How to carve an elephant?

[Regis]

Here is a link to an elephant and I'm trying to learn how to create textured look. Link shows original photo and then converted to grey greyscale.

QUESTION: After carving outline & main lines, what approach would you take? Would you use a knife or stamp or some combination to get the textured look on the elephant? If using stamp(s) can you give me some startoing idea(s). Or, would you go the other route and use coloring (dye/acrylic)?

Elephant-pic

Appreciate some thoughts and help.

Regis

Edited February 3, 2007 by Regis

[ClayB]

My first thoughts would be to try some matting tools. Tandy has some numbered M655, M656, M657 or Hidecrafter has similar tools numbered E281, E282, and E283. These might give a texture similar to the elephant skin. My next thought was to see if Jan Schoonover ever did an elephant. He did, and you can see it here. http://www.sculpturedleather.com/site/4599...age/138654/site

His pose is different so I don't know if that will help you out a lot. In one of the classes that I took with him, he showed us how to make simple background tools out of wooden dowels. He just takes a piece of wooden dowel about 3 inches long and cuts random lines in the end with a small file. This would be a fairly inexpensive way to make your own texture tool and if you don't like the impression it makes, just cut it shorter and try again. I don't think I would cut the texture in with a knife. One other thing you could try is just to "draw" the texture in with a modeling tool.

Those are some ideas, someone else will probably have some others that you could try.

Clay

[Billsotx]

The E294-03 and 04 remind me of elephant hide.

[Regis]

Thanks for the tool suggestions. I don't have them now but, looked in catalog and can certainly see where they will help. Using what I have and improvising a little, here is scan where I am at this point. Any comments to improve look would be appreciated. This is practice and actual elephant size is about 3" X 4.5"

Elephant-early cuts and texturing

Thanks,

Regis

[pepin1948]

It's a good start. I would use a modelling spoon to smooth out the bevelling a little. I hate flat bevellers, but that technique works for me. I have a modelling spoon that Peter Main made, and it's awesome. He doesn't even use bevellers at all!

[Regis]

Thanks wildrose. I smoothed out the bevels but, I think I have them tooo narrow and probably need to widen or flare out more...somehow. Look a little too pronounced around the outside edge.

Here is a little further and with a little more texture.

Elephant-update1

I'm beginning to see that it will be difficult to determine when to stop texturing.

Thanks,

Regis

[pepin1948]

Better already I tend to fear over texturing myself. I did my first cat, from a Stohlman pattern, recently, and it was one of the toughest things for me. After such a project, I always retreat to my Celtic knots :biggrin:

[ClayB]

Thanks wildrose. I smoothed out the bevels but, I think I have them tooo narrow and probably need to widen or flare out more...somehow. Look a little too pronounced around the outside edge.

Here is a little further and with a little more texture.

Elephant-update1

I'm beginning to see that it will be difficult to determine when to stop texturing.

Thanks,

Regis

Hi Regis,

You are doing pretty good with the elephant. Here are a few suggestions that can consider trying.

When beveling away from the animal, you should try to fade the bevel back until it blends into the background. This takes some practice. On the fore ground, usually you will use smooth figure carving bevelers. If you tilt them away from the flat edge, it helps to avoid leaving tool marks. Where your figure meets the sky area, you usually use a checkered figure carving matt tool. You could make this work with any beveler but the bigger, flatter tool you use, the less chance of getting a lot of tool marks.

Always be careful when tracing your pattern. It looks like the hind leg is narrower than the front. Small things like that are important when trying to carve animals.

The line of the belly should continue a forward across the far side leg to the near side front leg.

It looks like you used a seeder to put in the eye. That works, but be careful not to hit it too hard.

Where the feet touch the ground, you might try double beveling the lines. This means to bevel the line on both side (top and bottom). This will make it look more like the animal is stepping on the ground and not floating.

I hope you don't think I am being too critical about your carving because I am not trying to be. Just trying to pass on some of the things people have shared with me about making realistic looking animals.

Al Stohlman did a really good book called Figure Carving Finesse. Probably the best book I have seen on carving animals. Al demonstrated how to carve a multitude of different animals and textures.

Clay

[Regis]

Clay,

Thanks a lot and you and wildrose are telleing me exactly what I need to learn. I'm still at learning many basics. For example, I think you were pointing out foreground and background beveling. I 'think' I got into trouble right away by beveling toooo hard everywhere. Should I be beveling very little in foreground and deeper in background? Or should I make the distinction by fading wider (like you said toward the sky)? Or am I confusing this with changing to matt beveler that you mentioned for background > sky?

I did get a little sloppy on the tracing (particularly leg and tusks).

Yep, one overzelous wack in the eye!!!

I don't understand the double beveling you mentioned where the feet hit the ground???

Once I finish this elephant (with all its flaws) I'll make a new one with what I'm learning here. With this scene having at least 7 or so levels of depth perceptions (foreground to background), this is really difficult for me. And making me think of and learn a LOT more than simply outlining and slightly highlighting. It sure would be nice to be able to show all the details and dimension before any dye/painting. Then use color just a little to compliment highlights and shading.

Thank you again,

Regis

[Hoyden]

It's a good start. I would use a modelling spoon to smooth out the bevelling a little. I hate flat bevellers, but that technique works for me. I have a modelling spoon that Peter Main made, and it's awesome. He doesn't even use bevellers at all!

I'd love to learn that technique, especially with my knotwork! Any tips where I can find a book or tutorial?