Kovant Report post Posted October 6 (edited) Hello So far I have been using hemp yarn for welted and for the sole to make boots and shoes (all handmade). In principle I will continue to use it for the welted as it suits me well (unless you advise me on a thread that is more worthwhile), but I would like to use another more polished and in different colors for the sole. I have no idea what thickness is suitable or the most appropriate material. Could someone help me? Thank you very much Edited October 6 by Kovant Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mablung Report post Posted October 6 Most use braided or twisted polyester or nylon thread. There are a lot of threads on the market, but the ones I use are the Ritza 25 braided and the Maine Thread Company braided and twisted. I like braided better than twisted, because the twisted tends to come unraveled as one stitches, due to the pressure on the tail. It can be retwisted to a degree, but it’s a bit of a pain. The braided Maine Thread is a round braid, unlike the Ritza flat braid. The Maine Thread feels stronger to me, but it’s also a royal PITA to pierce with a needle that has a large enough eye to thread effectively. I use 0.8mm, generally, but 0.6 would also do the trick. I tend to buy heavy threads because I don’t make many delicate items, and a lot of what I make needs to hold up to some heavy use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aven Report post Posted October 6 I use black Nyltex Thread for anything sole related. I know Springfield carries it as well as several other supply houses. As far as I know, it comes in at least 3 colors, black, brown and white. You might find it in tan as well. I think it only comes in one thickness. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mablung Report post Posted October 6 4 hours ago, Aven said: I use black Nyltex Thread for anything sole related. I know Springfield carries it as well as several other supply houses. As far as I know, it comes in at least 3 colors, black, brown and white. You might find it in tan as well. I think it only comes in one thickness. Good to know. Is it a particular kind of nylon? I may get some for some hunting boots I plan to make soon, as I need to attach the sole very sturdily. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aven Report post Posted October 7 I honestly don't know much about it. It's what Jason had us use in the shoe making classes. It was impossible to break and it comes prewaxed. I know that several shoe making shops, orthopedic supple houses carry it. Are there other options? Probably, but I was satisfied with it. I've only used it on three pairs of shoes with rubber soles, so my experience is limited. If you want a more informed option, you could contact Southern leather Co or Springfield to see what they know about it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kovant Report post Posted October 7 Thank you very much to all of you. I have never seen (or not noticed) a shoe sewn with flat thread. Does it look good? Wouldn't you have any pictures to see how it looks? 0.8 would be enough for boots or better 1mm? I like to know that being flat it won't get the needle in the thread when sewing (with the round sometimes it happens. More than I would like). On the other hand there is a problem: I am from Europe and of the ones you have told me about here I can only find the Ritza. Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aven Report post Posted October 7 All of my shoes have been more on the rustic side of custom. In my mind Ritza isn't a bad choice, just a bit expensive for my budget. If you have a local cobbler, and if they are willing to talk shop with you, ask them for their opinion on threads and maybe they will share where they get it from. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kovant Report post Posted October 10 Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jcuk Report post Posted October 28 On 10/6/2024 at 3:39 PM, Mablung said: twisted tends to come unraveled as one stitches, due to the pressure on the tail. It can be retwisted to a degree, but it’s a bit of a pain When doing longer runs of hand stitching it helps if you drop both threads every now and then, it will recoil its self and then and then a quick re-wax. Hope this helps Jcuk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mablung Report post Posted October 28 1 minute ago, jcuk said: When doing longer runs of hand stitching it helps if you drop both threads every now and then, it will recoil its self and then and then a quick re-wax. Hope this helps Jcuk Thanks for the tip. I re-wax occasionally but don't know that I've ever just dropped the strands to let them relax back to normal. I'll try that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jcuk Report post Posted October 28 (edited) Its helps not perfect but good enough. Just remember if they are so long to hit the floor hold them enough to help the threads re-coil Edited October 28 by jcuk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mishakhan Report post Posted November 5 On 10/6/2024 at 3:11 AM, Kovant said: Hello So far I have been using hemp yarn for welted and for the sole to make boots and shoes (all handmade). In principle I will continue to use it for the welted as it suits me well (unless you advise me on a thread that is more worthwhile), but I would like to use another more polished and in different colors for the sole. I have no idea what thickness is suitable or the most appropriate material. Could someone help me? Thank you very much Try waxed linen 1mm thread thickness would give a polished look and durablity for sole stitching Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
