Knife Display Case - WIP

[Brokenolmarine]

On 9/29/2024 at 1:33 PM, DieselTech said:

I would reach out to Tim Purdy at Steel Stamps Inc. He does some awesome work. 

He did my 1½" makers mark stamp. 

Really great guy to deal with. 

Nice work on the large quilted basket weave tooling. Looks great. 

I sent Tim an email query late Sunday evening, got my reply early this morning.  We sent emails back and forth for a couple hours.  I just paid my invoice.  Thanks for the suggestion.  His stamps aren't inexpensive, but they aren't Cheaply Made in china either.  I expect it will outlast ME.  I should have it in a couple weeks at most.

[DieselTech]

32 minutes ago, Brokenolmarine said:

I sent Tim an email query late Sunday evening, got my reply early this morning.  We sent emails back and forth for a couple hours.  I just paid my invoice.  Thanks for the suggestion.  His stamps aren't inexpensive, but they aren't Cheaply Made in china either.  I expect it will outlast ME.  I should have it in a couple weeks at most.

You will love it. Yeah his stamps are buy 1 & it will last forever type stamps. Kinda Buy Once, Cry Once type stamp.

But I have used my stamp for heat foil transfer to leather, as well as making brass & aluminum plates with it. To its actual job of stamping leather. 

Congrats. Can't wait to see it on some of your nice leatherwork. 

[Brokenolmarine]

I got a session in the shop this morning, a long(ish) one.  I got the internal tooling done and then the accent cuts on each block.  I will keep an eye peeled for any blocks that may need individual correction to tune their look, but I'm pretty much ready to start on the tooling of the border, been looking forward to that.

 

Here is a bit closer look at the two sides.  One looks a bit darker as it's still wet from the morning's tooling.  They do match when they are both dry.  Once the border has been tooled, I can move to dye / stain work.  While each phase of that is drying, I'll work on the construction of the case again.  Flipping back and forth between work on the leather panel and the case itself.  Can't see the light at the end of the tunnel yet, but at least I don't feel stuck in a traffic jam with that big tooling job on the open basket weave... THAT was a big job. 

 

[AlZilla]

Kind of like the Sistine Chapel.

[Brokenolmarine]

Yeah, No... 

Got back out this afternoon to tool the Serpentine border.  It's a one tool job as well.  I made mine from another Tandy tool, grinding off one leg of the H shaped tool.

You simply stamp the tool along the border, keeping the edge square to the edge with the point to the inside, careful to space the stamps with the ends touching.

Then come back on the opposite side, shifting half a space so the point is centered on the loop.

[Brokenolmarine]

I finished the one side without a noticeable error.  All it took was to go slow, and look at each reference point.  On the first row, you just check to make sure both rear edge points are ON the line before you strike and you are golden.  On the second pass on the opposite side of the tooling window, there are three areas of interest.

Are you ON the line.

Are you square to the line.

Are you centered on the loop across from you; your original spacing may not be exact, you always check.

[Brokenolmarine]

Got both sides done without error, and was really happy with the result.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Here is the long view...

I left it to dry overnight and tomorrow, after checking for final areas that might need attention, I'll consider starting on the staining and finishing.  I might go around and use the spoon end of the stylus to flatten any of the tics left from tooling the Serpentine pattern you see in the above pics. Some do, some don't.  They are caused by the small space between the tool that gives the design it's flow.

While the stain dries, or the other finishes, I'll start on the case again.  

[Gezzer]

Very NICE !!!!  

May I ask why the serpentine  goes to the centerline on just the one end ?

[Brokenolmarine]

1 hour ago, Gezzer said:

Very NICE !!!!  

May I ask why the serpentine  goes to the centerline on just the one end ?

Because the old man screwed up... Caught me.

 

That error will (should) be covered by the magnets, so that mistake won't show, thankfully.    If it did for some reason, I would simply run the border together on both sides, and let the mags cover what the will.  (Sigh)

Edited October 2 by Brokenolmarine

[Gezzer]

12 minutes ago, Brokenolmarine said:

Because the old man screwed up... Caught me.

 

LOL !! As an old carpenter " it's not a mistake if it can be fixed " .  Sounds like you have it covered  and one after all that tooling doesn't count anyway 

[Brokenolmarine]

Back out for a last session this evening.  Used the stylus as planned to knock out the tics and then added one personal touch to the border.  I always thought the corners in this pattern looked like snake heads, so I give them eyes.  It's called a Serpent (ine) pattern after all. 

After that, I went ahead and covered the table and dyed the panel yellow as a base.  It's JUST a base.  A lot of folks don't like the yellow and stroke out when they see it, but it's a BASE.  Once it's antiqued and then the Watco Natural Oil finish is applied it settles in to a soft glow, toned down by the secondary applications.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

7 minutes ago, Gezzer said:

LOL !! As an old carpenter " it's not a mistake if it can be fixed " .  Sounds like you have it covered  and one after all that tooling doesn't count anyway 

Thanks, I remember an old woodworker I learned a  lot from who had a note card in his shop that said, UNLESS someone sees you do it, or you can't fix it, it's NOT a mistake, it's a learning experience.

 

Edited October 2 by Brokenolmarine
remove unneeded pic

[Brokenolmarine]

Here is the yellow dye pic, once it dries it should be even....

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Normally, when I leave the shop, I use the dust cover from my Table Saw (Seen uncovered in the background) to cover the panel to keep dust and other contaminates off it while it dries.  With wet dye on the panel I didn't want the cover to touch it.  I put four clamps vertically on the table corners, stretched the cover over the clamps and then using small clamps, attached it to them.  Should protect it until morning.... 

[Brokenolmarine]

If all goes well, I can apply the watco oil first thing, then a resistor coat in the morning.  By afternoon I should be able to antique it.  THAT should really bring the panel to life.

[Brokenolmarine]

Had an errand to run for the boss this morning, the wife is still down with the flu.  Before I left, I applied that Watco Oil.  Sure toned down that yellow a bit.  While I'm gone the oil will have a chance to dry.  Once it does, we can get a chance to see how she looks after antiquing.

[Brokenolmarine]

Time to antique.  First I pulled the jar of Dark Walnut antique and covered the entire panel.  Not a doubt that it is one way to subdue the yellow.  

By the time I had covered the second half of the panel the first half had started to dry.  I didn't want to let it dry completely so I started to wipe it away with paper towels.  The secret here is to fold the towels and keep them flat to the surface.  This leaves the antiquing in the areas where you want it.  I worked quickly to insure the second half of the panel didn't dry.  Some people like to let it dry and then remove the antique with a wet cloth.  To each his own.  You can always add more antique back or remove more with a q-tip or dampened cloth later.  Right up until you apply your sealant or topcoat.

I am pretty happy with the final result here.  The golden undertone is the result of the yellow base, and the antique highlights all that tooling.  I don't think I wasted those days ...   The panel will be the background for the knife case, but will still look good behind them.  Better than some burgundy velvet.  (Although, that would have been classy.)

All that is left on the panel is to apply my topcoat of choice when the antique is fully dry.  Lexol or sheen.  Then wax.  I am going to work on the case until then.

A bit of sanding then assembly.  Some holes to drill and lights to install. 

[Brokenolmarine]

I settled on Tan Kote for the finish and went out and applied that finish. It looked good while drying so I moved on to work on the case.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

I was ready to do the final sanding on the case components and dug out my Cabinet Scrapers.  I sharpened a pair of those and got to work.  A sharp cabinet scraper saves a bundle on sand paper, and leaves a near mirror finish.  In addition, it's quiet, just the whisper of the scraper across the wood, and no muss or fuss.  Very little dust, if any.  It takes a bit to learn to properly sharpen them, but once I got it down, they are my go to for large projects.

Sharp ones cut fine shavings.

[Brokenolmarine]

I was almost ready for the final assembly of the case to this point, but I had learned a few lessons over the years.  I would do ONE last test assembly before glue and screw time.  I wanted to insure there were no errors along the way.  Every component fit, and there was no muss or fuss.

Looks like I'll put 'er together in the morning when I'm fresh, then move on to building the plexiglass and wood cover and installing lights.

[Brokenolmarine]

Out in the shop after brunch.  Up very early and made the hour drive to the dentist and the hour drive back.. my morning was shot.

I disassembled the project as planned and carefully remarked each piece to assure reassembly went well.    I set aside the panel and prepped the case walls for staining.  I needed to tape off any areas that would be glued or the glue wouldn't hold well after the stain was applied.  (Just like leatherwork.)  A real PITA, but a necessary evil.

I decided to continue with the use of Watco Oil, I really like it.  A great product, and easy to use.  I've mentioned it a lot, and for those who haven't seen it, here is a peek.

You wipe 'er on and let it soak in, then wipe off the excess and let it dry. Buff it out.   I apply a second coat, follow the same procedure.  Some stop here. Done.  I apply a coat or three of Beeswax, or any good quality wax.  The great thing about this is if it begins to look dull, buff it out or rewax.  Get a ding, no need to refinish an entire area.  Repair the ding, apply the oil, then wax, buff, done.

 

[Brokenolmarine]

Here are the case sides after two coats of Watco, drying.  I'll wax them, then assemble.  Once the entire project is done the project will get a couple more coats of wax.

The colors of the sides don't match exactly, but it's natural wood, they are all from the same slab, but different sections.  It happens.  I'm not concerned.

[Cattleman]

On 9/29/2024 at 12:33 PM, DieselTech said:

I would reach out to Tim Purdy at Steel Stamps Inc. He does some awesome work. 

He did my 1½" makers mark stamp. 

Really great guy to deal with. 

Nice work on the large quilted basket weave tooling. Looks great. 

I second Tim at Steel Stamps....

Very nice work. This is mine... 1 inch.

[Brokenolmarine]

Mine is due on Saturday, USPS Priority Mail.  Can't wait!  If it looks as good as I expect, I plan to make a new maker's mark and cement it over the one currently on the panel for this project. 

Edited October 3 by Brokenolmarine