Dyeing after Tokonole - has anyone tried it?

[SUP]

I have a split with a clear brand mark that I want to use to make a bag. The split  is not hairy at all  and is, in fact, pretty smooth but it is a bit rough, especially on the side that I want on the outside of the bag. The reverse side is smooth enough not to need any smoothening but the brand mark is not as clear. I burnished a couple of pieces of scrap with Tokonole and it burnishes well on both sides and looks great. 

I tried dyeing those pieces and they take the dye well too. I burnished after the dye and it does not come off either. I am a little hesitant to do that on the larger pieces though.  Has anyone dyed their leather after Tokonole and what is your experience? It would help to know before I go ahead.

Edited March 5, 2024 by SUP

[Hags]

I don't think it will work. I have always dyed before tokanole.

[terrymac]

Tokonole takes dye, no problems. Do it on belt edges all the time

[SUP]

My issue is the smoothening of the leather surface. Will it get as smooth with Tokonole  after dyeing? @terrymac do you know? 

@Hags I thought so too. I allowed it to dry overnight and will apply some sheen or Resolene  today. I'll post what happens here. looks like there is a lot of more experimentation to do before I work on the actual bag.

[TomE]

This author states "Tokonole's first ingredient is white glue." https://www.fineleatherworking.com/blog/gum-tragacanth-leather/  I haven't purchased Tokonole so I don't know where he got this information.  There have been numerous discussions here about using glue-dye mixtures to finish edges as an all-in-one treatment.  My tendency would be to apply the dye, wait a few minutes for it to soak in and even out, then apply the bunishing compound and smooth the surface with a glass slicker.  I would be concerned that burnishing will obscure the brand.  

[SUP]

@TomE My concern is that after dyeing, I need to buff and that will make the leather rough. Without buffing, the dye always spreads. I am now thinking of not dyeing at all and keeping the natural leather color. Not even neatsfoot oil because that absorbs like crazy since it is a split - like it does on the fleshy side of full grain leather. I am thinking of just burnishing it on both sides, taking care in the brand area and then deciding which side will be on the outside based on the results.

The brand mark is burnt very deep on one side and if I can, I plan to put that on the outside. Let's see. 

I tried with dye before and after Tokonole - not good results. I tried Antiquing before Tokonole, after Tokonole, with of course a resist and not good either.

Luckily, just Tokonole gives a nice enough finish. Let's see.

[TomE]

I am probably the only one who finds this interesting, but look at how he applies dye.  I thought his method produced a pretty shading.  I sometimes dye the back of bridle leather after splitting off the pasted/colored back.  This looks like a handy way to avoid saturation/bleed through to the grain without the expense and maintenance of a spray gun.

 

[SUP]

@TomE that is a very interesting technique. It might work for me. Will try it out on some scraps as soon as I find a spray bottle. Thank you.