gunfighter48 Report post Posted December 20, 2007 I am going to make my daughter a Bible cover and want to use a pigskin lining. I have never used a lining before on any of my projects and just want to find out the best procedure to use to glue it to the leather cover. If I use contact cement will it bleed thru to the front of the lining? Any help would be much appreciated. If anyone has any good cross patterns they are will to share, I could use some. Thanks, John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Report post Posted December 20, 2007 Use the glue sparingly. You may use contact cement or white glue such as Leatherweld. Lightly apply to both sides, allow to become tacky and then adhere the pieces together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheathmaker Report post Posted December 20, 2007 It is a good idea to block cut the front cover pattern over size all directions by 1/4 inch or more. Glue up the lining and apply. Then cut the exact pattern size. This way you have nice, neat matched up edges. Paul Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted December 20, 2007 John, I use quite a lot pigskin lining on things. I have not had a problem with the glue bleeding through. Once in a while I will get a "wet spot" but that must be solvent. It evaporates pretty quickly and is not sticky. One thing to watch with pigskin is pinholes. Because it is so thin they are more common than with other types of lining. When I pull a new piece, I hold it up to the light and cut out any pinholes right off the bat. Glue will go through the tiniest pinhole and mess you up. I attach the linings with the cement still a little wet. If it is too dry and I get a wrinkle, it can be a pain to pull and reposition. I am attaching a picture of a Bible cover I did a few years ago for a bullfighter. He sketched out the design and sent it to me. He wanted the cross done in "old turquoise" and silver. This cover is one of my favorites. This cross probably gets more comments than most others I do. I think Chan Geer has a book with some cross patterns, and I am sure a Google image search will bring up a bunch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted December 20, 2007 Bruce- I use pigskin occasionally too for lining but really don't like it for things that need to bend- wallets, checkbooks, etc.The stuff just doesn't stretch at all and getting some creases out is next to impossible with some small folds. Is there a certain type that you use for these? Mission pig, etc pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted December 20, 2007 Pete, Is mission lining the black plastic feeling stuff? If so, I haven't used it for a long time. I used to use the boot lining pig from TLF, and still have some around. It is pretty stretchy, a little nappy, and really lays in flat for me. I think they carry it in natural and "biscuit" or "straw" color. I used to just call up and ask for "straw pig". In the last year or two, I have gone to the "glazed pig". It has a glazed or jacked finish. Pretty rich kind of feel. It is maybe a little less stretchy than the lining pig. I have not had creasing problems with either of these. I line all my small folding things like business card holders and checkbooks with it. I have started using it on zippered planners in the last few months too. At about $1 a foot, it is less expensive than what I was using before. TLF used to have the glazed pig in a copper color. The last few orders they have had a really nice golden color. I do have wrinkling problems laying it in sometimes. Because it is so flexible (and I glue outside) the wind will pick it up and fold it back on itself. If I don't have a helper holding it up, sometimes it will lay in with a wrinkle on a big piece. I usually apply Barge to the main piece, and while it is drying, apply to the lining. When the lining is still a little slippery, but starting to tack, I lay it on. If I put it on tacked and dry, it is harder to reposition. I smooth it down with palm pressure, and give it time to set. Usually an hour or so. Then I run my blocker over it with some pressure to stick it down. I don't really mess with testing folds on anything for a day or so. The glue may not have a mature bond and get some piping in the creases. Seems like once you break a bond, it never quite sets down as tight, even if it is still tacky. Let it dry all the way and then try it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin King Report post Posted December 20, 2007 I use 3M 90 to glue my linings in. Havn't had any issues yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robert Report post Posted December 21, 2007 i use the Tandy pigskin splits for lining on a lot of stuff... cheap and looks nice i think. i dont have a problem with contact cement bleeding through. and its thin enough and has enough stretch that it works well with or folds. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites