Is it better do oil before or after dyeing?

[redline]

What will help the dye seep deeper into the leather, minimizing rub off, and  give overall better results? oiling before or after dyeing?

[Dwight]

I always (well . . . 95% of the time) . . . oil every project BEFORE dying.

I find it gives a more even dye result.

I use a 1 inch bristle paint brush (Harbor Freight . . . about 50 cents each) . . . and I give the HAIR SIDE only a wet coat.  Not a saturating coat . . . just a even wet coat . . . it will turn the leather almost dark brown as you put it on.

Let it "dry" for 24 hours . . . do not hang belts long ways . . . lay them on their side . . . put all projects on flat surface . . . hair side up . . . not in front of a window near sunlight.

This has worked well for me for a long time . . . my specialties are belts, holsters, slings, knife sheaths . . . etc.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

[badhatter1005]

Being as to Dwight is the godfather of leather. I'm going to for the hundredth time say I agree with Dwight 100%. Same method I use except the applicator. I use a sponge opposed to a bristle brush. Although now I'm probably going to harbor freight and buy $100 worth of bristle brushes. Pretty much open-ended answer at this point. I agree with Dwight.

Edited September 13, 2024 by badhatter1005
Misspelled

[SUP]

@Dwight's suggestion is the way to oil leather with Neatsfoot oil, because too much of that oil makes leather too soft and floppy and that is virtually irreversible. That is why, as he advices, a good wetting with the oil is needed but not saturation. Allowing it to dry with the flesh side up then allows the oil to migrate to the grain side just sufficiently to oil that side as well. Same reason why you should not dry it hanging up - the oil will migrate to one side.

I use a sponge to apply it as well, but it should not really matter, as long as you are careful not to let it saturate in the area where you first touch the leather with the sponge. I avoid that by wringing out the sponge first and then dabbing t on the leather first.

[Herbie]

8 hours ago, Dwight said:

I always (well . . . 95% of the time) . . . oil every project BEFORE dying.

I find it gives a more even dye result.

I use a 1 inch bristle paint brush (Harbor Freight . . . about 50 cents each) . . . and I give the HAIR SIDE only a wet coat.  Not a saturating coat . . . just a even wet coat . . . it will turn the leather almost dark brown as you put it on.

Let it "dry" for 24 hours . . . do not hang belts long ways . . . lay them on their side . . . put all projects on flat surface . . . hair side up . . . not in front of a window near sunlight.

This has worked well for me for a long time . . . my specialties are belts, holsters, slings, knife sheaths . . . etc.

May God bless,

Dwight

 

 

16 minutes ago, SUP said:

@Dwight's suggestion is the way to oil leather with Neatsfoot oil, because too much of that oil makes leather too soft and floppy and that is virtually irreversible. That is why, as he advices, a good wetting with the oil is needed but not saturation. Allowing it to dry with the flesh side up then allows the oil to migrate to the grain side just sufficiently to oil that side as well. Same reason why you should not dry it hanging up - the oil will migrate to one side.

I use a sponge to apply it as well, but it should not really matter, as long as you are careful not to let it saturate in the area where you first touch the leather with the sponge. I avoid that by wringing out the sponge first and then dabbing t on the leather first.

Is this technique considered "hydrating the leather"?  This is a term I have heard used before.  I have been using NFO just like mentioned in the above quotes and have been happy with the results, so I stocked up on NFO.

I do wonder if there are other methods and materials to try out though. Just out of curiosity.

 

[SUP]

Not sure whether this is hydrating of leather.

I have heard about hydrating or re-hydration only for very dry leather. I find that for hydrating or rehydrating leathers, people recommend conditioners and leather cleansers, which, if you examine their ingredients, have water as an ingredient. I suspect some of that water rehydrates dry leather and the non-aqueous ingredients condition and keep the fibres supple, hydrated and conditioned.

Personally, I just clean dry, cracking leather with saddle soap and water, wipe it clean and allow to dry. I condition with a conditioning protective balm and I am good to go.

 

[Herbie]

2 hours ago, SUP said:

Not sure whether this is hydrating of leather.

I have heard about hydrating or re-hydration only for very dry leather. I find that for hydrating or rehydrating leathers, people recommend conditioners and leather cleansers, which, if you examine their ingredients, have water as an ingredient. I suspect some of that water rehydrates dry leather and the non-aqueous ingredients condition and keep the fibres supple, hydrated and conditioned.

Personally, I just clean dry, cracking leather with saddle soap and water, wipe it clean and allow to dry. I condition with a conditioning protective balm and I am good to go.

 

Thanks for the info.

Do you recommend any specific products?

[SUP]

I cannot, since I make my own conditioning balm. but most that you get in stores should do. Leather is pretty hardy that way.

[ScottWolf]

5 hours ago, Herbie said:

 

Is this technique considered "hydrating the leather"?  This is a term I have heard used before.  I have been using NFO just like mentioned in the above quotes and have been happy with the results, so I stocked up on NFO.

I do wonder if there are other methods and materials to try out though. Just out of curiosity.

 

I have heard it called that as well. Whether one uses oil or water before dyeing will cause the leather fibers to swell and allow even penetration of the dye down into/between the fibers. Doing this reduces the chances of lighter/darker and uneven coloring in the dye job, especially on dry/older leather.I typically clean and wash the leather, so it is still damp when I do my dyeing, after it has dried and I've wiped the excess dye off and have no rub off, I will condition the piece, as dyeing can dry the leather out and leave a flat,dull looking finish. After conditioning the piece I seal it.  

[Herbie]

8 minutes ago, ScottWolf said:

I have heard it called that as well. Whether one uses oil or water before dyeing will cause the leather fibers to swell and allow even penetration of the dye down into/between the fibers. Doing this reduces the chances of lighter/darker and uneven coloring in the dye job, especially on dry/older leather.I typically clean and wash the leather, so it is still damp when I do my dyeing, after it has dried and I've wiped the excess dye off and have no rub off, I will condition the piece, as dyeing can dry the leather out and leave a flat,dull looking finish. After conditioning the piece I seal it.  

Do you mind if I ask what you use for conditioner and sealer?

[ScottWolf]

31 minutes ago, Herbie said:

Do you mind if I ask what you use for conditioner and sealer?

I use my DIY leather conditioner. The recipe for it is posted in the forum here.

[Herbie]

1 hour ago, ScottWolf said:

I use my DIY leather conditioner. The recipe for it is posted in the forum here.

Yep..got it!  Thank you.