Attaching vibram out sole to custom logger boots

[bdeming]

Hey everyone, I made a pair of logger boosts based on Nick boots in Spokane Washington

I used 12 to 14 ounce vegetable, tanned in natural color as the mid sole and I used barge contact cement to glue the sole to the rough out side of the midsole, but I am having adhesion problems and it’s starting to peel back.

 

I vaguely remember in a video of Nick Boots saying that they use a piece of rubber that goes between the leather midsole and the vibram outsole. 
 

looking for any tips on how to get better adhesion!

 

I used the vibram 100 Montagna 2 piece outsole in black

[Mablung]

Was the surface of the outsole that mated with the midsole roughed?  If it was still smooth, you'll have some adhesion problems.  Sometimes the cement will soak too far into the rough side of the leather, too, preventing good adhesion.  Did you wait until the cement was tacky, no longer wet but no longer totally dry?  Too far toward either end, and it won't adhere properly.

[bdeming]

On 5/21/2024 at 10:24 AM, Mablung said:

Was the surface of the outsole that mated with the midsole roughed?  If it was still smooth, you'll have some adhesion problems.  Sometimes the cement will soak too far into the rough side of the leather, too, preventing good adhesion.  Did you wait until the cement was tacky, no longer wet but no longer totally dry?  Too far toward either end, and it won't adhere properly.

The midsole was roughed, and the midsole was glued to the roughout side. The contact cement was tacky. 

 

I contacted Nicks Boots and they said "It's a rubber midsole, used in our water resistant models. It's about a quarter inch thick."

 

Doing some research resulted in the most likely rubber type is neoprene, being able to adhere well to rubber and leather. 1/4" seems pretty thick to me so I'm going with 1/8".

[Mablung]

1 minute ago, bdeming said:

The midsole was roughed, and the midsole was glued to the roughout side. The contact cement was tacky. 

 

I contacted Nicks Boots and they said "It's a rubber midsole, used in our water resistant models. It's about a quarter inch thick."

 

Doing some research resulted in the most likely rubber type is neoprene, being able to adhere well to rubber and leather. 1/4" seems pretty thick to me so I'm going with 1/8".

You certainly used the contact cement the right way, then.  Sheesh, a 1/4" midsole does seem thick.  Of course, Nick's Boots are pretty substantial, so I guess that fits.  I'm working on an idea for a pair of boots myself, so I'll remember that neoprene rubber is likely the best candidate.

[Aven]

Which contact cement did you use?  Barge, Renia Aquilim 315, something else?  How thick did you apply it?

[Mablung]

Aven’s question reminded me that my Tanner’s Bond doesn’t hold shoe soles on nearly as well as Barge does. That might make the difference, too. 

[Aven]

Don't forget to scuff up the rubber as well.  You might also wipe it down with something to get the oil/grease and bits of rubber off of it before you glue.  Silicon can mess will glue ups, so if you are using a silcon brush, switch to something else.

With Barge, two thin coats are much better than one thick coat. The solvents don't evaporate as well when there is too much globed onto the surfaces. Please use adequate ventilation and an organic respirator.  And don't pop your respirator off when you put the lid on the glue thinking its safe.  Its still in the air.  If you can smell it, you are breathing the nastiness in.

Renia Aquilim 315 has to be handled differently.  Lisa Sorrell has a youtube video on how to use it.  The biggest difference between the two, other than the solvent vs non-solvent aspect is that the Aquilim 315 has to completely dry, like a day or three of drying.  Then heat reactivates it. 

[Mablung]

1 minute ago, Aven said:

With Barge, two thin coats are much better than one thick coat. The solvents don't evaporate as well when there is too much globed onto the surfaces. Please use adequate ventilation and an organic respirator.  And don't pop your respirator off when you put the lid on the glue thinking its safe.  Its still in the air.  If you can smell it, you are breathing the nastiness in.  

Got a serious contact high (?) from using Barge in my basement one time.  Terrible idea.  Now it gets used in my garage.  Thinking I'm going to add in a respirator, as you mentioned.  That stuff is really effective, but wicked.

[Aven]

Just now, Mablung said:

Got a serious contact high (?) from using Barge in my basement one time.  Terrible idea.  Now it gets used in my garage.  Thinking I'm going to add in a respirator, as you mentioned.  That stuff is really effective, but wicked.

Its really wicked what it does to a body.

 

After you've attached the pieces together, don't forget to put it back on the last and beat it with a hammer, if you don't have a sole press.  The contact cement needs the pressure to really join the two pieces.

[Mablung]

37 minutes ago, Aven said:

Its really wicked what it does to a body.

 

After you've attached the pieces together, don't forget to put it back on the last and beat it with a hammer, if you don't have a sole press.  The contact cement needs the pressure to really join the two pieces.

Do you use a true cobbler’s hammer or something else? Best thing I have for pounding my glued pieces is a wooden mallet from a free kit I got. Mallet isn’t heavy, but I swing it pretty hard. The videos I’ve watched of people making shoes show them really pounding on things with a steel cobbler’s hammer, though. 

[Northmount]

On 5/21/2024 at 11:02 AM, bdeming said:

Hey everyone, I made a pair of logger boosts based on Nick boots in Spokane Washington

Moved your post to Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins

[ljk]

Was just watching a new Trenton and Heath video today on YouTube. They cleaned sole with acetone and then scuffed up surface.