handbag reinforcement options

[Colinml]

I'm working on a handbag design (see photo of rough mock up).  The bottom section will be fairly substantial, but the top half will be chrome tan, about 1.5mm.  I would like to reinforce the sides so the bag doesn't collapse when you set it down.  I think this reinforcement will need to be pretty substantial, since there will be rolled leather handles.  I've never done any of this before, so I'm not sure where to begin experimenting, and I have several questions.  

1.  This is a turned out construction.  If I glue or fuse something to the inside of the bag, will this conflict with my construction approach?

2. If heavy reinforcement and turned out construction are incompatible, would it work to add the reinforcement to the drop in (shantung silk) liner instead? This liner will be added after the turnout.

3. What material makes sense?  Again, never used any of this stuff.  Decovil light?  Salpa/leather board? Microfibra?  Corraza? I will experiment first, of course, but, financially, it would be nice to narrow down the choices since, as the saying goes, I'm not made of money.

[fredk]

I've used compressed cardboard to reinforce chrome tan leather bags. I've sandwiched it between 2 layers of leather

[Colinml]

At this point, I'm considering adding Decovil light to the top, chrome tan portions before sewing the bag together, keeping it out of the seam allowance.  Then, something inside, maybe sandwiched between the bag and the drop in liner, that would form a U shape, going from the handle attachments down to floor of bag and bag up the other side.  Then I would sew the handles through this, and also add rivets or feet to the bottom, also through this.  The idea would be to spread the point load on the handles where they attach to the bag.  The main question left for me is how to attach this U shaped material (whatever it is) in more places than just the rivets and the handle attachment points without having more sticking show on the outside of the bag.  Maybe I just contact cement it?  Maybe I could catch the top when I sew in the drop in liner?  The bottom could loop under a floor of some sort.

[Cattleman]

Could one use some veg tan panels sewn between the inner and outer layers of chrome tan to add rigidity???

[Fraulein]

Springfield Leather Company sells a bag stiffener called bontex. I've used it on quite a few bags. Just cut about 1/4"-1/2" smaller than your bag pieces so you have room to sew and turn out, then contact cement to your chrome. It looks kinda ugly on the inside, but as long as your lining it it doesn't matter. It won't be a a super "heavy" reinforcement but the women I make bags for don't want them to be too heavy. But this will keep your sides standing up.

[toxo]

is there any special reason for using chrome tan? it'll stand by itself quite happily if you used slightly thicker veg tan.

[SUP]

I don't do silk lining because it looks nice but is not very practical. We women tend to dump any and everything inside our bags. Silk gets dirty pretty fast and is difficult to clean. 

 I made a bag recently with soft leather on the outside and a lovely ostrich embossed on the inside. It give support and looks unusual. Cuts down the weight too, which is always an important consideration. 

 

Edited January 26 by SUP

[Fraulein]

12 hours ago, toxo said:

is there any special reason for using chrome tan? it'll stand by itself quite happily if you used slightly thicker veg tan.

I use chrome on bags for the color selections. A lot more selection and richer colors than I can find in veg. Also if your turning it out you have to do a TON of skiving on those edges where you sew if your using a heavier veg or they'll be to bulky to turn. Just my two cents.

11 hours ago, SUP said:

11 hours ago, SUP said:

I don't do silk lining because it looks nice but is not very practical. We women tend to dump any and everything inside our bags. Silk gets dirty pretty fast and is difficult to clean. 

 I made a bag recently with soft leather on the outside and a lovely ostrich embossed on the inside. It give support and looks unusual. Cuts down the weight too, which is always an important consideration. 

 

 

Like the embossed ostrich idea for the lining! I always just do a heavier duty cotton or polyester fabric for linings.

[SUP]

2 minutes ago, Fraulein said:

Like the embossed ostrich idea for the lining! I always just do a heavier duty cotton or polyester fabric for linings.

Yes. I like to use embossed leather because it is a little stiff anyway and it adds a touch of class as well! 

I too use chrome-tanned leather for the colors and variety available. Love working with veg-tanned leather but there is just so much you can do with it. Chrome tanned adds variety.

[Colinml]

13 hours ago, Fraulein said:

Springfield Leather Company sells a bag stiffener called bontex. I've used it on quite a few bags. Just cut about 1/4"-1/2" smaller than your bag pieces so you have room to sew and turn out, then contact cement to your chrome. It looks kinda ugly on the inside, but as long as your lining it it doesn't matter. It won't be a a super "heavy" reinforcement but the women I make bags for don't want them to be too heavy. But this will keep your sides standing up.

Thanks.  I went ahead and ordered a few different types or reinforcement to experiment.  Didn't see bontex, but I'll look into it.

[Colinml]

12 hours ago, SUP said:

I don't do silk lining because it looks nice but is not very practical. We women tend to dump any and everything inside our bags. Silk gets dirty pretty fast and is difficult to clean. 

 I made a bag recently with soft leather on the outside and a lovely ostrich embossed on the inside. It give support and looks unusual. Cuts down the weight too, which is always an important consideration. 

 

Yes, good point.  I like your ostrich idea.  Most of the common things used for lining seem to have the same cleaning problem...suede, etc.  I just happened to have some shantung, and it's doubtful this first bag will even turn out, so no worries about customer satisfaction.

[Fraulein]

3 minutes ago, Colinml said:

Thanks.  I went ahead and ordered a few different types or reinforcement to experiment.  Didn't see bontex, but I'll look into it.

Good luck on you bag! Look forward to seeing finished pics

[Colinml]

Just now, Fraulein said:

Good luck on you bag! Look forward to seeing finished pics

Thank you.  I've sort of back burnered this because I'm not quite to designing/patterning my own just yet.  I've decided o make a few more purchased pattern projects to get some concepts into my brain, and then return to the project of creating my own pattern.