Simple Chukka

[rleather]

4 hours ago, Mablung said:

Oh, it really is easy. I didn’t make the pattern from scratch, but adapting one was simple. So you’re the one who swiped the cheap copies I found! Man, I had internet issues and missed getting one. Lol. Anywho, these things are not hard to make at all. Go for it! Glad I motivated you to try. 

Thank you! They are very comfortable. The next iteration will be even better. 

Can't wait to see the next pair! 

 

[Mablung]

On 1/12/2024 at 6:02 PM, rleather said:

Can't wait to see the next pair! 

 

Hoping to get them done today and posted. How to do the dart @Aven described finally clicked in my head, so I tried it last night. I WAY overdid the dart, so I need to redo one upper, but I know now I got the idea basically right. I just need to tinker with the height and width of the dart to get it right. The leather I’m using is 5.5 oz., so I need to make it less dramatic than I thought I would. 

[Mablung]

Didn’t get everything done, but I at least got the dart right and did the butt joint to make the seam at the back. If I can ever get the 3/16” eyelets to set properly, I’ll be in business. For some reason, they keep coming out crooked and partially smashed. I think my setting anvil may be the wrong size, although the setter itself looks right. 

[Aven]

19 hours ago, Mablung said:

Hoping to get them done today and posted. How to do the dart @Aven described finally clicked in my head, so I tried it last night. I WAY overdid the dart, so I need to redo one upper, but I know now I got the idea basically right. I just need to tinker with the height and width of the dart to get it right. The leather I’m using is 5.5 oz., so I need to make it less dramatic than I thought I would. 

Shoes are so deceptive, 1/4" change is huge.  Darts like the one you have in your picture work well enough to bring in the top line or to tuck the leather up around the heel. Contrasting thread color will make them a cool accent.

If you find that they aren't quite what you need, I would suggest you go back to the Velle pattern and look at the curved heel. Use that pattern  Try it out on some scrap. No need to cut the whole side out, just the curve.  Cut it out on pieces that are at least two inches wide and sew it up. Put that up against your heel and see how it fits.  If the middle bit poofs away from your heel, make the curve a little bit flatter.  If the top/ bottom gap, make the curve a tiny bit tighter.  Putz around with scrap until you get the fit that works for your feet.  Don't forget to keep a copy of the curve so you can use it for all the other shoes you are going to make. (Insert big cheesy grin)  .  Thin box cardboard works okay.

Check out Kamsnaps. They have a grommet setters and the dies that might sort things out for you.  Its a tad bit spendy, but worth it in the long run if all the eyelets you set are set perfectly.   And remember its important that there is

 

[Mablung]

2 hours ago, Aven said:

Shoes are so deceptive, 1/4" change is huge.  Darts like the one you have in your picture work well enough to bring in the top line or to tuck the leather up around the heel. Contrasting thread color will make them a cool accent.

If you find that they aren't quite what you need, I would suggest you go back to the Velle pattern and look at the curved heel. Use that pattern  Try it out on some scrap. No need to cut the whole side out, just the curve.  Cut it out on pieces that are at least two inches wide and sew it up. Put that up against your heel and see how it fits.  If the middle bit poofs away from your heel, make the curve a little bit flatter.  If the top/ bottom gap, make the curve a tiny bit tighter.  Putz around with scrap until you get the fit that works for your feet.  Don't forget to keep a copy of the curve so you can use it for all the other shoes you are going to make. (Insert big cheesy grin)  .  Thin box cardboard works okay.

Check out Kamsnaps. They have a grommet setters and the dies that might sort things out for you.  Its a tad bit spendy, but worth it in the long run if all the eyelets you set are set perfectly.   And remember its important that there is

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I modified this heel pattern to curve a little bit more, at least at the top. I’m a believer in changing this incrementally, so I’ll probably go ahead and try just with the dart, then make another pair. I could use some low-top shoes as well, so I might as well continue to fiddle. Plus, I have a whole side of SB Foote to work with, so I can make a large number of brown shoes. Good thought on the Kamsnap setter. I’ll take a look. The weird thing is, my 1/4” eyelets set just fine, no problems. I’m going to look at the anvil again and at Tandy to see if part of my setup is defective—I can feel a little burr around the outside of the setting eye in the middle, so I may just need to polish it with a small, fine file. 

[chuck123wapati]

32 minutes ago, Mablung said:

Thanks for the suggestions. I modified this heel pattern to curve a little bit more, at least at the top. I’m a believer in changing this incrementally, so I’ll probably go ahead and try just with the dart, then make another pair. I could use some low-top shoes as well, so I might as well continue to fiddle. Plus, I have a whole side of SB Foote to work with, so I can make a large number of brown shoes. Good thought on the Kamsnap setter. I’ll take a look. The weird thing is, my 1/4” eyelets set just fine, no problems. I’m going to look at the anvil again and at Tandy to see if part of my setup is defective—I can feel a little burr around the outside of the setting eye in the middle, so I may just need to polish it with a small, fine file. 

i wanna see some of this. I just spent 30 bucks in leather and six hours of life to make a pair of three dollar mocs lol.

[Mablung]

52 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

i wanna see some of this. I just spent 30 bucks in leather and six hours of life to make a pair of three dollar mocs lol.

I’ll post some pictures some time soon, although “soon” might mean the end of the week. Hopefully earlier than that. 

[Mablung]

Couple other shots of one in progress. Haven’t stitched the midsole fully or the eyelet reinforcement pieces. The dart and mild curve in the top of the heel piece appear to be doing their job. We’ll know for sure once I finish stitching the midsole and glue on the rubber soles. 
 

I realized, in stitching the other one’s midsole the other night, that I erred by failing to adjust the width of the rear of the midsole heel for the material I removed from the upper heel piece. So, it’s a bit puckered at the back. In my test fit, though, it didn’t seem to make a difference and will become even less of an issue after I hammer it down a bit, hammer the stitches, and glue on the rubber. 

[Mablung]

2 hours ago, Mablung said:

Couple other shots of one in progress. Haven’t stitched the midsole fully or the eyelet reinforcement pieces. The dart and mild curve in the top of the heel piece appear to be doing their job. We’ll know for sure once I finish stitching the midsole and glue on the rubber soles. 
 

I realized, in stitching the other one’s midsole the other night, that I erred by failing to adjust the width of the rear of the midsole heel for the material I removed from the upper heel piece. So, it’s a bit puckered at the back. In my test fit, though, it didn’t seem to make a difference and will become even less of an issue after I hammer it down a bit, hammer the stitches, and glue on the rubber. 

Never actually posted the pictures. 

[Mablung]

These things have taken longer to complete than I anticipated.  Got the eyelets set late last night, as well as stitching the midsole to the second upper.  Now just need to cut and glue the rubber outsoles, stitch the eyelet reinforcement pieces on the second shoe, and run the laces.  I think these will end up being just a little short of toe room, so I'll add that into the midsole pattern modification.  I'll wear these for a bit to see if they stretch sufficiently and to figure out what other modifications I need to make, then go from there.  Looking forward to finally having these done.

[Aven]

LOL, doesn't it always take longer than we expect?  

Its looking good so far. As for them being short, if they are just "tight", pretend you are in Basic.  Get them wet and walk them dry.  Just be mindful of your toes.  They can stretch the leather out, but if your nails are long they can the process can mess with your toes. 

You are getting there!

[Mablung]

5 minutes ago, Aven said:

LOL, doesn't it always take longer than we expect?  

Its looking good so far. As for them being short, if they are just "tight", pretend you are in Basic.  Get them wet and walk them dry.  Just be mindful of your toes.  They can stretch the leather out, but if your nails are long they can the process can mess with your toes. 

You are getting there!

Thanks!  And yeah, I was thinking of doing the wet-walk-dry treatment to them.  I think part of the reason the one felt tight is because I put a veg tan toe counter in the front, but I may need to add a little more "toe puff" to future iterations of the vamp and toe counter.  We'll see how they come out after I move around in them a bit.  I keep my toenails pretty short, so they shouldn't cause an issue.  

[Aven]

Looking forward to the pictures of them on your feet.

[Mablung]

Hoping to get the soles glued tonight before I head out of town and can wear them in a bit.  I'll get some pics, too.

[Mablung]

Well, a lot of things are right about these things, but the soles are a little too small (really not sure how I managed that, when I traced right from the completed shoe) and the veg tan toe counter in each is (a) too hard and (b) lacks sufficient toe volume. Wetting won’t do it, unfortunately. The leather is also thicker and firmer in temper than the previous stuff I used, so I need to adjust for that. Will need to adjust the pattern and then rebuild. 

Here’s a pic of one completed shoe. I think I’m going to either make a taller boot or lower the upper height just a bit as well; this height tended to cut into my ankle just a bit.