dwight

Do you think applying neatsfoot oil the day before helps with a more uniform dye result? That's kinda my taking on it, but maybe I'm wrong. 

Thanks.

[Dwight]

3 hours ago, DieselTech said:

Do you think applying neatsfoot oil the day before helps with a more uniform dye result? That's kinda my taking on it, but maybe I'm wrong. 

Thanks.

Thats it

[PAMuzzle]

On 1/6/2024 at 11:14 PM, Dwight said:

Dip dying is best for belts . . . they get a lot of abuse . . . from the belt loops . . . the rubbing against chairs . . . your automobile seat (or truck, etc) . . . holsters . . . other stuff you put on the belt like a tape measure . . . canteen . . . 

Endless examples . . . tells us belts get abused.

Dip dying uses the most dye . . . because it penetrates the deepest.  Airbrush does not penetrate . . . it lays on the surface . . . and most of it can be scraped off with a soft fingernail.

Brush and wool applications depend on the guy doing the work.

But dip dying will give you one thing the rest can't do . . . and that is MUCH better uniformity.  It won't be perfect . . . but nothing beats it.

If you are seriously concerned about dye use . . . only dye the outside layer . . . leave the liner un-dyed . . . it'll cut about 15 tp 25 percent of your dye use . . . but you will have to color the edges . . 

Been doing belts for over 20 yrs now . . . wearing one that is 20+ yrs old . . . it's a bit darker than original . . . but the color has never scraped off or faded.

OH . . . and yes . . . I always cut my dye . . . 50 / 50 with Feibings thinner . . . and I always give my leather a light coat of neatsfoot oil 24 hrs before dying . . . and I don't hardly ever have any real problems with it all.

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight, 

Do you have any problems with dye rub off?  What finish on the backside?  Do you ever leave it rough or line the back?

Do you special mix Pro dyes for different colors?

Edited February 8 by PAMuzzle

[Mablung]

8 minutes ago, PAMuzzle said:

Dwight, 

Do you have any problems with dye rub off?  What finish on the backside?  Do you ever leave it rough or line the back?

Do you special mix Pro dyes for different colors?

I'm not Dwight, but I recently tried dip-dyeing a knife belt pouch I made for my dad.  I got a lot less rub-off when buffing the surface than I do when applying with a dauber (which is what I usually do).  I'm pretty confident that I'll not get any after I seal it.

[Dwight]

9 hours ago, PAMuzzle said:

Dwight, 

Do you have any problems with dye rub off?  What finish on the backside?  Do you ever leave it rough or line the back?

Do you special mix Pro dyes for different colors?

Take em one at a time . . . yes . . .  everyone will have dye rub off.  It is the dried physical pieces of the dye that did not penetrate.  Rubbing with an old wash cloth or tee shirt or flannel shirt is how I get rid of it.  USMC black is one I will not use . . . it is no more "black" than the pro dye . . . but it will rub off till the cows come home from the back pasture.

I use resolene on the backside . . . sometimes I will use a glass slicker with a tad of water . . . then resolene . . . but I try not to buy leather that forces me to do that.  I generally line a western gun belt . . . all of my CCW belts . . . all of my western holsters . . . and by lining . . .I make the product out of two pieces of the same hide . . . I don't use other leathers and I don't use two different thicknesses . . . but it is just MY habit .

No . . . I do not special mix.  Have never found a "need" to do it.  The shades I offer . . . folks find one they like . . . all are Feibings Pro Oil dyes . . . mixed 50/50 with Feibings thinner.

Hope this helps . . . holler if I can do more.

May God bless,

Dwight