Finishing Factory-Like Edges

[xlr8tn]

I've read all of the topics on edges and still not sure what products to use to get factory-like edges. Thus far, I have used Gum Traganth, Fiebings Edge Kote, plastic edge slicker, elmers glue, spit, denim, to get my edges nice. When I look at any product with a "Made in China" tag, the edges are somewhat plasticky/rubbery and do not deteroriate much over time. I am making watch bands and over time, the edges with Edge Kote start to crumble with repeated bending and placement thru the buckle. Is there another product that I could try that I just don't know about that will give me more of the factory edge I am looking for? I have a can of Plasti-Dip, the stuff you can get at Lowes and basically coat your tools for extra grip. Has anyone attempted to try this on leather?

Thanks,

Brent

[Art]

Hi Brent,

I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change.

Art

I've read all of the topics on edges and still not sure what products to use to get factory-like edges. Thus far, I have used Gum Traganth, Fiebings Edge Kote, plastic edge slicker, elmers glue, spit, denim, to get my edges nice. When I look at any product with a "Made in China" tag, the edges are somewhat plasticky/rubbery and do not deteroriate much over time. I am making watch bands and over time, the edges with Edge Kote start to crumble with repeated bending and placement thru the buckle. Is there another product that I could try that I just don't know about that will give me more of the factory edge I am looking for? I have a can of Plasti-Dip, the stuff you can get at Lowes and basically coat your tools for extra grip. Has anyone attempted to try this on leather?

Thanks,

Brent

[outcast]

Yes, Plastic Dip works well, and gives it a uniform "factory" look.

Edited February 15, 2008 by outcast

[indypbear]

Brent,

I get a really good edgewith these steps:

1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even

2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes

3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker

4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)

5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"

6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.

My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.

Indy

[xlr8tn]

thank you all for your comments.

[xlr8tn]

Just an update,

I purchased a few different acrylic paints this weekend from Michaels. I did a quick test and found that an acrylic with "deep body" tended to work fine and not leave too high a shine. Now, what's the trick in getting this stuff on neater? It didn't come in a fancy squirter tube and was your basic paint tube. I ended up using folded paper towel edge to apply, but the application did not leave the entire edge very smooth. Is there an easier way to get this on? Also, should I try and use my plastic slicker to maybe smooth it out once dry? As far as the overall appearance, I believe this matches closely what I found on factory watch straps. I looks strong enough to last for a little while. What I found with the Edge Kote is that over time it started to crumble.

-brent

[Go2Tex]

Yeah, you want to slick it first with the aforementioned methods, then paint or coat the edge.

[esantoro]

Brent,

I get a really good edgewith these steps:

1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even

2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes

3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker

4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)

5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"

6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.

My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.

Indy

Indy,

This sounds like a great method. I'll have to try it. Thanks.

ed

[esantoro]

Brent,I get a really good edgewith these steps:1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.Indy

I'm headed to the hardware store. I've got some wet/dry sand paper for sharpening my tools. But what range of sand paper would be good for sanding edges. I've got a good idea, but thought I'd get people's actual experience.ed

Brent,I get a really good edgewith these steps:1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.Indy

For a wax-based finish would beeswax be enough?ed

[esantoro]

Hi Brent,

I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change.

Art

Hi Art,

If I want to get the best color match for my edges, would you suggest that I go to an art store and buy the heaviest, most rubbery and flexible acrylic paint in the color of my choice, or should I mix that paint with something else? The one nice thing about edge kote is that it dries quickly.

thanks,

Ed