Burnisher Grinder conversion

[BrainTannedKiwi]

Hey guys I recently bought a bench grinder that I would like to use to burnish belts, I need to burnish the flesh side and also the edges too, sanding shouldnt be as much of a use. Whats the best way to do this? I was thinking having one side wooden burnisher with grooves and the other side a sleeve of canvas for the flesh side, is that the best way to do it?

Thanks heaps!

[James1]

I wonder if a bench grinder might be too high of RPM’s for burnishing. It might tend to burn the edges. 

[dikman]

It works ok for me, I turned a burnisher on the lathe and forced it onto the grinder shaft to cut the threads so it screws on. I use the same grinder motor for buffing and wire wheels. You could also fit a drum sander to one side to sand the leather. I haven't bothered doing that as I have a couple of belt grinders, but be aware sanding leather with a machine makes a LOT of mess!! I'm not sure how effective a canvas sleeve would be as I think it might just act as a burnisher too?

[BrainTannedKiwi]

On 5/9/2024 at 12:42 AM, James1 said:

I wonder if a bench grinder might be too high of RPM’s for burnishing. It might tend to burn the edges. 

I think it should be ok as long as i use plenty of fluids 

On 5/9/2024 at 11:20 AM, dikman said:

It works ok for me, I turned a burnisher on the lathe and forced it onto the grinder shaft to cut the threads so it screws on. I use the same grinder motor for buffing and wire wheels. You could also fit a drum sander to one side to sand the leather. I haven't bothered doing that as I have a couple of belt grinders, but be aware sanding leather with a machine makes a LOT of mess!! I'm not sure how effective a canvas sleeve would be as I think it might just act as a burnisher too?

yea thats what ill be doing, i was thinking maybe just a flat round bar of wood would work for burnishing the flesh side what do you think? and yes sanding makes a lot of mess thats why i try to avoid it also probably not very healthy

[Mablung]

1 hour ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

I think it should be ok as long as i use plenty of fluids 

yea thats what ill be doing, i was thinking maybe just a flat round bar of wood would work for burnishing the flesh side what do you think? and yes sanding makes a lot of mess thats why i try to avoid it also probably not very healthy

By “flat round bar of wood,” I assume you mean one that is smooth, without additional grooves cut in its perimeter?

[BrainTannedKiwi]

59 minutes ago, Mablung said:

By “flat round bar of wood,” I assume you mean one that is smooth, without additional grooves cut in its perimeter?

haha yes. a log for simpler terms

[TomE]

9 hours ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

I think it should be ok as long as i use plenty of fluids 

Saddle soap is a good lubricant.  I switched to Fiebings paste saddle soap applied to the edge with a damp piece of canvas.  This works better for me than swiping a wet sponge on a bar of saddle soap, which delivers more water and less glycerin lubricant to the edge.  I am using a Cobra burnisher set at about 2000 (?) rpm.

[BrainTannedKiwi]

45 minutes ago, TomE said:

Saddle soap is a good lubricant.  I switched to Fiebings paste saddle soap applied to the edge with a damp piece of canvas.  This works better for me than swiping a wet sponge on a bar of saddle soap, which delivers more water and less glycerin lubricant to the edge.  I am using a Cobra burnisher set at about 2000 (?) rpm.

so is the canvas attached to the burnisher or is that by hand? Lots of people are pointing towards saddle soap, seems like the go there are a few types though haha, paste bar spray, allsorts. Im just trying to think of the best way to have good  consistent edges and flesh side using a motor burnisher.

[Mablung]

9 hours ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

haha yes. a log for simpler terms

Lol, I gotcha.  I was confused by the "flat round" series of adjectives and thought, "I think I know what he means, but I'll clarify anyway to be sure..."

[TomE]

2 hours ago, BrainTannedKiwi said:

so is the canvas attached to the burnisher or is that by hand? Lots of people are pointing towards saddle soap, seems like the go there are a few types though haha, paste bar spray, allsorts. Im just trying to think of the best way to have good  consistent edges and flesh side using a motor burnisher.

It is a small square of canvas that I use to apply saddle soap to the edge before power burnishing with the wooden Cobra burnisher.  I've tried making a canvas sleeve to fit over the Cobra burnisher (either side) but the sleeves wear out quickly when burnishing 9-10 oz bridle leather.

I guess I've experimented nonstop for several years with burnishing protocols.  I've used gum tragacanth, water, saddle soap, Martin's Edge Solution, polyvinyl acetate (Elmer's white glue), beeswax +/- paraffin, a homemade paste of carnauba wax-beeswax-neatsfoot oil, and Tokonole.  Slicking with canvas, wooden/plastic/bone burnishers, and the wooden power burnisher +/- a canvas sleeve.  I've also done a topcoat of beeswax applied with a heated edge iron.  All that stuff works, more or less.  The biggest thing for success with a power burnisher is learning how much water and lubricant are needed to produce a slick edge without overheating.  Just need to practice for your type of leather and burnishing machine.

Here's my current protocol for bridle leather.  I try to avoid sanding the edges unless they are really rough because edge finishing is already very time consuming, and sanding bridle leather can do more harm than good - the coarse fibers tend to pull up and the edge gets rougher.  I apply Pro Dye to the edge with a block of heavy felt or Magic Eraser held in a clothespin (or use one of the refillable markers with the felt tip).  Once the dye has soaked in but the edge is still damp I apply some saddle soap using a damp piece of canvas then immediately power burnish as a first pass.  I then dab on Tokonole (or Elmer's glue diluted 4-5x with water), wait for it to become tacky, then power burnish.  I finish by polishing the edge with a piece of dry canvas.  If I'm going to further seal the edge I dab on softened beeswax and work it into the leather with a heated edge iron.  I then rub the edge with a piece of canvas to remove excess wax.

I guess I will continue to experiment and would enjoy hearing others' experiences.  The HO bridle leather is difficult to slick, compared to regular veg tan, but I like its firm temper for horse tack.  Wickett and Craig bridle has a softer temper and is easier to slick.  HO traditional harness is waxy and easy to burnish.  That's my 2 cents.