Sewing Machine Table Ideas?

[fallendesperado]

I have a pretty messed up back and hip from years of abuse and age. I've been changing out all the tables and desks I use to the quickly adjustable height stuff so I can sit or stand as needed to keep working. 

I've been looking for a sewing table for an Adler 105-64 cylinder arm and it appears the adjustments are minimal on ready made stuff and they require tools and too much time to re-adjust. 

For those of you that sew a lot at your machines, would something like this work bench from Home Depot work as a sewing machine table if I used a layered plywood top and cut a "u" in it like the u tables? Having wheels is a plus for me.

Can you see any disadvantages?  Are pedestal stands superior to a table type?  

I really don't have much leather sewing experience and I'd rather not waste a lot of time and end up on a dead end. However, I do happen to already own that table so I can repurpose it cheap. 

Pics are the home depot table and a random "u" table 

[dikman]

With a bit of modification I don't see why it shouldn't work. Reinforce the table top, possibly with an angle iron bar underneath, and the cross bar at the bottom may need to be lowered to place the pedals closer to the ground for comfort. I'd keep the machine as close to the right as possible to keep the weight over the table winding mechanism (I'm assuming that the total weight of your setup is within the load capability of the winder?).

[kgg]

5 hours ago, fallendesperado said:

Having wheels is a plus for me.

 

5 hours ago, fallendesperado said:

Are pedestal stands superior to a table type?  

The various styles of tables really depends on the machine.

My take:

1) Flatbed machines are mostly used with a standard style industrial table with "K" legs and the proper cutout in the table top for that particular model of machine.

2) Cylinder arm machines typically are placed on "U" cutout table tops, Juki style tables and pedestal style tables. The "U" cutout are typically used with Juki LS-341 / LS-1341 and clone machines while Juki TSC-441 and clone machines use either the Juki style table or pedestal style tables. Then you get the hybrid tables and the hydraulic lift tables.

Which style of table is superior depends on the machine being placed on it, the users needs and the users preference. People do like the pedestal tables but can be inherently tippy and if banged the wrong way could possibly topple. In my case with the style I chose for my Juki TSC-441 clone mainly had to do with me owning dogs. I could see that if a couple of them got playing and stuck a pedestal mounted machine the wrong way there was the possibility it could get knocked over.

Machine tables with wheels can be a benefit but the wheels have to be lockable and rated to take the weight. The best solution I think would be to use retractable casters rated for your machine and table. When you want to move the machine / table you engage the wheels and move it then retract them so the machine / table then rests firmly on the tables base. I use this style of casters on a floor mounted hydraulic press conversion ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m3NhGWMinQ )

Just like all sewing machines no one machine will do everything and the same can be applied to the style of table. As @dikman indicated make sure that lifting winder and legs can take the total weight you are planning on installing on top or underneath the table top.

What machine are you planning on mounting to the table??

kgg

 

[bruce johnson]

I've got that  Home Depot table in the tool shop, but I have the version with drawer.  It is a good height to work over the top for my smaller knife sharpener and a few cranks to lower and I can sit on a rolling chair with a fairly high adjustment to use for hand sharpening and filing.  There is not the amount of adjustment in the table that I would be comfortable with for both sitting and standing while sewing. To be honest, I never liked standing to sew. I could sight my needle and stitch groove better sitting. go for longer stretches. and have more foot control. That's just me. 

[fallendesperado]

@kgg it's an adler 105-64. It's a cylinder arm. 

[kgg]

3 hours ago, fallendesperado said:

it's an adler 105-64. It's a cylinder arm. 

From the info, last photo, I have seen your machine is going to be about the same weight as the Juki TSC-441 and clones around the 125 lb range. Base on the weight I would not go with the "U" style table unless you brace the machine with a third "K" leg right under the machine. For my machine I did sort of a hybrid of the "U" . What I done that may give you some ideas:

i) I used a standard industrial "K" frame and table top then I added a third "K" but turned the third "K" leg backwards and placed it directly under the center of the machine. The third "K" leg ensures no possibility of the table top warping / bending and gives better stability.

ii) Then I cutout a section of the table top and made other mods like extra cross bracing and relocating the thread spools to underneath the table top.

Like @bruce johnson I like sewing being sat down whether using a flatbed or a cylinder arm machine as I find it more comfortable and better foot control of the "go pedal".

kgg

Edited June 27 by kgg

[fallendesperado]

On 6/27/2024 at 2:17 PM, kgg said:

From the info, last photo, I have seen your machine is going to be about the same weight as the Juki TSC-441 and clones around the 125 lb range. Base on the weight I would not go with the "U" style table unless you brace the machine with a third "K" leg right under the machine. For my machine I did sort of a hybrid of the "U" . What I done that may give you some ideas:

i) I used a standard industrial "K" frame and table top then I added a third "K" but turned the third "K" leg backwards and placed it directly under the center of the machine. The third "K" leg ensures no possibility of the table top warping / bending and gives better stability.

ii) Then I cutout a section of the table top and made other mods like extra cross bracing and relocating the thread spools to underneath the table top.

Like @bruce johnson I like sewing being sat down whether using a flatbed or a cylinder arm machine as I find it more comfortable and better foot control of the "go pedal".

kgg

Oh, I see what you mean. Needing a third leg would pretty much take out the ability to adjust the table up and down quickly with the crank.    

[kgg]

1 hour ago, fallendesperado said:

Needing a third leg would pretty much take out the ability to adjust the table up and down quickly with the crank.

If you really need the ability to move the table up and down I think the only real option would be some form of hydraulic lift, mechanical hand pump, air over hydraulic or electric over hydraulic. The down side to being able to move the machine up and down at will is you will have to come up with a method for activating the foot pedals rather then the typical mechanical method ( rod or chain ), maybe using electric controls.

Also:

i) If you are going to cut the table top it will reduce the max capacity of 300 lb down so you would need to do the calculations to figure out by how much.

ii) Looking at the spec for the table top on the homedepot table, the top is only 1.2" thick. It really should be 1.5" min.

iii) Another option for making your own table would be go to a sewing machine repair shop and see what if they have a used table frame. When I need one I usually pay about $60 CAD for the complete frame. 

kgg

[fallendesperado]

On 6/29/2024 at 5:14 PM, kgg said:

If you really need the ability to move the table up and down I think the only real option would be some form of hydraulic lift, mechanical hand pump, air over hydraulic or electric over hydraulic. The down side to being able to move the machine up and down at will is you will have to come up with a method for activating the foot pedals rather then the typical mechanical method ( rod or chain ), maybe using electric controls.

Also:

i) If you are going to cut the table top it will reduce the max capacity of 300 lb down so you would need to do the calculations to figure out by how much.

ii) Looking at the spec for the table top on the homedepot table, the top is only 1.2" thick. It really should be 1.5" min.

iii) Another option for making your own table would be go to a sewing machine repair shop and see what if they have a used table frame. When I need one I usually pay about $60 CAD for the complete frame. 

kgg

I was thinking of replace the table top. Maybe use 3 inches of birch plywood glued together. 

 

The pedals are definitely an issue since they use steel rods to connect to a speed controller . I'd have to sacrifice using a pedal foot lift or design solenoid to actuate the pedal lift arm.  The speed pedal is probably not to difficult to redesign but the foot lift would be really tricky. 

It might be a bunch easier to just get a sit down sewing table and try finfing some sort of ergonimic chair.

After all the back surgeries and damage sitting or standing get unbearable pretty quickly but going back and forth between the 2 positions is far easier to tolerate but it might be impossible to engineer with this type of machine .

[dikman]

How about modifying the foot lift rod by replacing it (or most of it with a chain? It's pretty easy to make it adjustable by using a hook (I simply opened up a link on mine to make a hook).

[$$hobby]

for what its worth.

Some thoughts....

how about the frame? you will need to come up with a motor mount too.

if you are changing the height, i would make sure that you can do that 1st and if possible sometype of mechanical/pneumatic or? to do it easier.  

that also goes for the controls too.

a thought.  I dont know how much room you have to work in/around.  But if you build your new table top to cantilever the right side of the HD bench and position the base of the machine over the legs, that could be enough support so all you need is some thicker/rigid table top.  It would also give you more table top work/sewing space.

good luck