Finishing Factory-Like Edges

[xlr8tn]

I've read all of the topics on edges and still not sure what products to use to get factory-like edges. Thus far, I have used Gum Traganth, Fiebings Edge Kote, plastic edge slicker, elmers glue, spit, denim, to get my edges nice. When I look at any product with a "Made in China" tag, the edges are somewhat plasticky/rubbery and do not deteroriate much over time. I am making watch bands and over time, the edges with Edge Kote start to crumble with repeated bending and placement thru the buckle. Is there another product that I could try that I just don't know about that will give me more of the factory edge I am looking for? I have a can of Plasti-Dip, the stuff you can get at Lowes and basically coat your tools for extra grip. Has anyone attempted to try this on leather?

Thanks,

Brent

[Art]

Hi Brent,

I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change.

Art

I've read all of the topics on edges and still not sure what products to use to get factory-like edges. Thus far, I have used Gum Traganth, Fiebings Edge Kote, plastic edge slicker, elmers glue, spit, denim, to get my edges nice. When I look at any product with a "Made in China" tag, the edges are somewhat plasticky/rubbery and do not deteroriate much over time. I am making watch bands and over time, the edges with Edge Kote start to crumble with repeated bending and placement thru the buckle. Is there another product that I could try that I just don't know about that will give me more of the factory edge I am looking for? I have a can of Plasti-Dip, the stuff you can get at Lowes and basically coat your tools for extra grip. Has anyone attempted to try this on leather?

Thanks,

Brent

[outcast]

Yes, Plastic Dip works well, and gives it a uniform "factory" look.

Edited February 15, 2008 by outcast

[indypbear]

Brent,

I get a really good edgewith these steps:

1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even

2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes

3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker

4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)

5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"

6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.

My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.

Indy

[xlr8tn]

thank you all for your comments.

[xlr8tn]

Just an update,

I purchased a few different acrylic paints this weekend from Michaels. I did a quick test and found that an acrylic with "deep body" tended to work fine and not leave too high a shine. Now, what's the trick in getting this stuff on neater? It didn't come in a fancy squirter tube and was your basic paint tube. I ended up using folded paper towel edge to apply, but the application did not leave the entire edge very smooth. Is there an easier way to get this on? Also, should I try and use my plastic slicker to maybe smooth it out once dry? As far as the overall appearance, I believe this matches closely what I found on factory watch straps. I looks strong enough to last for a little while. What I found with the Edge Kote is that over time it started to crumble.

-brent

[Go2Tex]

Yeah, you want to slick it first with the aforementioned methods, then paint or coat the edge.

[esantoro]

Brent,

I get a really good edgewith these steps:

1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even

2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes

3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker

4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)

5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"

6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.

My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.

Indy

Indy,

This sounds like a great method. I'll have to try it. Thanks.

ed

[esantoro]

Brent,I get a really good edgewith these steps:1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.Indy

I'm headed to the hardware store. I've got some wet/dry sand paper for sharpening my tools. But what range of sand paper would be good for sanding edges. I've got a good idea, but thought I'd get people's actual experience.ed

Brent,I get a really good edgewith these steps:1) edge bevel with correct size for thickness of leather or sand edge if approximating two or more layers to make them even2) apply gum tragacnth liberally and let sit for apporx. 10 minutes3) slick with cocco bolo(hardwood) or antler slicker4) rub with denim or canvas to smooth out (it needs to get warm to bond fibers)5) apply edge color or leave natural and "let it dry well"6) either spray or daub on finish of choice. For items that flex a lot I use a wax based fiiish that can be buffed.My $0.02 worth. It works for me. Hope this helps.Indy

For a wax-based finish would beeswax be enough?ed

[esantoro]

Hi Brent,

I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change.

Art

Hi Art,

If I want to get the best color match for my edges, would you suggest that I go to an art store and buy the heaviest, most rubbery and flexible acrylic paint in the color of my choice, or should I mix that paint with something else? The one nice thing about edge kote is that it dries quickly.

thanks,

Ed

[TracyMoss]

Some times I just use tan-kote on the edges and burnish with canvas or a slicker. It works really well on most smaller items and is quick and easy. no special step, just coat the edge and slick, then coat the rest using the same piece of scrap woolskin. Then you dont have to worry about any discoloration that gum causes sometimes.

[esantoro]

I've been experimenting with using edge coat on edges with polyester felt. Not sure is this is the stuff to use. Picked it up at a fabric store. It seems that others are talking about wool felt to make burnishing wheels. Is wool felt also to be used for painting edges with edge kote? This polyester felt seems too stringy and hairy and causes some edge kote to go astray.

By the way, does anyone know where to get paper gum?

Ed

[indypbear]

I'm headed to the hardware store. I've got some wet/dry sand paper for sharpening my tools. But what range of sand paper would be good for sanding edges. I've got a good idea, but thought I'd get people's actual experience.edFor a wax-based finish would beeswax be enough?ed

Brent,

Sand paper would be a medium grit to even the edge and rough it some for burnishing/slicking. The wax I use is Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax. Beeswax I use for my hand sewing and awl work. Take some pieces of scrap and try what works best for your style of leatherwork. After all, it's what makes you and your customer/recipient happy! If you're using a round dauber, light it with a match and burn some off until you get a small crusty ball. Wrap that ball(when cool) in a paper towel folded and remove the black crustiness. It will make a dauber that you can control the edge dye better. More $0.02!!

Happy Toolin',

John aka Indy

[howardb]

Just edged some straps. I had a round wood burnisher chucked into a drill. I wetted the edge with the same water that I case with and WOW smooth edges. I will try to post a pic later, but the edges were gorgeous. I wetted and boned the back, which was REEEEALLLY rough, and it made a big difference.

I had already stained with fiebings dye (spirit type I think as it is really old), so that may have been part of the equation. Hope it helps.

Brent

[esantoro]

Just an update,

I purchased a few different acrylic paints this weekend from Michaels. I did a quick test and found that an acrylic with "deep body" tended to work fine and not leave too high a shine. Now, what's the trick in getting this stuff on neater? It didn't come in a fancy squirter tube and was your basic paint tube. I ended up using folded paper towel edge to apply, but the application did not leave the entire edge very smooth. Is there an easier way to get this on? Also, should I try and use my plastic slicker to maybe smooth it out once dry? As far as the overall appearance, I believe this matches closely what I found on factory watch straps. I looks strong enough to last for a little while. What I found with the Edge Kote is that over time it started to crumble.

-brent

Hi Brent,

How is it going with the edges? I'm thinking of heading out to Michaels tomorrow to some acrylics. Would you say heavy body is the same as deep body? I'm thinking of getting these:

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=fa0297

I'm going to try to use polyester felt folded over and about the width of the edge I'm dying to apply the acrylic paint. Did you have to thin the paint at all?

Thanks,

Ed

[esantoro]

Hi Brent,

I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change.

Art

Hi Art,

When I was in the Hermes store the other day talking to the leather craftsman and having him critique my bag, I noticed a jar of Meltonian shoe cream on his work table. Do you think this would work well for edges?

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/s...it_1991_4719408

Thanks,

Ed

[esantoro]

Hi Brent,

I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change.

Art

Just got back from Michael's. Picked up some acrylic paints in squeeze tubes. I think they are all heavy body, but only the Liquitex reads such on the tube. The Grumbacher and Windsor & Newton were a bit cheaper than the Liquitex. Black was easy to find (Mars Black and Ivory Black) but for brown I had to go with a Burnt Umber. I'll post pics of my R&D.

Ed

[Art]

Hi Ed,

I think the Mel would work better as an overcoat to a dyed edge.

Art

Hi Art,

When I was in the Hermes store the other day talking to the leather craftsman and having him critique my bag, I noticed a jar of Meltonian shoe cream on his work table. Do you think this would work well for edges?

http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/s...it_1991_4719408

Thanks,

Ed

[bevo]

Hi Brent,

How is it going with the edges? I'm thinking of heading out to Michaels tomorrow to some acrylics. Would you say heavy body is the same as deep body? I'm thinking of getting these:

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=fa0297

I'm going to try to use polyester felt folded over and about the width of the edge I'm dying to apply the acrylic paint. Did you have to thin the paint at all?

Thanks,

Ed

Try using a make-up cotton tip. It is pointed on one end and flat on the other. It applies acrylic paint and dyes evenly and smoothly to edges. Works for me and I hope it works for you

[tazzmann]

Just thought I would throw my $.02 in this conversation...

The way I do my edges is: I wet the leather down prior to dying with a mixture of water (90%) and Lexol (10%). While the leather is still DAMP, I apply the dye. While the dye is still DAMP, I then take a circle edge slicker and run it over all the edges, I can get a glass smooth finish and not have to try and dye the edges AFTER slicking. The Lexol makes the oil dye I use seep into the leather more slowly, which I found gives a better, more even penetration and more work time for doing the edges. I then finish with Super / Satin Sheen or Leather Balm with Atom wax.