Stitching Question

[SUP]

@toxo why noy make a brick of coad and rub that along the stitching line or run your thread through it before stitching? You can make it as hard or soft or sticky as you like. Punching on wax helps the chisel slip out of the leather easier. Coad on thread might help as well, getting onto the 2nd needle through a stitching hole, the first going through a clean hole and pulling the waxed thread behind it, and waxing the stitching hole enough to wax the 2nd needle.

This site has plenty of information on coad, only not easily available right now as the site recovers from last week's hack attack. You could buy it but where' the fun in that?

Search on google for 'coad wax' though and the first item you see is the thread on this site from 2016, with a good recipe. 

 

[toxo]

35 minutes ago, SUP said:

@toxo why noy make a brick of coad and rub that along the stitching line or run your thread through it before stitching? You can make it as hard or soft or sticky as you like. Punching on wax helps the chisel slip out of the leather easier. Coad on thread might help as well, getting onto the 2nd needle through a stitching hole, the first going through a clean hole and pulling the waxed thread behind it, and waxing the stitching hole enough to wax the 2nd needle.

This site has plenty of information on coad, only not easily available right now as the site recovers from last week's hack attack. You could buy it but where' the fun in that?

Search on google for 'coad wax' though and the first item you see is the thread on this site from 2016, with a good recipe. 

 

This is not about the thread SUP. It's about pulling chisels out of leather after punching. I don't do much hand sewing these days but when I did I did use both methods to make the pulling easier. Rubbing a bar along the stitch line is fine on a paper pattern before punching but doing it on the actual leather may interfere with whatever finish you want to put on. What I'm talking about above is just a way to contain the wax to where it's actually needed in a very thin line thus negating the need for any other waxing.

[SUP]

Oh. Okay. I'm lazy, I'm afraid. So I'll stick to the wax block until someone enterprising, like you () comes up with a good recipe for making that wax in a bottle and shares it.  However, if I don't use the wax block, I have the headache of needing to cut more splits, more frequently. Melting and hardening wax is infinitely easier than  doing that. It also is the safest for the tips of my chisels. I have never ever punched right through the wax block. 

 

 

[Beehive]

If you wrap a piece of tape at a known depth on a French iron. You can repeat the same size holes. It also helps give a visual on how far in your going or need to go. 

I'm not kidding. You only need about .50-1.0mm protrusion of the tines on the exit hole. It also helps you from gorilla pounding the irons too deep. 

 

Repeated results. The French are some smart craftsman. No wonder Paris fashion is the thing. Anyone saying they don't like French irons because some guy on YouTube doesn't understand them. Is selling themselves short. 

It's all about the wedge. 

[toxo]

27 minutes ago, SUP said:

Oh. Okay. I'm lazy, I'm afraid. So I'll stick to the wax block until someone enterprising, like you () comes up with a good recipe for making that wax in a bottle and shares it.  However, if I don't use the wax block, I have the headache of needing to cut more splits, more frequently. Melting and hardening wax is infinitely easier than  doing that. It also is the safest for the tips of my chisels. I have never ever punched right through the wax block. 

Beginning to think you're winding me up SUP LOL. Not about punching through the wax. Get one of these bottles (cheap as chips). Take the top off, put wax inside, put in microwave for a few seconds, put top back on and run along the stitch line or groove. Simps.

[SUP]

 

1 hour ago, toxo said:

Beginning to think you're winding me up SUP LOL

Oops. You caught me. 

Good idea about the dropper bottle though. 

[Beehive]

Raises hand* 

 

Why is it red? (The needle bottle). And how thick is this leather to where it needs so much wax? Doesn't it make one hades of a mess? 

I'm not having any kind of that difficulty pulling irons out. 

[Beehive]

Today, my book cover is completed. I have to run 18" of stitch. Last time it took an hour and a half. So far, this cover has both .08mm thread and .04mm. The .08 is in Havana cigar. The .04 is red. 

 

After it's sewn. I'm going to break all the square edges with a Ron's Tools #1 edger. If you've ever wondered why a person would need a #1. I'm going to show you. 

[FrankHester]

17 minutes ago, Beehive said:

Today, my book cover is completed. I have to run 18" of stitch. Last time it took an hour and a half. So far, this cover has both .08mm thread and .04mm. The .08 is in Havana cigar. The .04 is red. 

 

After it's sewn. I'm going to break all the square edges with a Ron's Tools #1 edger. If you've ever wondered why a person would need a #1. I'm going to show you. 

I can't wait to see this! And the Ron's edger work.  I may have to get one myself.

[Beehive]

2 minutes ago, Herbie said:

I can't wait to see this! And the Ron's edger work.  I may have to get one myself.

 

If you buy the Ron's edgers. You're gonna need the whole set. The step up in sizes don't match with other makers. Ron's are standard sized and you really can't match it, trying to build a set that includes metric sizes. 

I bit the bullet and bought #1 to #5. I bought the #1, #2, and #4 to start. #3, and #5 are in the mail. That's if Toby the new owner has gotten the #3's back from heat treat. #3 seems to be a popular size. Back order type deal. 

 

$670 including shipping. That includes a #4 French skiver. I moved up from my own handmade tools. Of all the things to spend money on. I highly recommend the best you can get dealing with edgers.